Been meaning to explain all week why Meadham Kirchhoff was one of my favourite shows. Well, here is why: it was radical, edgy and controversial - the fashion show equivalent of a rough diamond. One doesn't see that very often. There were enough ideas here for three shows, and lots of great trend-setting individual pieces. Why controversial? A lot of editors I know either didn't understand the show, found it too much to take in at once, or not edited and polished enough for the London runway. To that I say - look beyond the veils! (Many models were veiled thus obscuring their outfits. Not very helpful.)
Also consider that not everyone talented enough to deserve an on-schedule show at London Fashion Week has the bulging contacts book (or indeed demeanour) to ensure super-glossy stylists and A-list hair and make-up.
Having said that, my position is a preview was granted so my understanding was assisted and advanced. I knew what to expect and could enjoy the show. Here's the designers to explain:
"It's ethnic, but with origins as far flung as Southern Spain and Southern India," said Edward Meadham. "That means you will have couture level embroideries on our gowns, and some naive tinsel embroideries on our shrunken cashmere knits. We are doing lots of red, lots of fuschia and lots of glitter. We are creating beautiful Oscar gowns, long tea dresses, and 3/4 dressses, there is also an element of animal print and our signature tailoring. On the runway it will all be mashed together with veils. We want to do as many pretty, amazing things as possible. It's a total stream of consciousness."
EDWARD MEADHAM
"Our previous seasons have been more quiet, sad," Ben Kirchhoff explained to me. "This more intimate, less melancholic than our previous shows. Our reaction to the mood of the time is to do total prettiness. We are making things that feel personal to us. We are hand-painting biker jackets - its a move on from when we would daub on our leather jackets as teenagers with Tipppex. We are also expanding what we do with a commercial line of jewellery with Erickson Beamon and we have a few other projects in the pipeline."
BEN KIRCHHOFF
With references as diverse as the Russian costumier Leon Bakst (above), Courtney Love (see here for when Courtney met Meadham Kirchhoff), bedecked Rajasthani women, and naive childhood memories of Christmas, its easy to see why some ideas got lost in translation. My hope is that sales will ensue and the ideas germinated in this Autumn/Winter range will be expanded into a fully formed collection to satisfy their fans for Spring 2011.
Top of my list for AW10 is the "Hate is Love" biker jacket (top), the long red dress above, and a tinsel embroidered knit. The re-cut paper Christmas cracker hats by milliner Naser are fun too. Maybe they could make a killing selling designer Christmas hats to Harrods for fashiony Christmas crackers or something? That would certainly fund next season. Just a thought boys....
Mr. Meadham and Mr. Kirchhoff
On Meadham Kirchhoff's desk...
On their wall...
Their studio....
The wall of the studio...
Catwalk pictures: Chris Moore/Catwalking.com
Studio pictures: Fashion Editor at Large
