THE WEEK IN FASHION: AUGUST 29th-SEPTEMBER 2nd

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Hello there, fashion lovers and welcome once again to our weekly round-up of all the goings-on this week.

First up, this is practically ancient news now but Beyoncé is pregnant! She chose the VMA awards and a Dolce and Gabbana tuxedo to reveal the news. As her performance ended and she undid her jacket to show off her bump (encased in stretchy waistbanded trousers!), twitter records were broken with 8,900 tweets being posted per second.

Sequins and stretchy waitstband, oh the glamour (image from nymag.com)

While we're in congratulatory mood, we must mention the Venetian wedding of Sofia Coppola and Thomas Mars. The acclaimed director looked a vision of lilac loveliness in her Alaia dress- a lesson in offbeat bridal if ever there were one. 

Sofia Coppola with new husband Thomas Mars (Images from stylefrizz.com)

The cover of Dasha Zhukova's debut issue of Garage magazine (via The Guardian)

When launching a new magazine, one needs to get it talked about. Everyone knows that. However, in my memory no-one has done it quite like this before. The cover is a naked girl with a Damien Hirst butterfly sticker covering her parts.  "Peel slowly and see," reads the cover line. And when you do, there is her labia tattooed with a butterfly, its abdomen formed by her pudendal cleft," reported the Guardian today.

The Guardian continues: "Titled Butterfly Divided, it is one of a series of tattoos by famous artists (all men, sigh), including the Chapman Brothers and Jeff Koons, inked onto volunteers (Hirst's "canvas" is 23-year-old Londoner, Shauna Taylor). The works play on notions of who owns the art and what it's worth, while referencing tattooing's popularity reaching saturation point. Asked why she agreed to the tattoo, Taylor answered: "Not one single person can ever say they gave birth through a Damien Hirst piece of art. I can [if I ever give birth]." !!!!  Its not everyday you read a quote like that.

The real Wallis Simpson in the late 1930s

We tipped you off a little while ago about Wallis Simpson as a key style reference for FW11.Yesterday, Madonna's highly anticipated film exploring the life of the American socialite (played by Andrea Riseborough) had its premiere at the Venice Film Festival. While the film itself has received mixed reviews, the costumes, by Arianne Phillips, have been declared an indubitable success. Another very valid reason for a cinema trip is the appearence of James D'Arcy who cuts quite a dash as Edward. Madonna looked rather fab in her custom Vionnet gown, while Andrea was clearly so fed up of her Wallis look (close to the body, tailored, streamlined) that she decided to go for Princess-y froth in Dior couture. 

Andrea Riseborough in Dior (telegraph.co.uk)

Madonna in custom Vionnet with matchy sunnies. I love these colours (telegraph.co.uk)

As we gear up for the beginning of the Fashion Week season, we are happy to learn that Helmut Lang, purveyors of minimal luxe-grunge, are to show for the first time since 2007. Though we have to say, that just for minute there, we thought that the man himself Mr Helmut Lang, still one of the most influential designers that ever breathed despite the fact he retired to the Hamptons in 2005, was coming back to New York fashion week. That really would be something.

Anyway, the show will take place in New York on 10th September and will also be shown live on HelmutLang.com. In other New York Fashion Week related news, due to Hurricane Irene, Marc Jacobs has pushed back his show to 8.30pm on 15th September which is just hours before London kicks off. Not good for London Fashion Week at all. There are going to be some very jet-lagged fashion people zombie-ing about the first few days of London.

Helmut Lang Resort 2012 (Style.com)

Do you love Valentino? Do you love musicals? If the answer was yes to either of those then you will be happy to hear that there are plans for 'Valentino- The Musical', we kid you not! We thoroughly enjoyed the documentary, 'The Last Emperor' which followed the Italian design veteran in the lead-up to his retirement, but a musical? We are reserving judgement.

Valentino in publicity shots for The Last Emperor (Image from www.cbc.ca)

It's Friday and not so long since pay day, therefore there is no excuse not to pop into Topshop Oxford Circus to peruse Susie Lau's Edited selection which launches today. Her choices represent her personal highlights of Topshop's current offering and will be available for two weeks in the special Edited area of the store; a bit of a haven from the mad rush of frenzied shoppers. Topshop's Manchester store also has an Edited space so you can see Susie's picks if you're near there too. For an insight into her favourite books, music and some of the looks she has put together, take a look at Topshop's very own blog.

Susie Style Bubble modelling her Topshop Edited choices. Gorgeous! (Image courtesy of Topshop)

I'm currently on a bit of a roll with coffee table book buying, even though I don't have a coffee table.Anyway, Carine Roifeld's Irreverant is sure to  be an addition to the pile when it's released on October 18th. In the meantime, some teaser images have been released. It looks to us like this is an amalgamation of all Ms. Roitfeld's souvenirs and highlights from her time as Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue, an absolute treat for the those hungry for insider snippets from the closeted world of high fashion.

Dear Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Young Carine (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

 'The Great Gatsby' which is described by The Times on the back cover of my copy as 'a timeless evocation of the allure, corruption and carelessness of wealth', is having a bit of a moment. Kate Moss is known to be a great fan; her recent wedding took inspiration from the world depicted by F. Scott Fitzgerald. Next week, Baz Luhrmann will begin filming his version with a stellar cast including Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire and, reportedly, Gemma Ward. No doubt it will be a beauty with Kate Moss first in line to watch.

Robert Redford and Mia Farrow in The Great Gatsby film in 1974

And finally, we are still loving the Lanvin film we shared with you earlier in the week. By the looks of Twitter, many of you are a bit addicted too. Well, this film, The Wanderer, shot for Dior Homme by Willy Vandeperre is the antithesis, but just as worthy of a look. It's a bit dark, very atmospheric and very cool.

THE WEEK IN FASHION 15th-19th AUGUST

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

We've been having an exciting week here at Fashion Editor at Large; on Wednesday we were helping put the finishing touches to Mary Portas' fabulous new concept store in House of Fraser (a project which the FashEd has been very involved in. She is the genius behind 'armery'!). If you're anywhere near Oxford Street then take yourself to the orange lift from where you will be transported into a retail narnia where bellboys and brilliant stylists (passionate, enthusiaistic and knowledgable) will ensure a stress free shopping experience.

Mary with a member of her mannequin army (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Secondly, our #BRINGMCQUEENEXHIBITIONHOME campaign is really gaining momentum. This week GraziaDaily, Handbag , Evening Standard and The Guardian have all joined us on our mission. While from a personal perspective we might be gunning for this because of our love of great design and beautiful clothes, we passionately believe that this is an exhibition which is important for so many reasons besides that; Lee McQueen's story is an incredibly inspiring one given where he began, what he achieved and his path to those achievements.His legacy will form an integral part of the UK's cultural heritage for many, many years to come so it is only right that we begin as we mean to go on.

Rosamund Urwin's Evening Standard piece from Thursday.

This week, the Global Language Monitor has decided that London has taken over from New York as the world's fashion capital- tell us something we didn't know! This shift has been explained as a consequence of the Royal Wedding and Kate's extremely wise choice to commision Sarah Burton at McQueen to create her wedding dress. This fact really does make bringing the exhibition to London a complete no-brainer. As a graduate of Art History, and clearly someone whose first love is not cutting edge fashion, Kate is the perfect example of how McQueen resonates as a brilliant artist as well as fashion designer.

The eyes of the world on the Middletons in McQueen (Image from Zimbio.com)

Legendary Vogue and Harper's Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland is to be the subject of a book, a documentary AND an exhibition at Venice's Fortuny Museum. Vreeland is a standout figure from 60s and 70s, known for her very particular style and modus operandi. In the photo below, I can't help but think of Miuccia Prada and her banana earrings- I know Vreeland's jewellery is a shark's tooth, or similar, but the quirkiness is just as cool. We can't wait to absorb all we can from these upcoming Vreeland themed projects, in  the meantime, some rather brilliant quotes.

A style tip - 'I always wear my sweater back to front, it is so much more flattering'

On taste- 'I'm a great believer in vulgarity - if it's got vitality.  A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika.  We all need a splash of bad taste - it's hearty it's healthy, it's physical.  I think we could use more of it.  NO taste is what I'm against'

Vreeland, animated (image from nymag.com)

London College of Fashion represents yet another reason why our city fully deserves its global fashion capital status. So, we are thrilled that the College is to open a pop-up shop on Carnaby Street to coincide with London Fashion Week. Among the designers whose wares will be sold in the space are William Tempest, Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle and Hesan Hejazi. Opening night is on September 8th (Vogue's Fashion Night Out) and the shop will be part of the Carnaby Catwalk event on the 10th.

William Tempest's AW11, illustrated by Victoria Lyons (Image from thefashionscou.blogspot.com)

Nicholas Ghesquiere was interviewed this week by WWD. Bridget Foley's piece offers some particularly notable insights into the development of Balenciaga over the past few years- it seems models have had a lot to do with the label's direction. In fact, if it hadn't been for models spying the prototype of the now massively recognisable Lariat, then it may not ever have been produced on any great scale at all. Ghesquiere tells Foley that 'The handbag element was and is a great element of a growing business'. Balenciaga (as a business) had recognised this and the lariat was simply one of a number of potentials which had been dismissed. Until, that is,'every girl who was walking [the show], including Kate [Moss] came in and was like, ‘What is that? Is it vintage? Is it something that you found at the flea market?’ I was like ‘No, it’s a handbag that we prototyped but just didn’t produce.’

Image from allure-allure.blogspot.com

 Ghesquiere also credits Gisele with steering him away from crazy high heels and back to flats; 'I understood sometimes the pain on the feet... the idea was to have this crazy casting with Gisele and Amber Valleta and Carolyn [Murphy]. They were not used to walking with heels any more. Gisele was worried; she would not work with my heels' These comments are an invaluable insight into the power of the model to override, or drive the creative vision. Ghesquiere clearly believed that the models were more important to Balenciaga than the high heel. Maybe this is also about a woman's perspective though; Ghesquiere admits to exploring the house's archives and finding lots low-heeled shoes, he understood that these would be more comfortable for a woman to wear and such assumptions were confirmed by Gisele, and so the Balenciaga flat was re-born.

Gisele walking for Balenciaga SS11, in flats (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

 After the very exciting news that Isabel Marant is to open a store in London, we were also thrilled to hear that Helmut Lang is also getting in on the act with their biggest European store opening on Westbourne Grove on September 1st. A Helmut Lang shearling coat is top of my AW fantasy shopping list, as modelled by Saskia de Brauw.

Helmut Lang AW11 (Image from Style.com)

Finally, CONGRATULATIONS to Micheal Kors who married Lance Le Pere this week on a beach in New York state. Kors said 'To marry someone as wonderful and special to me as Lance barefoot on a glorious beach is more than I could have dreamed of''. I concur entirely, for I would also like to marry someone as beautiful as Lance, barefoot on a beach.

Lance and Michael (Image from WWD.com)

MY NEW FASHION WEEK UNIFORM (AND YOURS TOO!)

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

New York fashion week kicks off tomorrow, and London Fashion Week starts next friday... so it's time to work out the fashion uniform of the season. Knowledge is power! Having a uniform makes life so much easier too.

My favourite SS10 look from LA Label  L'Agence, available at Selfridges

They say that fashion changes and style stays the same. Well, that's not true. Fashion can change every week (I know this from working on Grazia, and this is what makes fashion fun).  What constitutes the very core of a stylish wardrobe changes too, just not as often.

For spring there has been a big style basics change. I am seeing it everywhere. Yes of course on fashion conscious women, but also on young girls shopping the high street and on the LA girls who love their casual elegance.

What has happened is, in one set of fashion collections, the former “essentials” of every girl’s wardrobe; namely the blazer, slim jean, basic legging, printed blouse, and statement dress have been replaced by a new set of loose, luxe easy to wear clothes that define a new body proportion. I can say this with authority because my fashion buyer friends agree with me – this is what they are buying for their shops!

"A couple of years back to satisfy demand I would have to buy at least five types of blazer, and at least ten styles of straight-leg dark denim jean," says a very influential buyer friend of mine. "Now it's a biker jacket hybrid, a draped loose jersey T-shirt, a luxury legging or legging jean, a short tunic dress and carrot leg trousers that I need to buy into in different ways," she said over lunch recently. You will already be vaguely familiar with the new style basics, now you just have to buy one or two to see what I mean. They will change the way you feel about the rest of your wardrobe, and give your fashion mojo a boost.

THE FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE TOP FIVE CORE STYLE ESSENTIALS FOR SS10

1. A drapey yet snug-fit washed leather jacket with biker details (see this one by one of my favourite labels right now Helmut Lang, from Matches) I tried this on last week, and knew in an instant that it would go with everything from a sexy dress to joggers to jeans, traveller pants (see tomorrows for these babies!!), leggings, and shorts. It's elegant, smart, louche but most of all uber chic, flattering and will serve as a staple for the next couple of years at least. 

2. Baggy trousers with slim-fit ankle, these ones cost £95 and are by Whistles. The tapered rolled-up ankle creates the illusion of a spindly ankle, and therefore of a slim body. Like!

This is my actual top, £25 from Cos, this is a khaki one and they come up over the wrist and you tuck your thumb in the cuff- also bought in black, white, grey

This black mesh tank £25 from COS pulls down to upper thigh and is an amazing layering piece (Also comes in pale nude) 

3. Good T-shirting.  For British readers may I reccomend COS. In the last week have bought ten t-shirts and five vests which am shaering with my other half. They are so useful, and worth every penny. My other preferred T-Shirt labels are Splendid, American Vintage and TopShop.

4. Luxury leggings. See the above from Les Chiffoniers at Matches. Don't need to explain the usefulness of these. These will not date like the printed ones that are around at the moment.

5. A peep toe ankle "boot". These ones are by ACNE, from Net-a-Porter. If you have an eye for fashion, you will NOT get through spring without getting a pair of something a bit like this on your tootsies. Trust!

and finally...a bit of mood

Unique by TopShop backstage shot from SS10

Think of this post as a cocktail, with five parts staples and one part frou-frou cocktail umbrella's, glace cherries and sparklers. To look Fashion Now get all of the above and mix it liberally with all the elements of the above photo!