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Showing posts with label Cedric Charlier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cedric Charlier. Show all posts

FANTASY AW13 SHOPPING AT MODA OPERANDI

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's now just over a week since the AW13 shows came to an end. That's a full 7 days we've had to compute the big trends, themes and major items which will feature on the fashion landscape in the next year or so. While the inevitable high street tributes could begin to pop up in as little as three or four weeks time, the designer collections won't be in store until July at the very earliest. Anyone who has avidly watched the season unfold, whether in person at the shows or via the magical internet might feel the itch to shop what they've seen but that tends to be tricky.

The final appointment on my LFW schedule was Ostwald Helgason, who brought their collection to London for the first time for a fun presentation at Kettners. They'll have their own dedicated post sometime soon. Anyway, I loved their stuff and soon found out that they'd be doing a trunk show on Moda Operandi a couple of weeks later. And so just before I left for Paris, I put in my order for an Ostwald Helgason jumper. It felt like fashion magic. Now, the people at MO inform me that their AW13 trunk shows are in full swing. Indeed, I logged on today and Nicholas Kirkwood, Roksanda Ilincic and Marni were just a smattering of the designers whose collections were on offer. Each trunk show lasts several days and lets you pre-order from most of the designer's collection, rather than being restricted to the buyer's picks. I like that for someone like me, for whom buying a designer piece is a financial stretch, you pay in two instalments, a deposit then the full amount once you receive your order.

In the pursuit of furthering my AW13 fashion fantasies, I've created my ideal shopping list from today's trunk shows....

Vogue Fashion Fund winner Nicholas Kirkwood is the Fairy Godfather of shoes. The embroidery on these heels is beautifully artisan but the plastic heel keeps them modern and sculptural. A perfect contrast.

Nicholas Kirkwood pumps 790 euros
The ultimate version of a luxe sweatshirt. I'm undecided about the morals of wearing sable on my chest but oh my, this Cedric Charlier jumper is a dream thing
Cedric Charlier jumper 1,290 euros
I have to admit that upon seeing Mary Katratzou's Autumn collection, it was difficult to imagine actually wearing any of it. Not that that is ever a bad thing as so many catwalk looks never get made, nor do many realise that most collections have an extensive commercial element which never hits the catwalk. This dress is one of those commercial pieces, isn't it lovely?

Mary Katrantzou Fauwi Babelonia dress 2,950 euros
A few AW13 collections used brown in such a way that made it almost tempting to me. The trim on this Pierre Hardy would be an ideal starting point, especially as it's set off with that awesome speckled monochrome print. 

Pierre Hardy bag 990 euros


As Melanie wrote in The Guardian last week, this was a huge season for coats. This fabulous, structured tweed Marni parka is right up my coat street.

Marni wool coat 2,290 euros
FYI, plaid and general checks are big news for AW13. This Clements Ribeiro knit is a nice subtle, modern way to do it rather than going for full-on McDonald tartan. Here ends the fantasy shopping. Back to real life.

Clements Ribeiro jumper 620 euros




POSTINGS FROM PARIS: CEDRIC CHARLIER, ONE TO WATCH

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Cedric Charlier SS13, complete with awesome make-up (including the legs) by Karim Rahman
When I was working out what I would do while I was in Paris, visiting Cedric Charlier's showroom was rather high on my list of priorities. He is one of France's most promising "young designers", though you realise that the definition of "young" is not really the same as it is in London where that term constitutes being a couple of seasons beyond graduation. Charlier's label is only in its second season but his CV shows a steady climb through the design ranks at Givenchy and Lanvin before becoming head of design at Cacharel for four seasons. AEFFE, the group which owns Cacharel as well as Moschino and Alberta  Ferretti, agreed to back Charlier's own label after he left Cacharel and so the fashion world was granted a fresh, new Parisian talent to get our hands on.


Charlier's SS13 collection is a super sleek combination of luxe pieces in bright white and the most, vivid awesome orange you could possibly imagine. It is actually quite blinding when you walk into the long, gallery-like showroom and there are rails of different riffs on essential yet fabulous staples- a great jumper, shift dresses, pencil skirts, shell tops- all rendered in those strong, strong hues with added zips and sharp folds and drapes. The orange apparently came from mercurochrome, something we don't see very much in the UK but widely used on the continent as a kind of liquid alternative to plasters. It's right up there with the most genius, obscure and tightly focused references cited by designers.




Interspersed with the orange and white is an abstract, hand painted print which is very fitting in the context of SS13's graphic, modern art theme. Charlier went to Japan to get started on the collection and there's definitely a hint of the oriental in the sweeping brush strokes and stark delineations. The biggest influence from Japan though was the idea of Samurai armour. Charlier did his thing and came up with his own version; "L'armure de Charme" (Charm armour) which translates to gorgeously cut, sexy, modern pieces. What's more, we're not taking thousands for a piece here, you can get your hands on a little bit of Charlier magic for well under £500. At the moment, the collection is only available on the brilliant Avenue 32 but Charlier's people tell me that it looks like it'll be coming to a London store soon. With plans for a bigger show further into Paris Fashion Week (he currently shows on the first day) next season, expect to see plenty more of Monsieur Charlier.



Such chic shoes


WATCH THE AWESOME MAKE-UP BEING DONE:


CHARLIER TO BUY NOW:

JUMPER £275 and GOLD SKIRT £325

PENCIL DRESS £530  and COLLAR £90
PENCIL DRESS £400

All catwalk images from Style.com

RESORT 2013 COLLECTIONS: THE BEST LOOKS

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I've been at Graduate Fashion Week in London on and off all week, and most inspiring and fascinating it is too, but I took some time out this afternoon to indulge in the hobby du jour for all professional fashion editors this week - namely viewing the Resort 2013 collections and deciding on the best new looks. With all the 'trashion' (my new favourite word) doing the rounds on pop stars, tacky TV folk and young girls about town, a jolt of real honest-to-goodness fashion refreshes my senses and restores my faith in style for style's sake. Here they are.

Stella McCartney

Nina Ricci

Valentino

Givenchy 

Givenchy

Cedric Charlier

Carven

Celine 

Acne

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