J.CREW COMES TO LONDON: WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

In case you hadn't heard, J.Crew opened today on Regent Street. There was a big queue, a fancy party and a massive bunch of balloons to hail its much-anticipated arrival after years of being a kind of mythical style mecca to which anyone in-the-know flocked on touchdown in the US. It will be interesting to see how our collective J.Crew love evolves now that we are not in a long distance relationship, especially if you actually live in London. I doubt it'll be a reverse case of "absence makes the heart grow fonder" but it's almost certain that there will be far more conversations in which cooing over a particular garment  leads to a discovery that said item was picked up on the wearer's way home from work, IN J.Crew rather than "I saw something like it on the J.Crew site and got inspired and went and bought something like it in XXX". There are a few subtleties to J.Crew's UK arrival which I've been thinking about...

1. They are embracing Englishness

The magazine/ lookbook which has been produced in tandem with the UK round of shop openings features a very English country scene which, unusually for J.Crew, does not immediately scream "J.CREW". It actually looks more like a humble homage to the pastimes which J.Crew expects its new segment of UK customers will enjoy. This images feels to me like it is aimed at the people who aren't actually excited about the brand's arrival because they don't know it exists yet- shocking/ how is that possible, I know. These are the ones who will come in for armfuls of cashmere jumpers (if they deem it to be better than M&S's) and the preppier pieces. It will take them a long time to be converted to jazzy necklaces and sequin pencil skirts. This is the ultimate gently, gently image.

2. They are delivering impeccable service

When I went into the men's store when it opened on Lamb's Conduit Street a few weeks ago, they gave me a free umbrella, were friendly (but not too friendly) and stood back, making it feel like you could just browse in a shop which is really so tiny that it could be intimidating to go inside for fear that a shop assistant would be breathing down your neck the whole time. Impressive. This could be where J.Crew makes a real difference in the UK, blending the best of both service cultures.

3. They might be trying to evolve the classic Jenna Lyons look

Back to this lookbook and some of the images within are a real departure from the Jenna look which has been a huge part of putting J Crew on the fashion map. Some of the shirt collars are undone. Lips are bare, not red. There are no glasses. The brilliant outfit ideas are still there but I love that they are introducing J.Crew to the UK at this fresh level. It sort of feels new again.

4. They probably won't "change the high street".

There has been a lot of talk that the arrival of J.Crew might change the high street. This is probably not going to happen. The mid-market/ high street landscape is very different here to in the US and I think we like a store with a strong identity (see: COS, Topshop, Uniqlo, Whistles). J. Crew will bring something new to that mix but any influence their styling was going to have has probably been felt already.

And with that, I, along with countless others (probably) am finally off down to Regent Street.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: AUGUST 5th-9th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's been a good week for short hair, yay! It's all down to Beyonce who only has to post a photo or two on Instagram and the world goes absolutely mad for the idea of chopping all your hair off. Admitedly, if there were ever anyone who was going to convince you to part with your locks, Bey is the one and she does look stunning. If you fancy a drastic cut, then may I recommend Blue Tit. I got a great 'do in their Dalston salon last week by Pont. Last night, they opened up in Peckham too which you will of course be aware in the new Dalston.

Beyonce goes short (via Instagram)

The latest crop of Brit talent is fast-becoming world-renowned, competing with the designer big guns. There have been investments, collaborations and ever more elaborate catwalk shows but what we need now is shops. It seems they could be on their way. Reports this week suggest that Victoria Beckham, Roksanda Ilincic and Christopher Kane might all be opening soon. Kane is looking, Beckham is "discussing" and Ilincic could be moving to Mount Street.

Rachel McAdams wearing futuristic Roksanda Ilincic this week (via uk.lifestyle.yahoo.com)

Speaking of store openings, J.Crew have announced two further London stores in addition to the Regent Street London flagship which looks like it'll open its doors at the start of November. There will be a dedicated menswear shop on Lamb's Conduit street where we can sate cravings for oversized cashmere jumpers from October 10th, though focus will be on shirts, curated guest labels and monogramming. A Brompton Cross space will house limited pieces from the J.Crew Collection plus a selection of brands including Penelope Chilvers and Comme des Garcons. Bring on Autumn and get in the mood by reading Avril Mair's interview with Jenna Lyons in this month's Harper's Bazaar.

From November we can all look like this. Maybe (via peepmystyles.com)

Racism in fashion. An issue which definitely exists but doesn't get talked about nearly enough. Eric Wilson wrote a brilliant, incisive piece examining the situation state side, including interviews with key casting directors and members of the fashion industry who feel like they have been victims of racist treatment. A must-read. Wilson's article comes in conjunction with Oprah Winfrey discussing racist treatment she suffered during a recent trip to Switzerland. Winfrey, one of the world's richest women, told how she was informed that a bag she had asked to see in Swiss boutique Trois Pommes would be "too expensive" for her.

Oprah (via money.cnn.com)

John Galliano may or may not be getting a permanent job at Oscar de la Renta. "We would love to find  a way to work with him" said Alex Bolen, CEO at de la Renta. Watch this space.


The really sad news about two volunteers in Zanzibar being attacked with acid brought back my own memories of going to Tanzania and Zanzibar for a summer a few years ago. I loved it and really hope this doesn't put anyone off going because the place is beautiful and the people kind and funny. While we were there, we took full advantage of the street side tailors who would run you up a made-to-measure skirt in a wonderful print. I wish I'd known about them before going so I could have taken full advantage of their skill. Afua Hirsch's wonderful column about a similar practice in Ghana cleverly hits on the utter genius of having clothes "made to fit our bodies".

Tailoring at work in Ghana (via fashionghana.com)

"Little Black Dress" sounds like an exhibition worth booking a trip to Paris for. It's on until September 22nd so if you're off to the city of light before then, be sure to make time for it. Whet your fashion appetite (or make up for a missed opportunity) by reading Suzy Menkes' look at the many guises of the item every girl and woman needs in her wardrobe.

The most famous LBD ever. Hepburn as Golightly in Givenchy (via weddingstylefileblog.com)

The recent revival in Punk has clearly been good for Dr Martens. It's reminded us about the stompy boots which have become symbols of rebellion and strength since the first pair were made in 1960. If there was one shoe to define the social change which has taken place over the past 50 years it would surely be these? The brand has capitalised on this sentiment for their new campaign which features 13 proud wearers of DMs. They've made this very cool film which makes you feel like you should really get something done this weekend...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 20th-24th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Everything you need to know about the week in fashion is within this blog post. Read, know, then go bank holiday weekend your socks off...

Jenna Lyons (image via tumblr.com)

It's seems like it's been a long time coming, but J.Crew has finally hit British shores this week. For today and tomorrow (Friday/ Saturday), the fashionably preppy US label is hosting a pop-up in a rather fabulous converted shed/ stables at Central Saint Martin's. Jenna Lyons, J.Crew's President and Artistic Director, is in town and used the opportunity to announce that J.Crew will be sponsoring a scholarship for CSM MA students. I popped along yesterday to the pop-up shop where you can get J.Crew's famous cashmere jumpers monogrammed and buy a jewelled collar especially designed for the London pop-up by the J.Crew design crew. A permanent shop is due to open on Regent Street in November.

Visit J Crew's pop-up at CSM by getting yourself to King's Cross Tube, and follow the arrows.

J Crew pop up via J Crew Instagram

One of my personal favourite collars from the J Crew pop-up

The BFC this week announced three new menswear designers to join the NEWGEN cohort in time for London Collections:Mens which is taking place in June. Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen and Nasir Mazhar will get the backing of the BFC to show and sell their collections during the men's shows next month.

Agi and Sam did an inspired AW13 show in which they took the Marquess of Bath as muse. (catwalking.com)

Fabulous purple/ florals/ streetwear at Astrid Andersen AW13 (catwalking.com)

Nasir Mazhar AW13 (fashion156.com)

Issa, the label favoured by the Middleton sisters and friends, announced last week that founder and creative director Daniela Helayel is leaving. Blue Farrier has been appointed to take over. Farrier has great fashion pedigree, having worked at Stella McCartney and Chloe. Issa is particularly well-known for its flattering wrap dresses- Kate Middleton wore a blue one to match her engagement ring when she and Prince William announced that they would be getting married.

The new Givenchy AW13 campaign has been styled by none other than Carine Roitfeld. She cast Amanda Seyfried and up-and-coming Spanish model Dalianah Arekion in the rather subdued black and white images. It seems that Roitfeld also couldn't resist shooting herself, with daughter Julia, as well.

Amanda and Dalianah in Givenchy AW13 (via wwd.com)

Carine and Julia via Michel Gaubert on Instagram

At Issa's latest LFW show for AW13, models wore gimicky polo necks with hoods attached. Here's hoping Farrier might have a transformative magic touch.

Ugh. Issa W13 (catwalking.com)

Fendi will hold a special photography exhibition during July's Paris couture shows. As part of its pledge to help save the Trevi Fountain, images taken by Karl Lagerfeld (Fendi Creative Director, and you know the rest) will be on display. There will also be a 120-page book published to accompany the exhibition. Another clever high fashion initiative to make the public feel involved in the very exclusive round of couture shows.

Congratulations to Tatty Devine, The Cambridge Satchel Company, Harris Tweeds and Christopher Raeburn who were among the winners at last night's UK Fashion and Textiles Awards. Go Made in Britain!

Tatty Devine's award. As tweeted by co-founder Rosie Wolfenden.

Skate culture has been permeating fashion for a while now and it seems to be reaching a peak, especially with Yasmin Sewell's Beach in the East pop-up, inspired by Dogtown and the Z-Boys. The Guardian brought all the references together very nicely this week. Dazed Digital have done a great piece on the fight to save the Southbank undercroft. And if you have time for a fascinating long read this weekend, then may I suggest this on what happened to the stars of Kids.

Skating at Southbank. Image by Sophie Wedgewood via dazeddigital.com

Browsing in Browns Focus the other day, I was particularly drawn to a very sweet Olympia Le-Tan doodled cotton body suit. Le-Tan is, of course, most famous for her embroidered book cover clutch bags. It turns out that Olympia is sister of Cleo, a French novelist and daughter of Pierre, a highly respected illustrator. If you're anything like me and enjoy being nosy about these fabulous kinds of families, then you should read The Daily Beast's interview with Cleo Le-Tan.

Cleo and Olympia Le-Tan (via thedailybeast.com)

Finally, Cannes is STILL going on. In fact, it's been going on so long now that jewellery thieves have managed to strike twice. Yesterday, a £1.7m necklace from jewellers Di Grisogono went missing, despite the fact it was being heavily guarded at a chateau party. My four favourite stories from the festival this week are:

Nicole Kidman potentially wearing the Valentino dress which Anna Hathaway ditched for the Oscars at the lat minute.

Jessica Chastain wearing Spanx dyed vivid purple to match her Givenchy Couture dress.

And a Psy impostor gatecrashing loads of great parties and fooling celebrities.

Last night, the super, duper glamourous AMFAR gala, held to raise funds for AIDS, took place in Cannes. Carine Roitfeld was in charge this year and organised "The Ultimate Gold Collection" fashion show which was crammed full of specially created gold creations by the world's best designers. To round off The Week in Fashion, here are some of the shiniest looks of the night, as modelled by some of Carine's nearest and dearest, of course. Sun, take note. 

Giovanna Battaglia in Miu Miu (via vogue.co.uk) 

Joan Smalls in Givenchy (via vogue.co.uk) 

Anna dello Russo in Pucci (via vogue.co.uk)

Irina Shayk in Prada (via Vogue.co.uk)

Carine's daughter, Julia Restoin Roitfeld in Valentino (via vogue.co.uk)