LFW SS13: HERE'S LOOKING AT YOU, RAG AND BONE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Hello, Rag and Bone audience!

It's a long way from Dakar to New York and then to London, but that's the trajectory taken by Rag and Bone which culminated in a presentation of their SS13 collection on Saturday afternoon of LFW. Let me explain if you were wondering why geography has anything to do with this post. If you haven't already seen Rag and Bone's SS13 collection, then you should know that it is made up of soft, loose cottons including hoods to drape gently over your head and fierce leather trousers, jackets and skirts, some in blinding neon colours. This is the Dakar bit, referring specifically to the Paris-Dakar rally- a hardcore off-road race which used to run, as the name suggests from Paris to Dakar, Senegal. Due to safety issues, it now takes place in South America but Rag and Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright drew inspiration from the combination of souped up cars and their crews, as well as the Bedouins whose territory the race would cross.

Paris-Dakar 2001 (image from www.usautoparts.net)

Bedouin styling (image from style.com)

The New York bit is obvious. Rag and Bone is a distinctly NY label even though the designers are British- they occupy a place on the city's fashion week schedule and slot nicely into the attitude and cool which defines a modern New York aesthetic. They have six stores in New York, and one a piece in Washington, Boston , Tokyo and now London. The only European store opened on Sloane Square back in July, so to celebrate the brand decided to host a presentation during London Fashion Week, with an official store opening by Anna Wintour at the same time. Natty. It was all well and good for Wintour who smashed champers over the door frame before crossing the road for the presentation. For the rif-raf (which still includes key editors and fashion directors of top publications) there was a long, confused and crowded wait as realisation dawned that there were to be two presentations and we would have to wait. I think quite a few gave up, judging by some tweets I saw but after being plied with free drink all the invited who stuck it out eventually made it in. There was none of the usual show diplomacy with carefully thought out seating plans, instead there was one bench at the front reserved for the most special of guests and beyond that, a free for all.

Even before it began, Rag and Bone in London was something different. Then it got fun and savvy. The screens which had been white with the brand logo flickered to life to show the audience reflections of ourselves. The fact that this made us so much more than observers became clear once the models emerged, dressed in looks seen already in New York. If anyone was moved enough to make any kind of facial expression then everyone would be able to see. There's one look- the green leather skirt you'll see details on below- which really makes me smile, perhaps that came across in the footage beamed onto the screen when the model passed my way.

Presentation over, we were shown out and, ta-da, were facing the Rag and Bone store. I guess if you were lucky enough to have a little LFW time to kill you could have popped straight in and bought something if you'd loved the presentation enough. It would have been fascinating to see how a "See and Buy" system could have worked, like the one Topshop Unique employed. Topshop let customers watching online click, choose the colours and buy looks as soon as they saw them streamed on the website. They'll be delivered to them in eight weeks time. Clever. I'm not sure Kings Road locals can have been mightily impressed to have hoardes of fashion people causing chaos in the square on their quiet Saturday afternoon stroll. But it definitely showed them what Rag and Bone is all about.

My favourite look- big zips, cracked graffiti paint-ish leather and a massive white shirt, what's not to love?

More Rag and Bone Details...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JUNE 11th- 15th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's been a long but thoroughly fascinating and jam-packed week here at FEAL HQ- we were at Graduate Fashion Week for most of the start of the week and came up for a quick breather yesterday before the start of Menswear mini-week today. Of course, we couldn't let the weekend come without bringing fashion news back after a two week absence...

GQ Editor Dylan Jones, Prince Charles, Harold Tilman and Caroline Rush at last night's event (image from  dailymail.co.uk)

The spotlight is on London's menswear designers this weekend as London Collections: Men gets underway with three days of shows and showrooms at the Hospital Club. There was a fancy launch party last hosted by Prince Charles at St James' Palace.  Incidentally, HRH has begun looking rather more dapper of late- maybe he's been taking style advice in advance of London's first run of dedicated men's shows. He was certainly keen to hear Tom Ford's tips on nail care, as Derek Blasberg tweeted last night. Also in attendance were Tinie Tempah and David Walliams, both known for their suave ensembles. However, Prince Charles' closest rival in the style stakes was BFC chairman, Harold Tilman who was as exquisitely turned out as ever. It'll be a varied few days with everyone from brilliantly bonkers Meadham Kirchhoff to Savile Row stalwarts Hardy Amies showing collections.

Wintour inspects SJP's house in advance of the party (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Not be outdone by London's show of the marriage of fashion and state affairs, America has seen Anna Wintour transcend her role of Vogue Editor to become one of Obama's major fundraisers. In her latest quest to secure the President a second term, Wintour teamed up with Sarah Jessica Parker to hold a dinner at the actress's home last night. Solange Knowles and Meryl Streep were among those who attended. Mr and Mrs Obama even popped in to greet the attendees. Rumour has it that Wintour might be rewarded for her efforts- which have seen her raise $500,000 so far- with the role of American Ambassador to London. How extraordinary would that be?

Maison Martin Margiela AW12... Now for H&M too (image from cat walking.com)

There has been much excitement about the announcement of two pretty major new designer/ high street collaborations this week. First to be revealed was H&M's latest venture, this time with Maison Martin Maison Margiela- a big surprise which sent fashion-savvy tweeters into a frenzy, imagining what might come from the collection and discussing whether Mr Margiela would ever have allowed this. After all, he left the business in 2009, leaving the design in the hands of long term colleagues while Diesel's Renzo Rosso gained ownership. I, for one, hope the collection- out on 15th November- will offer some immaculately cut trousers and jackets, a few dramatic curveballs and a smattering of bags and shoes in the vein of the spacey hi-tops currently on offer in the main collection.

In the mean time, H&M have released this teaser video to show what the collection could look like...



The next announcement was less surprising but equally exciting- Topshop let it be known that their next designer collection would come from one of the hottest kids on the London block right now, J.W Anderson- or J Dubs as he is more affectionately known. The collection will comprise the key ideas from Jonathan's design career to date. There are also plans for a second drop early in 2013. In a bit of a twist to the collaboration idea, the range will also include items which the designer himself has picked out such as books, rubik's cubes and memory sticks. J.W Anderson themed life, here we come!

J.W Anderson AW12... Now for Topshop too (image from catwalking.com)

Louboutin's signature red soles (image from www.scwimmerlegal.com)

Christian Louboutin's battle to retain his red sole trademark took another sad turn this week when he lost his case against Zara. The high street giant had produced red soled heels similar to Louboutin's YoYo style. However, the French courts ruled that the trademark was too vague and ordered Louboutin to pay £2,000 to Zara as compensation. An awful outcome for Louboutin whose name is extricably linked to the red sole, no matter who else tries to copy it- don't we think? 

Kate King walks the catwalk at the Louvre for Ferragamo (image from style.com)

Seasoned fashion week attendees will know that Paris's Louvre museum complex has in the past hosted Paris Fashion Week  (it's now a quick walk away in the Tuileries Gardens). However, there has never been a show which takes place amongst the precious works of art which hang in the Louvre's galleries. Until this week that is, when Salvatore Ferragamo showed their Resort collection in the Denon Wing. It looks like a grand affair complete with celebrities (Hilary Swank) and one of Paris' longest ever catwalks at 140m. There's little doubt that its affiliation with the La Sainte Anne: Leonardo Da Vinci's Ultimate Masterpiece takes the Ferragamo brand's already considerable glamour factor up a notch or ten.

Muhammad Ali for Louis Vuitton (image from vogue.co.uk)

Louis Vuitton unveiled the latest star of their Core Values campaign this week. Muhammad Ali is pictured alongside his gorgeous grandson Laila Ali at his Arizona home. The image is tagged with the line "Some stars show you the way". According to Yves Carcelle, Louis Vuitton's Chairman and CEO "this captures the idea of transmission, which is of great significance to Louis Vuitton". Annie Leibovitz took the shot which shows a bag from the Core Values travel collection open beneath Ali's leg.

Lady Gaga on the first cover she did for US Vogue in March 2011 (image from WWD)

Get set for a peak in Lady Gaga mania come September when her first ever perfume is set to launch. Rumour has it that she has already been shot for the cover of Vogue's September issue by Mert and Marcus. Images of the perfume, which Gaga previously said would smell  of "blood and semen", have also been leaked this week. It's been noted that the leaked bottle images look remarkably similar to Mugler's Alien bottle design. The super sweet perfume from Mugler, a brand Gaga has often worked closely with, is about as far from bodily fluids as you get so maybe the similarity ends at the bottle?

Gaga Fame vs. Mugler's Alien (image from Huffington Post)

Finally, if you enjoy horses, great eyeliner and stars and stripes hot pants then you will adore Azealia Banks' video for her new single Liquorice. It's directed by Rankin and styled by Nicola Formichetti. Apparently it was filmed in Paris- if anyone can tell me where the rugged, cliff- enhanced outback is around Paris I'd love to know- nevertheless I love it. Happy Weekend!

THE BEST DRESSED AT LAST NIGHTS MET BALL 2012 -

Posted by Melanie Rickey & Bethan Holt - team FEAL

There are more than enough red carpet events throughout the year to satisfy our need to award hits and misses to various celebrities' ultimate version of modern fantasy dressing. But the Met Ball is the fashion biggie. The outfits are not on the sideline here, but the the main attraction, and this is where we judge the actual FASHION not yet another interpretation of 'Hollywood Glamour' . Some choose to approach it exactly how they might the Oscars -  hello, Scarlett Johannsson dressed like an actual Oscar statuette. Others use it as an opportunity to try something a little edgier - I'm talking to you, yes you Coco Rocha in your on-trend trousers.

Last night's event launched the 'Prada and Schiaparelli: Impossible Conversations' show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this years successor to Savage Beauty/McQueen blockbuster of 2011, which will run throughout the Summer. There was plenty of Prada and a number of nods to Schiaparelli, and in some instances both - nice tcouch Anna Wintour. But also a variety of new riffs on the red carpet vibe. Diego Della Valle also chose yesterday to announce that he'll be reviving Schiaparelli although the rumours from a few months back that Galliano might be designing seem to have come to nothing. Though we are very much looking forward to what Diego does with the brand, as his revival of the house of Roger Vivier has been beautifully executed by his team and the brands Creative Director Ines de La Fressange.

Here are our picks of the looks which best represent how trends were worked into the looks of the night. This is a barometer for where red carpet fashion will be going in the coming months...it is also, in some cases, a barometer of where real fashion and trends are going. You will be appropriating some of this into your look someday soon.....

MELANIE'S HIGHLIGHTS:

1. Gwyneth Paltrow in Prada

A very grown up was to do pastels - more futuristic than sugar sweet.  And short! Also, excuse me, but how hot is her body? If that's what two hours a day with a Tracy Anderson trained PT can give you...

(image from Dailymail.co.uk)

2. Kate Bosworth in Prada

One of many to wear very dark lips- there was definitely a goth mood in the air but Kate's made it less severe with a shorter length dress, definitely looking fresh. expect to see LOTS of short in the next collections.

(image from Popsugar.com)

3. Lily Collins in Valentino

Lily and SJP (below) both look serenely beautiful in high-neckedVictoriana style, Valentino.There was barely an inch of flesh in sight and it made the women all the more alluring. This is something we're seeing a lot of now. Covered up is the new chic.

Image from dailymail.co.uk

4. Sarah Jessica Parker in Valentino

( image from www.popsugar.com)

5. Milla Jovovich in Prada Autumn/Fall Winter 2012

Image from dailymail.co.uk

6. Rooney Mara in Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci gave us two versions of his Gothic fashionista with his designs for Rooney Mara and Gisele. Pale-skinned Mara's gown combined lace and leather, and along with her dark burgundy lips she looked sensational, definitely where we will be taking our look this Autumn/Fall. With her athletic body, healthy glow and sequinned bling Gisele's play at the woman of darkness thing offered a more Hollywood interpretation. Both get the thumbs up from FEAL.

image from dailymail.co.uk

7. Gisele in Givenchy

image from dailymail.co.uk

8. Scarlett Johansson Dolce and Gabbana

Ms Johansson giving us a delicious taster of Dolce Gabbana's wonderful fairytale, baroque splendour which awaits us for Autumn. though we love this, it isn't quite as directional as it could have been, given the occasion.

image from popsugar.com

9. Jessica Alba in Michael Kors

Another sampler of Autumn/fall's forthcoming opulence-fest - it really is going to be special.

Image from www.ibtimes.com

10. Coco Rocha in Elizabeth Taylor's Givenchy trouser suit

By far the most INTERESTING and fabulous choice of the night. Rocha went completely against the tradition of having a custom dress and instead wore the outfit she'd bought at the auction of Elizabeth Taylor's wardrobe. I think both Mrs Prada and Mrs Schiaparellii would have approved. Coco's independence of spirit is admirable in the face of Vogue diktats and 'suggested' (aka subtly enforced) dress-codes.

Image from Popsugar.com

11. Miuccia Prada, the guest of honour

Here is Mrs Prada being brilliant in jacquard trousers and tunic and stomping big, gem heels.

image from vogue.com

FASHION JUNIOR'S HIGHLIGHTS:

1. Arizona Muse in Erdem

The evening's best look from a Brit designer, and Erdem is looking pretty hot too.

Arizona with Erdem (image from vogue.com)

2. Anna Wintour in Prada

I love how literal and diplomatic this is: a Prada dress with classic Schiaparelli lobster motif.

image from dailymail.co.uk

3. Lana del Rey in Altuzarra

Ok, so Lana does look a bit miserable but I don't know why because Jospeh Altuzarra's chainmail gown and long, black cape do that goth thing but with a glamorous, via-the-dancefloor sort of vibe, and capes and chainmail are so on-trend for Autumn/Fall. Game of Thrones lovers, take note!

image from stylelite.com

4. Solange Knowles in Rachel Roy

I have a huge style crush on Solange at the moment. The buttercup brightness and peplum detail look chic but not too serious plus that 'fro is the best accessory ever.

image from dailymail.co.uk

5. Marc Jacobs n Comme des Garcons

We can't leave without showing you Marc Jacobs in Comme des Garcons lace, boxers and buckled shoes from his women's mainline collection ... Yeah, baby.

image from graziadaily.co.uk

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 9th- 13th JANUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday Fashion lovers and welcome to the first Week in Fashion of the year. It's certainly no slow start to 2012...

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty is up for a design award (image from Alexander McQueen)

It will be the resounding fashion image of 2011 and this week Sarah Burton's design for Kate Middleton's wedding dress was among the nominees on The Design Museum's longlist for its Design of the Year award. In further recognition for Alexander McQueen, the Savage Beauty exhibition (which is still on track to come to London in the not-too distant future) also appears among the contenders.

Miu Miu SS12 (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

  A few interesting announcements on new brand faces this week. We're loving Mia Wasikowska for Miu Miu. The star of 'Jane Eyre' and 'Alice in Wonderland' fits perfectly with the dark kookiness of their SS12 collection. Not so cool though is this morning's news that Kristen Stewart (yes, she of Twilight megastardom) will be the face of Balenciaga's as yet unnamed perfume which will be released in the Summer. It's not that I actively dislike Kristen, it's just that she doesn't Wow. She follows in the footsteps of the aspirationally chic Charlotte Gainsbourg which kind of makes it worse.

Charlotte Gainbourg for Balenciaga (image from lafascination.com)

 While us fashion press might have our opinions about Crocs, the ultimate 'ugly' shoe, it seems the world's love affair goes on. It was reported this week that the plastic clog company has raked in $1 billion revenue this year, a peak in its ten year existence. If any of us were sort of hoping they might quietly disappear then then we will be sorely disappointed to hear that they have gone from 'a casual fashion trend to a phenomenon with staying power'.

Rick Santorum is claiming the sweater vest as his 'thing' (image from latimes.com)

 For Britain, 2012 will be the year of the Olympics and the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. In the US, it's election year and Barack Obama is seeking a second Presidential term. Just a week into election year and we already have TWO fashion stories to report. First up is Republican candidate Rick Santorum who is responsible for reintroducing 'the sweater vest' back into the collective consciousness. He has hailed the sleeveless jumpers as central to people starting to notice him, he claims they give him 'power'. And should you be inspired to follow Santorum's sartorial lead, then you can purchase your own sweater vest from his website. Unfortunately, this also means you'll be contributing to his campaign, hence I'm not posting a link.

A cute photo of the Obamas on their wedding day (from instyle.com)

 Obama's Democrat campaign has a tad more fashion kudos behind it after the launch of Runway to Win. Anna Wintour, a big supporter of Obama from the start, has spearheaded the project (a repeat of the 2008 one) and persuaded 22 American designers to partake, including Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, Diane Von Furstenberg and Joseph Altuzarra. Various accessories will be sold with proceeds going to Obama's Victory Fund. Wintour will be attending numerous events as part of Runway to Win, starting with a reception which Scarlett Johansson will co-host in February.

A Derek Lam tote for Obama $75

Karen Gillan and Aneurin Barnard in We'll Take Manhattan (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Shrimpton and Bailey (image from dailymail.co.uk)

 On January 26th, a new film, We'll Take Manhattan, about the relationship between David Bailey (played by Aneurin Barnard) and Jean Shrimpton will be shown on BBC4. Shrimpton is played by Dr Who star Karen Gillan and there is thus plenty of buzz about its screening. From the images released this week, it looks set to be a visual delight. As part of the renewed interest in 'The Shrimp's' career, images taken by Ronald Falloon- a friend of Bailey's- have gone on sale here and they are quite gorgeous.

Jean Shrimpton by Ronald Falloon (image from vogue.co.uk)

It's hardly unusual for celebrity offspring to venture in their parents' footsteps- see the Geldofs and Jaggers for prime examples- but the moment when transformation from child to it-teenager takes place is quite intriguing. This week, Meg Matthews tweeted a photo of her daughter Anais, whose Daddy is Noel Gallagher, taken by Mario Testino. Although she's only 11, the image will surely get model agencies excited at the prospect of the dynamite combination of beauty and famous genes. Watch out Anais and enjoy being a little girl a while longer, however hard that may be when you have Mario Testino taking casual snaps of you. We suspect Noel was a bit pissed off.

Anais Gallagher by Mario Testino (image from Meg Matthews via Daily Mail)

 As big fans of anyone who take it upon themselves to support young design talent, FEAL was happy to hear about the new H&M Design Award, details of which have been announced this morning. The winner of the International Award will receive a very helpful 50,000 euros plus the chance to show at Stockholm Fashion Week which, as judge Hilary Alexander says will 'catapult them straight to the front line of fashion'. Other judges include London design genius Christopher Kane and Head of Design at H&M, Ann-Sofie Johannson. You can follow the progress of the designers from Europe's most prestigious design schools (including London College of Fashion and St Martins) at the  project's site. The winning designer will be announced on February 1st.



The awards season is getting under way already.Last night, the Critics Choice Awards took place and The Artist, my cinema choice for this weekend, swept the floor. Nevertheless, Meryl Streep is set to be the actress of the season and so all eyes will be on her designer choices- she's been loving Stella McCartney thus far. Yesterday, the FashEd bumped into Christopher Di Pietro of Vivienne Westwood, who revealed that the brand was in the final two for Meryl's Golden Globes dress. We'll be keeping our eyes peeled. And before you ask, Meryl is sorted for the Oscars apparently.

Christopher Kane styled by Francesca Burns for SS12

New season Jil Sander styled by Francesca Burns for British Vogue

 We are loving some of the fresh approaches to showing the SS12 collections. Two standout favourites this week are British Vogue's 'Spring Forward' SS12 Spring Collections story by new Fashion Editor Francesca Burns, which is fresh with just the right smattering of quirks, and Steven Meisel's IVC film (a pun on QVC) for Italian Vogue. You can see it for yourselves below, but I completely love how they take a tired, outdated yet consistently cheesy and hilarious form of shopping and pop in the coolest, most desired new pieces in place of fish poachers and slankets.



A sale tip-off now: Hermes are having sales today and tomorrow of their Men's and Women's collections plus accessories. It's taking place at: Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, London, W1K 5AB until 7 today and 8 til 6 tomorrow. Judging by Francesca Burns' twitter pic this morning, most of you are already there.

The Hermes queue, courtesy of Francesca Burns' Twitter

On Wednesday evening, I went along to the launch of Smile for London's new project for London Underground, Words in Motions. They've teamed up poets and animators to create short films which will be shown from Monday in tube stations. They were some brilliant performances from London poets, particularly fab were Salena Godden and Musa Okwonga. If you're not in London, or just fancy a sneak peek then press play below...



SfL: Word In Motion Teaser from Smile for London on Vimeo.

WANT TO BE THE FIRST TO WEAR SS12?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Nope, I'm sorry but Carine Roitfeld, Lisa Marie Fernandez and Anna Wintour (and more I'm sure) have beaten you to it. I know, I know, we thought fast fashion happened in Primark and Zara, not at Burberry and Givenchy. But think again because some of fashion's best connected are already wearing pieces which are probably warm off the models' backs. Are we jealous? Noooooo.

Lisa Marie Fernandez shows off her SS12 Pilotto in Paris (Image from graziadaily.co.uk)

One of my favourite shows of this season was Peter Pilotto and I thought I was safe in the knowledge that I had nine months to find a way to acquire a little piece of it. Swimwear designer Lisa Marie Fernandez had a head start on us all, earning her chance to premiere the prom dress by collaborating on the scuba ensembles which were standouts in the collection.

Peter Pilotto SS12

Anna Wintour arrived at the Louis Vuitton show on Wednesday morning in an African print trench coat from the Burberry SS12 show which she had taken a front row seat a mere two weeks earlier.

Wintour arriving at Vuitton (image from zimbio.com)

On the catwalk... Burberry SS12

But prize for the most astonishingly speedy turnaround goes to Carine Roitfeld who wore a variation on a number of looks from the Givenchy show the day after it took place.

Carine makes it real-life worthy with a silky blouse and shortened tails (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

On the catwalk...Givenchy SS12