SHOW AND TELL: TOPSHOP AW12

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Every time I enter Topshop Oxford Circus, my heart flutters a little, well quite a lot actually. This is because Topshop was the first place I got properly excited about clothes, a place I could go and drown entirely in the possibilities and options calling out to me across those three huge floors. Autumn/Winter 2012, and this summer for that matter, are going to be seasons to get really excited about a trip to Topshop. In fact, those of us lucky enough to go to the Unique show during February's LFW have been in a thrall since we saw the luxe military, shearling and bomber coats parading past us as part of former Vogue Fashion Director Kate Phelan's first collection as Creative Director.

I went along to Topshop's press day this morning where I heard plenty of fashion press discussing which jumper/ coat/ trouser they'd be ordering.

The neckline on this red crosses jumper is going to look bang on for AW12.

Melanie is ordering one of these

That low polo neck again, this time sportier. I wanted to wrap myself up in this quilted, animal-y jumper.



One of the best things about the Unique collection is the heavy, layered up theme which runs through. It makes it look and feel properly high end.

Melanie's favourite bomber, she wants the coat version too (greedy girl)

My personal favourite- zippy shearling...

Double breasted bomber.... Genius. 

AND there were highly covetable accessories...

It wasn't just the Unique collection on show today. Richard Nicoll has worked with Topshop on a small collection of bridal wear which is going to launch in June. There are no pics allowed yet, but expect baby doll and nightie shapes in wedding white as well as sweet pastels. A very refreshing alternative to frou frou frothiness and really rather bargainous at around £300.

Next Friday sees the launch of Maarten Van Der Horst's collaboration. If you like the Fashion East designer's Hawaiian shirt spin offs and bright colours then you'll love the Topshop line. I've got my eye on the tailored Bermuda shorts. Alex Fury wrote all about the trend for Hawaiian prints in last Sunday's Indy.

Finally, if you're still searching for perfect pyjama then never fear, Boutique is coming to the rescue. I immediately made a mental shopping list for the red overblown paisley print tee and shorts which will hit stores in May.  Oh Topshop, you do spoil us. 

All images by Fashion Junior at Large

SHOW + TELL: SOPHIE HULME

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large 

The first time I met Sophie Hulme in person was last September at London Fashion Week when I stumbled across the young designer with her Spring/Summer 2012 collection in the Elle Talent Launch Pad exhibition at Somerset House. It was quite weird because only the week before that I was standing in Selfridges' enormous bag hall looking at a large and prominent display of Sophie Hulme luxury leather tote bags thinking "Who this is this Sophie Hulme person?" From the way Selfridges bought into her label and showed it off right next to the hallowed Celine area, the Hulme brand seemed fully formed and in full flight mode. 

Then I dimly remembered, is this the same Sophie who graduated from Kingston back in 2007? I remember a Sophie Hulme who won Student of the Year, so I Googled around a bit and it was the same girl. She also won Student Collection of the Year in 2007, so a bit of a prodigy girl then. Turns out Sophie set up her label two months after graduating and has been quietly getting on with building her brand ever since. 

Her trademarks are clean, tailored silhouettes with masculine and feminine influences, with an emphasis on chunky hardware and almost childlike detailing; and as such the designer is building quite a solid business almost under the nose of the talent watchers of London.  At London Fashion Week in February Sophie did her first mini fashion showcase, sending out the models dressed in her modern young elegant ensembles every 15 minutes. The show was mobbed, and the whole thing was so overwhelming for Sophie, that by the time I caught up with her, she had cried most of her mascara off. This week she joined My-Wardrobe.com as one of their new roster of designers. I wanted to share my images of her show, and her gorgeous bags on My Wardrobe now. There'll be a second blog post very soon with a full Sophie interview.

Sophie Hulme embroidered bag £370 at My-Wardrobe

Sophie Hulme stamped tote £620

The brilliant Sophie Hulme whose LFW presentation was a highlight of the week

Sophie Hulme leather tote £535 at My-Wardrobe

LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: MATTHEW MILLER - iFASHION

(Josh interned with FEAL over London Fashion Week, and here are his final two Mens Fashion Week reviews)

Guest Post by Joshua Drew of Noir Official

Matthew Miller is a new name on the London menswear scene. The introduction of this Royal College of Art MA Graduate to the schedule this year saw his first standalone show presented at the Portico Rooms of Somerset House.

Having previously presented as part of Fashion East, Miller has demonstrated his interest in combining technology with great menswear design. This season he fused the two in a collection entitled 'Expedition'. 

Matthew Miller AW12

 City Perforation work was one of the surfaces which inspired Miller's collection

iPhone QR barcodes were available to scan during the show. When scanned we were able to retrace Miller’s steps around London. These codes took us to webpages showing the exact location of each individual print and the building, object or landscape it was taken from. Prints inspired by everyday surfaces that we might not usually give a second thought to were transformed into eye-catching macs, single-breasted jackets and slim fit trousers.

Miller's combination of savvy digital tools and fashion is truly innovative. His interest in combining technology and design not only translated his ideas quite literally, but also interactively to the audience. The way that Miller embraces the opportunities offered by the likes of the iPhone shows a fresh attitude to showing fashion which moves with a phenomenon which influences every aspect of our lives. His example shows how fashion can take full advantage of up to the minute technology to enhance the experience of viewing a collection. 

Tree bark found in Hyde Park inspired single-breasted jackets and shirts. 

Surfaces such as concrete, bark, chip board (which Miller had spotted covering shop windows during the August riots) and eroding marble were all used to represent the textures of London. As an intrepid explorer, Miller’s man also needed some sturdy footwear. In collaboration with Oliver Sweeney, the London inspired prints were transferred onto boots.

Matthew Miller AW12

Matthew Miller still has room to grow, but the ambition this new London designer is showing in combining technology and functional fashion leaves me interested to know what direction he'll be taking next season. 

LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: JAMES LONG, ALL IN THE DETAIL

Guest post by Joshua  Drew, from Noir

The finale at James Long AW12

After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2007, James Long debuted his collection at MAN, a Topman sponsored platform, that same year. His own label has since gone from strength to strength and Long has become the first menswear designer to receive an award from Fashion Forward (a growing scheme funding selected new design talent in London).  He also has lucrative consultancy work with Versace. What’s most exciting, however, is how well James Long combines his creativity with a knowledge of what his customer wants (and needs). 

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Inspired by surrealist film maker David Lynch and the scars excavated quarries leave on the face of the earth, Long demonstrated focus on detail through intricate and unusual embroidery for his AW12 offering. Collars were adorned with gold work by British embroidery company Hawthorne & Heaney and the final product proved just why James Long is credited for being innovative without forgetting the necessity for wearability. Garments weren't overly conceptual, and even if you can't quite see yourself in an embroidered shirt, the cut was undeniably sleek. Sartorial elements were taken and translated into a language that spoke clearly to a younger audience.

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Edward Burtynsky's photography on quarries. 

Outerwear came in the form of aviator jackets, some with quilted leather, others with shearling trims. But what really took my breath away this season was James Long’s knitwear. He has always been honest about his passion for creating great knits for men. The mix of gold thread with wool brought the excavated quarry inspiration into sharp focus. Every man should have a James Long jumper. The use of gold thread was minimal enough to speak to the man who appreciates detail, without alienating those for whom a full on gold jumper is a fashion leap too far. James Long may very well have his ideal man firmly in his head, but elements of his collections are opening up to not just one man, but many men. Personally, I would like one of everything please!

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S DAY: J.W ANDERSON AW12 - AN ISOLATED MAN

Note from Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Recent journalism graduate Joshua Drew has been interning with us at FEAL for the last fortnight, and in that time his flair and passion for menswear has been so infectious, I just had to assign him the task of covering Men's Fashion Day in London on Wednesday. So while I was in the recovery position following London Fashion Week, Mr. Drew hit town.

Guest Post for Fashion Editor at Large by Joshua Drew 

J.W Anderson fuelled the fire of menswear on Wednesday, and boy was it a scorcher!  As the first menswear designer to showcase his new collection, entitled ‘Chamber of Isolation’, the venue was claustrophobic to the backdrop of heavy industrial beats. A spooky start to a theatrical collection. Fitting considering Anderson’s background in theatre.

A fitting venue for a show entitled 'Chamber of Isolation' in the old Central St Martins building. 

If the music didn’t have you shaking in your boots then you were most certainly moonwalking, as footwear, in collaboration with Aldo Rise, came in white or black leather mixed with plaid wool. Trousers came in the form of flares, a trippy throwback to the 80s with zip detailing, a theme throughout menswear which we’re loving this season.

J.W Anderson AW12  (photos: catwalking.com)

“I keep asking myself, does menswear exist anymore?” said Anderson in typically rhetorical form backstage. “Everything seems so sartorial nowadays. Menswear is dry. It needs a certain awkwardness about it.” Anderson seemed like just the right candidate to shake things up a little. His gender bending designs steered far away from any sartorial references and instead injected quilted skirts over leather flares. Potentially not every man's dream wardrobe staple and not a new concept for Anderson. Yet it was his knitwear pieces with their rope detail embellishment which proved most wearable this season. You wouldn't have to be a typical Anderson man to pull off one of these statement items.

J.W Anderson AW12 (photo: catwalking.com)

Inspired by the idea of bad taste and good taste he certainly left his collection open to criticism.  His man was futuristic, moody and isolated. Yet Anderson, true to form, struck a confident and rebellious collection. Who doesn’t love a rebel? 

(Photo: Fashion Editor at Large)

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S DAY: CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AW12- AN EVERYDAY MAN

Guest post for Fashion Editor at Large by Joshua Drew

Christopher Shannon AW12 (photo: catwalking.com)

Receiving the NEWGEN MEN sponsorship in just 2010 Christopher Shannon has propelled his label to new heights in only a matter of years. This Central Saint Martins graduate should be hanging up in every man’s wardrobe by next season, and you don’t even need to be a fashion frenzied animal to adorn a collection suited for you, me, them and us.

His collection shown Wednesday was inspired by Matthieu Kassovitz's gritty 1995 film La Haine, and Sinèad O’Connor. An unlikely blend that worked by making icons of key pieces in the Shannon wardrobe, namely easy to wear pieces such as Harrington jackets with beautiful paisley detail, parkas with monochromatic prints and great bomber jackets with pristine white lace back panels. 

Key looks from Shannon's AW12 collection (photos: catwalking.com)

“ The boys modelling in the show were actually street cast, and when I saw them in my clothes I thought to myself, 'wow, the Christopher Shannon man is real, and accessible',” the designer told me post show. I couldn’t agree with him more. These clothes were not catwalky crap, it was proper gear for guys. The new season demonstrated sports aesthetic with functional cuts and large zip detailing. Shannon pieces were wearable, functional and most of all perfect for any man who simply appreciates good technique, impeccable design and continuous consistency. Here's to next season Shannon! 

This outrageously interesting backpack is at the top of my menswear wish list.

LONDON FASHION WEEK: BETWEEN THE SEAMS WITH MERCEDES-BENZ

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Mercedes-Benz is one of the official sponsors of London Fashion week, and as such convey many of the major editors, buyers models and celebrities around the city from show to show in fabulous cars. In that capacity they make fashion week do-able, and we love them for it. Mercedes-Benz also have a fashion website created especially to share the stories of all the people they work with in London, me amongst them, over the five days of the shows. In my case, I literally share my stories from this blog, so most of the London Fashion Week previews published here are over on voicesoffashion.co.uk too.  My  favourite aspect of the experience over on Voices of Fashion are the slick videos; one for each day of the shows. We get to find out a day in the life of a fashion buyer, thanks to the amazing Ruth Chapman, owner of Matches - sheesh - and I thought we journalists had it hard. Not to mention the HILARIOUS films by my friend Brix Smith Start with her little black leggy pug, Gladys. I have been laughing out loud at the video of Brix taking the dogs for their fashion week outfits at Mulberry.

The first film is funny and cute. The second one is super-informative. I'm in the second one for about five seconds btw, though I'm not sure I made much sense, though. I'll leave you with these, and get back to creating our summaries of fashion week, the models of the week is done (see below), to the most popular music played and of course what is trending..

Gladys In The Hood

Day Four of Fashion Week, including Tony Berardi, Christopher Kane, Matches, me, Brix and Tim Blanks

TRENDING: BLOW-UP AT LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN WINTER 2012

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large


One of the most interesting trends to emerge so far is the one for designers giving a high fashion spin to the humble Puffa or padded jacket. So far I am torn between choosing from these four.

J. W Anderson AW12 

Christopher Kane AW12

Peter Pilotto AW12 

Mulberry AW12

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW12: SIMONE ROCHA - A STAR IS BORN?

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Forgive me for that question mark. I am not one to take leave of my senses and start pronouncing a young designer a star on her first official outing as part of the NEWGEN programme at London Fashion Week. However judging by the concise, creative and inspiring outing from the Irish designer Simone Rocha this morning, I couldn't resist the question itself.

As as group of us bustled backstage to congratulate Simone following her show this morning, I overheard buyers from influential London store Dover Street Market saying: "That was good". "No, that wasn't just good, that was magic." I am inclined to agree. It is not easy to follow in the footsteps of a famous father, but St Martins MA graduate Simone Rocha has done just that.  In case you haven't made the connection yet, her Dad is John Rocha.

Simone Rocha's AW12 collection, shown today. (Photos: catwalking.com) 

From sweet collars, child-like shift dresses, and knitted tiaras to chunky brogues with thick wooden soles sandwiching glinting strips of neon, and oversized coats, this collection was a sweet boy/girl clash.

"It was inspired by Ireland," Simone told me post show, between being congratulated and all round mobbed by well wishers. "It started after I found images of a feral tribe from Papua New Guinea called 'New Ireland'  - thats where the densely tufted wools, wild mohair and animal print grey fabrics came from. I was also looking at 1930s photographs of Dublin's street children. The girls in tiny shrunken dresses and the boys in oversized pieces."

I love that she referenced Irish horse racing by getting the model's fringes swept to one side, and plaited through at the back. Apparently when done to a horse, this is called a "Connemara Forelock".

Above are my favourite looks. Personal order for the silver jacket, oversized coat and cream shift dress coming up!

You'll be seeing a lot more of this 25 year old in the seasons to come.