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Showing posts with label jw anderson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jw anderson. Show all posts

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN'S… BOYS CLOTHES FOR GIRLS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

"Since women borrow from men's wardrobes all the time, that men should borrow from women is, arguably a trend overdue", so wrote one of my favourite fashion writers, Laura Craik, of Burberry's AW14 menswear show in The Times. It's a brilliant observation and one that is particularly fitting in a week when it was not just Burberry silken scarves repping womenswear on the men's catwalks. There were also dresses (long and kaftan-like) at Christopher Shannon and Craig Green plus handbags and high heels at J.W Anderson. Aside from these obviously "feminine" style references though, there were so many clothes on show at LC:M which would make a woman just as happy as a man that it sort-of became the week in which girls-wanted-clothes-made-for-boys-inspired-by-girls. It's enough to make you think that there will surely be some point in the future when fashion is whatever sex you want it to be. In tribute to this, here are seven of my favourite looks from LC:M chosen because they would look gorgeous no matter what your sex.

1. E.TAUTZ

Incredible coat and genius copper/ red sheen combo.


2. JONATHAN SAUNDERS

A cricket jumper for winter and jazzy trousers


3. RICHARD NICOLL

Untucked shirt = way to break up the polish. Lovely shade of pink on the trouser stripe.


4. AGI & SAM

What a chic suit! Especially the flared crop of the trousers.


5. SIBLING

This year's Christmas jumper sorted already


6. NICOMEDE TALAVERA

Sporty, sci-fi sharpness from the Fashion East newbie.


7. J.W ANDERSON

Scruffed up sleeves and giant bangles look like a modern kind of elegant. Bag is very Celine.


FASHION REFERENCE OF THE DAY: MOPS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large
Vileda supermops. In fashion?
"Humdrum domestic world of wipe-clean tablecloths, abandoned takeaway boxes and vileda supermops" read J.W Anderson's SS14 press release. Those references seemed so singular that surely no other designer could match them? A quick flick through the latest pictures from Paris shows that this mop reference is alive and well however. On the Rochas catwalk this afternoon, Marco Zanini showed shoes which would easily double as cleaning implements, as observed by Eric Wilson.


These shoes are like Swiffers for your feet. At Rochas.

Rochas mop shoes (image via @ericwilsonNYT)
Are we entering a new functional era of fashion? I, for one, am looking forward to seeing an outfit entirely fashioned from mops at some point very soon. A challenge for the DIY-ers and customisers amongst you.

J.W Anderson SS14

Wipe-clean plus mop feet at Rochas SS14 (via style.com)
Wearable Swiffers 



JW ANDERSON & AMANDA HARLECH TALK COLLABORATION

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

When this beautifully-made video landed in our inbox this morning, it was an instantly calming antidote to pre-LFW jitters and tasks. Commisioned by The London EDITION (new hotel launching soon) and Nowness magazine, the film sees Amanda Harlech and JW Anderson serenely lazing in the grounds of the former's Shropshire pile, having a chat about collaborating which takes the notion above and beyond the almost ceaseless collabs which are now such a big part of the fashion industry. Make a cup of tea and take three minutes to float away on a Harlech/ Anderson cloud...

On Collaboration: Amanda Harlech x Jonathan Anderson on Nowness.com

JW ANDERSON MEN'S AW13: FIVE THINGS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large


London's menswear shows are getting into a groove now, this being the second season that they've had their very own dedicated schedule spanning three days. I've dipped my toe in the water today, starting out with JW Anderson's show this morning. Every J-Dubz- as Jonathan's label is affectionately known- offering comes as an exploration of some intellectual concept which often seems to me like it may be more at home in the studies of the lecturers who took me through my English degree than on a catwalk. That's not to say that it doesn't eventually work to study through clothes rather words, a practise which Jonathan has pretty much mastered (although it must be said that he also gets it bang-on with pieces you want to wear every day- see his Topshop collab). However, it does mean that the collection is challenging. For most of us that means an exciting new thing to get our heads around, something fresh for the eye to adjust to, far removed from our accepted concepts of what is or is not "stylish" or "acceptable". When Vogue's Fashion Editor Fran Burns tweeted some pictures from the show, she received a few spiky replies including "Sorry but even wide-eyed fashion followers will find this ugly". Her retort? " Keep your knickers on people! Fashion is an expressive art form". With that in mind, I've boiled down the show to the five key points to really get to grips with.

#1. KINKY ACCESSORIES

Kinky may well be the wrong word to use here because it's not as if looks were littered with whips and harnesses but there was something subtly fetishistic about the flounce-edged black leather riding boots and bright white latex gloves which seemed like a mad concoction of washing up, magician and Michael Jackson references. The boots were not the only point of leg interest as many looks featured such short lengths that acres of thigh were still on show. That combination of thigh and tough black leather gave the boys a very vampy vibe.




#2. SHOW NOTES WITH MEANING

I'm a little obsessed with show notes and the myriad of ways designers choose to introduce their collections. Here are what we got to read (all in caps) as we sat down this morning:

"THE J.W.ANDERSON AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 COLLECTION IS AN EXAMINATION OF BOURGEOIS KINKYNESS AND BOUDOIR PERVERSITY. IT EXPLORES THE SELFISH ACT OF RESHUFFLING THE NOTION OF ANATOMY AND CREATING SUSPENDED ARCHITECTURES. THE WARDROBE BECOMES A PROJECTION OF THE MIND ONTO A WHITE CANVAS"

#3. BOYS IN SKIRTS AND BOOB TUBES

Unisex fashion is very often more about girls dressing in boyish clothes than boys dressing in girly clothes- masculine tailoring is an oft used expression in women's fashion writing but when do you ever find GQ singing the praises of feminine florals, for example, for men to give a try? J.W Anderson is very much interested in blurring gender in fashion but he dares do it the other way, enter boys in skirts, dresses and boob tubes. And some of those guys look disconcertingly great.


#4. THE HAIR

Talk about Slick Rick. The models had severe forehead to neck nape partings. I may be reading too much into it but from the front these could almost pass as ladies low ponytails, there we are, challenged once more.




#5. THE PIECES YOU CAN REALLY WEAR

It's not all about conceptual pushing the boundaries. J.W Anderson AW13 has perfect coats, jumpers, trousers... for boys and girls.









SAMPLE SALES GALORE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Yeh, yeh we should be spending money on socks for our Dads, nice smelling things for our Grannies etc. etc. but when they were scheduling Christmas, did no one ever think that this is the time of year when we want to be splashing our cash at designer sample sales? There are some real goodies on the horizon. Here are the details. Just don't blame us when you have nothing to put under the tree on Christmas day. At least you'll be wearing bargainous beautiful fashion...

ERDEM- Womenswear, Shoes and Accessories

Cash and Credit Card

Tuesday 4th December 8.30am – 8.00pm
Wednesday 5th December 8.30am – 5.00pm

The Future Gallery
5 Great Newport Street
London
WC2H 7HY

CHRISTOPHER KANE- Womenswear & Accessories from SS10 to SS12. Prices starting at £10.

Friday 30th November 12.30 – 8.00pm

The Mercer Street Studios
16 Mercer Street
WC2H 9QE




 J.W.ANDERSON- Womenswear, Menswear, Shoes & Accessories

Friday 30th November 4.00 – 8.00pm

37-75 Shacklewell Lane
Lighthouse Studios
Dalston
London
E8 2EB



LFW SS13: FIVE OBSESSIONS AT J.W ANDERSON

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

J.W Anderson has been one of the most talked about designers in the run up to this London Fashion Week, judging by my Twitter feed and overhearings. That's because on the first morning of shows, his collaboration with Topshop hit stores and coaxed fashion editors away from LFW prep to a land of pinafore dresses, penny loafers, bat pattern jumpers and J-Dubz pencils. Consequently the Toppers collection was playing a starring role on last night's F-ROW as everyone waited to see what one of LFW's most intellectual, rigorous and unpredictable designers would do next.

Jonathan had created a "Treatment Room"; a place where he had played with fabric, texture, silhouette, in response to "a personal urgency to strip back fashion to garments with an edge". That quote tells me that this was all about taking the fundamentals and playing around with them, embellishing them with a J.W flourish. So, what got me ticking?

1. ADDED FRILLS





2. FINGERPRINT PRINTS



3. THE BAGS



4. THE BOOTS


5. LOOK 21

Reason- the colour of this jacket is just phenomenal, plus I love that the model is Zen formerly known as Kate.



Image from Vogue.com

IRISH DESIGNERS CREATE: J.W ANDERSON HITS DUBLIN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

 I've just got back from a blissful week in Ireland where I did virtually nothing fashion related- my days were filled with swimming in the freezing Irish sea, scrambling up a mountain or two in County Wicklow and fulfilling a long-held ambition to see the super dapper Oscar Wilde sculpture in Merrion Square, Dublin which wears a rather fabulous smoking jacket crafted from jade green and ruby red stone which I'm sure would get the seal of approval from the aesthete himself. On my travels, I did manage to pop into Brown Thomas, the department store which is to Ireland what Harvey Nichols is to Britain and most lately famous as the location Harper Beckham chose to take her first steps in public. I thought it was brilliant and could have spent far longer in there than my fidgety boyfriend allowed.

Irish designers on show at Brown Thomas until 9th September (image from irishtimes.com)

Today is time to get to get back to reality but my "Back to School" feeling was interrupted by tweets from J.W Anderson who is in Dublin to launch this year's Irish Designers Create project which sees a mix of Eire's finest emerging and established fashion designers taking over an area in Brown Thomas in a bid to promote Irish design talent. Mr J- Dubz (originally from Derry) is the biggest Irish name buzzing in fashion right now, but back in the day he worked on the Brown Thomas shop floor to earn his pennies while he was studying. He obviously still has a special place in his heart for Brown Thomas as he tweeted "Obsessed with @brownthomas the store is on another level so modern so sharp.❤❤❤".

J.W Anderson at Brown Thomas this morning (via @LauraJDwyer)
J.W Anderson jumpers in Brown Thomas today(from http://thegloss.posterous.com/full-circle)
Shelley Corkery is Brown Thomas' Fashion Director and came up with the initiative to promote Irish design in this way last year, when the first Create project took place. She describes the "incredible synergy" of exciting talent and one of Ireland's best loved retailers. From now until 9th September, the first floor of the Dublin store (there are also branches in Cork, Limerick and Galway) will become a hub for discovering the likes of Sorcha O'Raghallaigh, who has created numerous outfits for Lady Gaga including that madcap wedding dress which she wore on the Graham Norton show, and Riona Treacy, whose embroidery work featured in Alexander McQueen's final collection. There is also gorgeous looking knitwear from Lisa Shawgi and witty digital printed silks from Natalie B Coleman.

So if you're a week behind me and anywhere close to Dublin over the next week or so then get yourself  to Brown Thomas to discover the great and good of Irish design.

Sorcha O' Raghallaigh with looks from her collection "The world forgetting by the world" which was inspired by the film The Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind and the Day of the Dead festival (image courtesy of Brown Thomas)
Lady Gaga wearing a Miss Havisham-esque wedding dress created for her by Sorcha O'Raghallaigh (gagafashionland.com)
Riona Treacy's form flattering prints are also part of the Irish Designers Create initiative (image from www.BrownThomas.com)
See here for the full list of designers and more info

BRITAIN'S FASHIONISTAS ARE WEARING... PYJAMAS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Ben Whishaw as Sebastian Flyte in Brideshead Revisted
Here at FEAL, we don't usually say too much about menswear. But when John Lewis told us that their sales of 'dapper robes' were up by 91% in the men's department, our ears pricked up.I thought it was only girls who watched Downton Abbey, but John Lewis seem sure that the rise is a result of men wanting to emulate Lord Grantham's stately bedroom attire. Are the men of Great Britain going home and pretending to be turn-of-the century aristocrats? I certainly haven't seen any evidence of them wearing their new robes out and about, have you?
As Lord Grantham gets a bit too close to maid Jane, we get a good peek of his bedroom robe (image from itv/ mirror.co.uk)
Oscar Wilde posing in his smoking jacket (image from thisislondon.com)
I don't think Downton is where it all began though; I've been slightly obsessed with the 1981 series of Brideshead Revisited for years now and I studied Oscar Wilde at university. Recently, I've seen all these used as references for various microtrends such as the pyjama suit and the dandy slipper. Penelope Chilvers has even launched a bespoke service which lets you design your very own Dandy slipper.


It doesn't get more Dandy than Ralph Lauren's purple tasseled slippers
This pyjama/slipper combination feels luxurious and exotic- see the above still from the 2008 film version of Brideshead Revisited which is all about a louche and priviliged life where one really can recline in pyjamas all day long.  This is why I think there's more to this than wanting to be like Downton's main man. Although, as we're talking about John Lewis here, perhaps this is more of an older man buying into the Lord of the Manor lifestyle represented by Hugh Bonneville's Lord Grantham. Although he's loveable in his own way, he doesn't have that foppish air of extravagance and wealth which Oscar Wilde and Sebastian Flyte possess.
JW Anderson AW11 - Francesca Burns & Emma Elwick of British Vogue both have this pyjama suit by Jonathan Anderson, and have even been seen wearing them together
Louis Vuitton Resort 2012. You can buy this from November 21st. Top £700 and trousers £550
For us girls, pyjamas are a trend which is going to get hard to avoid. John Lewis say that we're already coming round to it, with sales of the 'luxurious nightwear' up by more than 200%. But it's the crossover to seeing pyjamas as daywear options which is really telling. J.W Anderson has already done some highly lustworthy day time paisley pyjamas for AW11. The Great Gatsby inspired Sofia Coppola and Marc Jacobs' collaboration for Louis Vuitton's Resort 2012. Once the SS12 shows came around, barely a show went by without some evidence of gentleman's silks and easy pyjama suits; Equipment's will be amazing (aforementioned on this blog). The High Street has already been offering mannish silky shirts and, in some cases, matching silky pyjama bottoms and palazzo pants. By next spring this will be a huge fashion thang, so you may as well be ahead of the curve and get into it now. So while all the boys are hiding inside, playing at being Dukes and Lords, it seems inevitable that the ladies will be out and about showing off their take on pyjamas as fashionable daywear.

Alexa Chung has included a pyjama suit in her new and rather good collection for American brand Madewell. Alexa's dandy silk Valentine pyjama is dotted with palm tree silhouettes; a New York Post writer was so enamoured of them,she wore them for a day out in Manhattan and wrote about it.



Derek Rose, purveyors of luxury pyjamas, have a few styles which could work well as daywear options...
Very Art Deco- the Leila Blue£109.99

Modern Paisley- the Nelson Silver £109.99
NOW FOR SS12

Stella McCartney's paisley pyjama for SS12

Close up of Stella McCartney paisley

Close up of Stella Mccartney foulard silk, the main motif of her collection

Paul Smith SS12

J. W Anderson's paisley suit for SS12

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large, catwalking.com
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