MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM FEAL

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's nearly time to hang up our stockings and settle down to Love Actually, Quality Streets and just one more turkey sandwich. Before that though, I'll whizz you through the week's fashion happenings...

There'll be no Givenchy couture show in January, the Parisian house announced this week. However, that doesn't mean there'll no representation of Riccardo Tisci's designs on red carpets as commissions will continue to be taken for celebrities and other special clients.

Cate Blanchett  in Givenchy Couture

The Beckham fashion world takeover continues with plenty of stories from the family this week.  Not only is Romeo the star of Burberry's SS13 campaign but his Mum is launching an e-commerce site in the New Year while David has apparently bought his wife some silky Olivia Von Halle pyjamas for Christmas. Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman was quick to point out that Romeo doesn't meet Vogue model standards so a cover is a little way off yet.

Gwen Stefani graces the cover of American Vogue's January edition. She's wears Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent, which is quite a statement of support for the collection which caused such a drama when it was shown in September. Fashion observers are now labelling Saint Laurent as the go-to for musicians while Raf Simons' Dior is for princessy actresses apparently.

Gwen Stefani images via Vogue.com

In other ad campaign news, Prada has switched from the usual course of telling stories in its ads- recall the models at the petrol station, or playing chess?- and gone for a series of pared back images for SS13. Steven Meisel is, as ever, behind the camera. Prada say the new approach is about reflecting "confident individuality". Meanwhile, I would love to know the story behinds Marc Jacobs and Juergen Teller's SS13 Marc by Marc Jacobs ads which feature grafitti and a toilet. 

Prada SS13 (Image via Prada)

Marc by Marc Jacobs (image via highsnobette.com)

Finally two big publishing industry stories this week which you should certainly cast your eye over. Thailand and Ukraine will get their own Vogue editions next year, which can only mean one thing, reports Jess Cartner-Morley. Also this week, Vice Media bought i-D magazine. Andrew Creighton, Vice's President said "What i-D has not necessarily done, by accident or design, is move into the digital area in a big way." Watch this space.

Melanie and I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and New Year. Thanks for helping us have an awesome FEAL year, bring on 2013. We'll be back in January

XXX

THIS WEEK'S FASHION LOWDOWN...LANVIN'S "REAL" WOMEN PLUS A BIT OF SHOPPING

Posted by Melanie Rickey and Bethan Holt, Team FEAL

Our usual news update takes on a slightly different guise for the moment - as you read this Bethan is on her way to Cornwall for the weekend to attend her first Port Eliot Festival. So, together, we've decided to bring you a round-up of the best fashion stories of the past week to keep you all in the loop. As always, the fashion machine cranks to a halt in July and August while its members take their summer holidays before the fun of September and October fashion shows. Look out for Bethan's Port Eliot updates on Instagram and Twitter.

For now then, here's all you need to know...

Meet the new faces of Lanvin. 
Woman #1
Her name is Jacquie Tajah Murdock, and she is an 82-year-old African-American woman who was born in Harlem and had a long career as a dancer before retiring to state funded housing in Greenwich Village, New York City. Imagine her surprise, then, when the street style photos taken of her by Ari Seth Cohen for his brilliant blog Advanced Style were spotted by none other than Steven Meisel and Alber Elbaz of Lanvin who cast her in the latest Lanvin advertising campaign for AW12.

Meisel and Elbaz looked outside of the usual pool of genetically-blessed models for this campaign, aiming for something more "real."  Though an 82 year old in Lanvin by Meisel is about as real as Carla Bruni's suspiciously smooth forehead. The designer explained his decision to use non-models to Women's Wear Daily :"I was interested to bring these clothes back to the street somehow, and seeing how they look on different ages, different sizes. It felt like a crazy family, and I like that."

And here she is.. I'm guessing the below is not Jacquie's apartment.. but still FEAL applauds anything outside standard fashion behaviour. The other "real" woman in the campaign has not yet been named, but we're guessing her life story is as extraordinary as the wonderful Ms Murdock's who told The Daily Beast her future plans: "Paris!"

Jacquie Tajah Murdock in the Lanvin AW12 Campaign

Midnight update on Woman #2

This is Stella Rose, a self described "female drag queen" which means that she is a woman who dresses like a man who dresses like a woman.  And a fine specimen she is too. Thanks to @JenikaClair on Twitter I now know this, so couldn't resist a late night update. Stella Rose has a blog called Confessions of a Female Drag Queen. Here are a few of her insights into her day on set...

Stella Rose in Lanvin Autumn/Winter 2012 Campaign by Steven Meisel

"Yes, I was street cast for this. If anyone is trying to make you feel bad for looking different I am telling you now that this is where being yourself will get you. 

Yes, Steven Meisel shot this. He was very nice and the shoot went completely smoothly. It was an absolute honor to shoot with him and his team.

Yes, Alber Elbaz was there. He dressed me- hand picked my outfit and everything while a team of french ladies put me into it. Both sample dresses were too big on me and I was pinned into this one. So take that everyone who has a problem with skinny models."

Adorable, right? 

An AW12 look from Wes Gordon, one of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominees. 

The short list has this week been announced for one of fashion design's most coveted prizes, the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund which was won last year by the gorgeous Joseph Altuzarra, who took home $300,000 to grow his business.

The 10 shortlisted designers for 2012 won't be sitting on their laurels until the winner is announced on November 13th. Instead, they must complete a series of challenges including presenting their work to a judging panel and making a one-off piece for Tiffany & co. The nominees include one of Melanie's favourite sunglasses makers, Illesteva.

Andrea Lieberman, A.L.C.
Greg Armas, Assembly New York
Sofia Sizzi, Giulietta
Justin Salguero, Daniel Silberman, and Alina Silberman; Illesteva
Jennifer Fisher, Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Jennifer Meyer Maguire, Jennifer Meyer
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, Suno
Tabitha Simmons, Tabitha Simmons
Greg Chait, The Elder Statesman
Wes Gordon, Wes Gordon

The divine Valentino Resort (image from style.com)

In another sign of the times, Italian makers of fairytale dresses Valentino, has been sold to an investment group believed to be owned by the Qatari royal family which also counts Harrods among their assets. It's a long way from the early days under founder Valentino Garavani, who retired from designing for the label in January 2008. £556 million was reportedly paid for the business by Mayhoola for Investments. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli will remain as creative directors, which we're very happy about after drooling over their gorgeous Resort collection. 

Yves Saint Laurent blows a kiss at his Autumn/ Winter 2000-1 couture show (image from bbc.co.uk)

Since he was appointed to Yves Saint Laurent in March Hedi Slimane has caused a stir, first by deciding to rename the ready-to-wear label of the brand "Saint Laurent Paris" and secondly by showing his first collection, Resort '13, to select buyers only. However, his latest pronouncement may appease those whose feathers have been ruffled up to now because he has hinted that he may bring Yves Saint Laurent back to the couture calendar. He has reportedly told Vogue Paris that "Haute couture is a legitimate subject for Yves Saint Laurent and could resume one day" Watch this space. 

Joanna Sykes' final collection for Aquascutum (image from catwalking.com)

Joanna Sykes, formerly at troubled Brit brand Aquascutum, has got a new job as Creative Director at Nicole Farhi. She starts in September and will show her first collection for AW13. Sasha Wilkins, a.k.a LLG, summed up Sykes' appointment rather brilliantly, writing on her blog "Finally we can expect something new and fresh from a Nicole Farhi show, rather than just the prospect of dozing fitfully through one. It’s just the jolt that the label needed to make it relevant again." We couldn't agree more.

THINGS TO DO & BUY THIS WEEKEND:

A cap created for the Opening Ceremony pop-up by needlepoint experts Tucker-Blair and Harding Lane (image from WWD)

If you're in London, get down to King's Street, Covent Garden on Friday 20th July and onwards where Opening Ceremony's olympic pop-up launches on Friday. It is a long forgotten fact by most people in the industry that Opening Ceremony was originally founded by Humberto Leon as a way to celebrate the diversity of the Olympiad through fashion.  Opening Ceremony adopt the Olympics mission statement for the brand ethos; to creatively merge sports, business, and global participation. There will be exclusive collaborations and great pieces from Adidas, J.W Anderson, Rodarte and more. Surely the most stylish way to get in the mood for the coming sporting extravaganza. 

Jonathan Saunders' charity tee for Matches(image from hypebeat.com)

If you the weather does turn and we get some sun then you'll be needing a t-shirt. Happily, Matches have teamed up with J.W Anderson, Mary Katrantzou and Jonathan Saunders to create some very cool t-shirts to raise money for the Evening Standard's London Dispossessed Fund. Mary has even recreated her legendary AW12 typewriter print for the project. Get one for £60 from tomorrow (Friday 20th). 

Mary Katranzou's typewriter for charity print (image from hypebeast.com)

Set your Sky Plus/ phone reminder for the last instalment in the Ab Fab comeback, due to air next Monday evening. This is the one centred around the Olympics and starring Stella McCartney alongside Patsy, Eddy and Saffy. We can't wait!

Olympic style, the Ab Fab way (image from vogue.co.uk)

YOU SHOULD KNOW...

Kate Middleton has not done her first magazine cover, as this dodgy photoshopped issue of South African Marie Claire might suggest...

Kate Middleton does African fashion, not (image from huffingtonpost.com)

Harper Beckham can WALK.

Mario Ballotelli has sounded the rallying cry for this Summer's best beach look war. Mohican, neon accessories and underwear as swimwear, Mario?? We're hooked already and look forward to bringing you more of our top ranking twisted beach looks in the coming weeks...

I'm Sexy and I Know It Balotelli 

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 9th- 13th JANUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday Fashion lovers and welcome to the first Week in Fashion of the year. It's certainly no slow start to 2012...

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty is up for a design award (image from Alexander McQueen)

It will be the resounding fashion image of 2011 and this week Sarah Burton's design for Kate Middleton's wedding dress was among the nominees on The Design Museum's longlist for its Design of the Year award. In further recognition for Alexander McQueen, the Savage Beauty exhibition (which is still on track to come to London in the not-too distant future) also appears among the contenders.

Miu Miu SS12 (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

  A few interesting announcements on new brand faces this week. We're loving Mia Wasikowska for Miu Miu. The star of 'Jane Eyre' and 'Alice in Wonderland' fits perfectly with the dark kookiness of their SS12 collection. Not so cool though is this morning's news that Kristen Stewart (yes, she of Twilight megastardom) will be the face of Balenciaga's as yet unnamed perfume which will be released in the Summer. It's not that I actively dislike Kristen, it's just that she doesn't Wow. She follows in the footsteps of the aspirationally chic Charlotte Gainsbourg which kind of makes it worse.

Charlotte Gainbourg for Balenciaga (image from lafascination.com)

 While us fashion press might have our opinions about Crocs, the ultimate 'ugly' shoe, it seems the world's love affair goes on. It was reported this week that the plastic clog company has raked in $1 billion revenue this year, a peak in its ten year existence. If any of us were sort of hoping they might quietly disappear then then we will be sorely disappointed to hear that they have gone from 'a casual fashion trend to a phenomenon with staying power'.

Rick Santorum is claiming the sweater vest as his 'thing' (image from latimes.com)

 For Britain, 2012 will be the year of the Olympics and the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. In the US, it's election year and Barack Obama is seeking a second Presidential term. Just a week into election year and we already have TWO fashion stories to report. First up is Republican candidate Rick Santorum who is responsible for reintroducing 'the sweater vest' back into the collective consciousness. He has hailed the sleeveless jumpers as central to people starting to notice him, he claims they give him 'power'. And should you be inspired to follow Santorum's sartorial lead, then you can purchase your own sweater vest from his website. Unfortunately, this also means you'll be contributing to his campaign, hence I'm not posting a link.

A cute photo of the Obamas on their wedding day (from instyle.com)

 Obama's Democrat campaign has a tad more fashion kudos behind it after the launch of Runway to Win. Anna Wintour, a big supporter of Obama from the start, has spearheaded the project (a repeat of the 2008 one) and persuaded 22 American designers to partake, including Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, Diane Von Furstenberg and Joseph Altuzarra. Various accessories will be sold with proceeds going to Obama's Victory Fund. Wintour will be attending numerous events as part of Runway to Win, starting with a reception which Scarlett Johansson will co-host in February.

A Derek Lam tote for Obama $75

Karen Gillan and Aneurin Barnard in We'll Take Manhattan (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Shrimpton and Bailey (image from dailymail.co.uk)

 On January 26th, a new film, We'll Take Manhattan, about the relationship between David Bailey (played by Aneurin Barnard) and Jean Shrimpton will be shown on BBC4. Shrimpton is played by Dr Who star Karen Gillan and there is thus plenty of buzz about its screening. From the images released this week, it looks set to be a visual delight. As part of the renewed interest in 'The Shrimp's' career, images taken by Ronald Falloon- a friend of Bailey's- have gone on sale here and they are quite gorgeous.

Jean Shrimpton by Ronald Falloon (image from vogue.co.uk)

It's hardly unusual for celebrity offspring to venture in their parents' footsteps- see the Geldofs and Jaggers for prime examples- but the moment when transformation from child to it-teenager takes place is quite intriguing. This week, Meg Matthews tweeted a photo of her daughter Anais, whose Daddy is Noel Gallagher, taken by Mario Testino. Although she's only 11, the image will surely get model agencies excited at the prospect of the dynamite combination of beauty and famous genes. Watch out Anais and enjoy being a little girl a while longer, however hard that may be when you have Mario Testino taking casual snaps of you. We suspect Noel was a bit pissed off.

Anais Gallagher by Mario Testino (image from Meg Matthews via Daily Mail)

 As big fans of anyone who take it upon themselves to support young design talent, FEAL was happy to hear about the new H&M Design Award, details of which have been announced this morning. The winner of the International Award will receive a very helpful 50,000 euros plus the chance to show at Stockholm Fashion Week which, as judge Hilary Alexander says will 'catapult them straight to the front line of fashion'. Other judges include London design genius Christopher Kane and Head of Design at H&M, Ann-Sofie Johannson. You can follow the progress of the designers from Europe's most prestigious design schools (including London College of Fashion and St Martins) at the  project's site. The winning designer will be announced on February 1st.



The awards season is getting under way already.Last night, the Critics Choice Awards took place and The Artist, my cinema choice for this weekend, swept the floor. Nevertheless, Meryl Streep is set to be the actress of the season and so all eyes will be on her designer choices- she's been loving Stella McCartney thus far. Yesterday, the FashEd bumped into Christopher Di Pietro of Vivienne Westwood, who revealed that the brand was in the final two for Meryl's Golden Globes dress. We'll be keeping our eyes peeled. And before you ask, Meryl is sorted for the Oscars apparently.

Christopher Kane styled by Francesca Burns for SS12

New season Jil Sander styled by Francesca Burns for British Vogue

 We are loving some of the fresh approaches to showing the SS12 collections. Two standout favourites this week are British Vogue's 'Spring Forward' SS12 Spring Collections story by new Fashion Editor Francesca Burns, which is fresh with just the right smattering of quirks, and Steven Meisel's IVC film (a pun on QVC) for Italian Vogue. You can see it for yourselves below, but I completely love how they take a tired, outdated yet consistently cheesy and hilarious form of shopping and pop in the coolest, most desired new pieces in place of fish poachers and slankets.



A sale tip-off now: Hermes are having sales today and tomorrow of their Men's and Women's collections plus accessories. It's taking place at: Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, London, W1K 5AB until 7 today and 8 til 6 tomorrow. Judging by Francesca Burns' twitter pic this morning, most of you are already there.

The Hermes queue, courtesy of Francesca Burns' Twitter

On Wednesday evening, I went along to the launch of Smile for London's new project for London Underground, Words in Motions. They've teamed up poets and animators to create short films which will be shown from Monday in tube stations. They were some brilliant performances from London poets, particularly fab were Salena Godden and Musa Okwonga. If you're not in London, or just fancy a sneak peek then press play below...



SfL: Word In Motion Teaser from Smile for London on Vimeo.

ADVENT DAY 15: OH, PRETTY DAY!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

 It may be cold outside but there's nothing like a ice cream sweet new Louis Vuitton advert to brighten the day. After the merry-go-round setting of the SS12 show, the location for the ad campaign had to be equally evocative of innocent, childish fun times. And where better to go after a fairground visit than for a knickerbockerglory... And so Steven Meisel and Marc Jacobs chose an ice cream parlour as the setting for the campaign which only strengthens the message we got from the show- that is, you can't get too saccharine for Spring this year. The sweeter and prettier the better.

Image from fashiongonerogue.com

The models, a blonde and a brunette, are Daria Strokous and Kati Nescher. Both walked in the show back in October.Jacobs told WWD 'It is all very soft and very sweet, yet at the same time very bold and very graphic'. That boldness surely comes from the absolute commitment to sweetness which this collection, and these ads, show. There is also a lot of humour too, from the models' playful poses to the desserts waiting to be eaten. But there is still structure coming from those signature boxy jackets and, of course, the accessories. Oh Marc, you're clever!

Backstage at LV SS12 (Image from lloyd-evans.com)

 Today's advent choice is a direct consequence of waking up to these images. I've always hankered after a Pashley bicycle and the Vuitton ads bring that wish back to the front of my mind. Apart from one of those Speedy or Lockit bags, a pink Pashley Poppy is possibly the perfect accompaniment to a Vuitton-like SS12 outfit. I say 'like' because I can guarantee that for those of us who can't quite buy into Marc's vision directly, there will be a wealth of choice on the high street for making your own version pastel-y loveliness. The Pashley will take you from fairground to ice cream parlour very nicely, without ruining the fantasy.

Pashley Poppy in Blush Pink £450

Louis Vuitton sent us these pictures showing some of the latest celebrities showing off their SS12 Vuitton. Although the dresses look beautiful, in a real life setting so much of that sorbet sugariness is taken away that these pieces take on a whole new vibe in my eyes. So basically, you can wear your LV SS12 on a Pashley in the sunshine, ice cream in hand. Or contrast its the lightness with a night time film premiere/ party- the choice is yours...

The ever elegant Cate Blanchett

The ever sweet Elle Fanning

Olivia Wilde (images courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

Today's quote and video come from the most sugarly sweet character there ever was...

'Practically perfect in every way' Mary Poppins

THE WEEK IN FASHION: OCTOBER 17th-21st

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Welcome to another week of  news from the fashion world, brought to you by FEAL. Happy Weekend!

I'm going to start this week's news on a sort of business-y note as I've been a bit perplexed by a lot of the big money news which seems to have emerged over the past few days, despite the doom and gloom of the financial pages. I'm no economic whizz kid but I do find it baffling that while Europe is apparently in deep crisis, spending at the Frieze art fair was brisk and Marc Quinn's statue of Kate Moss in a rather tangled yoga pose was snapped up for a mere £577,250 at a Sotheby's sale; the lucky owner is apparently a private individual from Europe, lucky them!

Marc Quinn's 'Microcosmos' (Image from Vogue.co.uk)

A couple of big fashion houses have posted massive profits this week as well, and not just due to expansion in the East.  This week LVMH and Dior both reported rises of around 15%. Of course, Asia is where the greatest opportunity lies for luxury brands; LVMH saw a 27% increase in the last four months. That said, Europe and the US are not THAT far behind with profits rising by 7% and 18% respectively in those areas. One of the many brands under the LVMH umbrella is Celine, where Phoebe Philo is still being lauded for her game changing collections;  results were said to have been 'remarkable' there, perhaps showing that it is not just a catwalk phenomenon which Philo has masterminded. It's worth highlighting as well that Dior's lack of solid design direction doesn't seem to have done them much harm at all- clearly perfume and leather goods can ride even the most potent of media storms.

Everyone still wants a bit of Celine, according to LVMH results (Image from FashionGoneRogue.com)

The importance of the Asian market is underlined by the expansion which many brands are currently undertaking. The latest is Vivienne Westwood who opened her first Chinese store in Shanghai earlier this week. Dame Viv is in China to take part in lots of activities promoting the opening including being guest of honour at the opening of Shanghai Fashion Week. Never one to be seen and not heard, she's also promoting her concerns about the environment and sustainability by addressing the 'Can China survive the world green economy?' conference.

Dame Vivienne Westwood at the opening of her new Shanghai shop

Enough of the business chat and on to some excellent images by Steven Meisel for W magazine's annual art issue. He has employed the talents of various stars including Linda Evangelista, Karen Elson, Coco Rocha and Joan Rivers to create fake ads for imagined products dreamed up with a little help from the W team. Among them the predicatable next project of Petra Ecclestone and a retro spin on shampoo promotion. I've included some of the images below and somewhere in there is Anna Dello Russo, can you spot her? Hint: You have NEVER seen her quite like this before.

All images from nymag.com

When I read this next story, it made my skin crawl with its subtly anti-woman undertones. Christian Louboutin has been explaining why he thinks women love shoes so much. He says 'That's why women are happy to wear painful shoes. For some a little discomfort is balanced by something else, which has to do with desire. You feel yourself, empower yourself, know yourself. You are aware of your body. This little act of discomfort pays off in lots of other ways... There is an element of seduction in shoes that doesn't exist for men...The language starts with the shoe and radiates over the whole body. A woman can be sexy, charming, witty or shy with her shoes. Shoes for men are about elegance or wealth; they are not playing with the inner character''

Image from ftape.com

I'll let you make your own mind up about whether there's any element of truth in that account of why we wear heels, and we can't argue against the fact that Louboutin has had an epic effect on what we wear on our feet. In the interests of balance, I thought I'd post an extract from Caitlin Moran's amazing 'How to be a Woman'-
 'The unwearability of high heels is self-evidently all around us- coming to a head at the average wedding reception, a uniformly high-heeled occasion. In our minds we see it as an elegant and serene gathering of women in their finest. One of the big chances of the year to pretend you're at the Oscars, in your stilettos. In actuality, of course, it looks like the annual AGM of the Tina Turner Impressionist Union- women staggering around in unaccustomed verticality; foot flesh pouring out over tight, unkind satin, toes going numb for days afterwards''. 

Image from telegraph.co.uk

Miu Miu's decision to hire Hailee Steinfeld as the face of their AW11 campaign caused quite a stir with the debate divided between those who thought she was freakishly young and those who thought the images were charming and sweet (and lots in between). So, the Resort campaign starring 34- year old Guinevere Van Seenus represents something of a leap for Miu Miu. Guinevere was chosen by Erdem earlier in the year to model his Resort 2012 collection, inspired by Hitchcock leading ladies. In a matter of months, the Miu Miu woman has doubled in age and transformed from childish slip of a thing to assured lady, quite the genius move or confusing?

Erdem Resort 2012 (Image from fashionologie.com)

In an interview the FashEd did with Donatella Versace a while back, she told us that the Versace for H&M collection would revive lots of the prints which the label was famous for back in the nineties. True to her word, there is a wealth of fabulously flamboyant baroque references in the full lookbook for the collection which we got to see for the first time this week. It's so darn bellisima, bring on November 17th!

Versace for H&M- Image from telegraph.co.uk

Finally, we may not all be able to fork out the £60,000 paid for a Tracey Emin at Frieze but for a mere tenner you can get your hands on Emin engraved soap at Liberty's Beauty Hall. The project is part of Emin's support for Art Against Knives project which she is involved in 'Because I am against people stabbing each other. Full stop'. Each soap comes wrapped in a poem which Emin has composed especially for the collaboration. If you can't make it to Liberty then you can purchase yours here.