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Showing posts with label Aquascutum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aquascutum. Show all posts

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 7th-11th MAY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's apparently only been a four-day week but there have been plenty of happenings in the world of fashion for us to bring you up to speed on.

Vidal Sassoon styling Mia Farrow's hair (image from www.hellomagazine.com)
We begin on a sad but celebratory note with news that legendary hairdresser, Vidal Sassoon passed away this week at the age of 84. From a fashion perspective, Sassoon's impact was incredible. He is widely credited as creating hairstyles which freed women from the weekly shampoo and set. Not only were these liberating from a practical point of view, but the five point bob was the defining style which went with the mini skirts of the swinging sixties. What many may not know is that Sassoon spent much of his childhood in an orphanage. He also spent time in his teenage years as a militant Zionist, fighting fascists in London and then joining the Israeli army. His career in hairdressing affected women the world over, whether they had their hair cut into one of his styles, which still look modern today, or used his range of product. As many have already said, a life well lived.

The way it was (image from Guardian.co.uk)
A little more from Monday night's Met Gala now. Carey Mulligan is auctioning the amazing Prada fish scale sequin dress she wore to co-host the event on e-bay. All proceeds will go to Oxfam America. At  the time of writing, the bidding had reached $1,025 but it is widely expect to rise steeply by the time the auction closes on Saturday 19th May.

Carey Mulligan in Prada at the Met Gala on Monday (image from telegraph.co.uk)
We showed you the gowns on Tuesday. But here are a few other pics from the Met Gala and related events which we've come across this week.

Alexander Wang with Azealia Banks, wearing one of his designs, who performed at the gala (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/)
Clemence Poesy with the designer of her dress, Nina Ricci's Peter Copping (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/) 
Grace Coddington in Prada (twit pic by Jim Shi)

The Schiaparelli inspired place setting's at the dinner (twit pic by Jim Shi)

Alexa Chung and Karen Elson enjoying the night with Marc Jacobs (image from Marc Jacobs' twitter)

Grace Coddington has styled Prada's Broadway store to celebrate the Prada/ Schiaparelli exhibition...


Julian D'ys created the sculptures and masks for the installation



Images from Prada
If ever there were a tweet to flutter a thousand hearts (and more besides) then it came from Chanel this week: "Chanel has selected the world renowned actor Brad Pitt to be the face of the upcoming advertising campaign for Chanel No.5". Pitt is apparently heading to London to shoot this week. In Team FEAL's professional opinion, there's no better man to be the first male to promote Mme. Chanel's favourite perfume.
The picture which Chanel tweeted of Pitt
NEWGEN designer Thomas Tait has been nominated for the 2012 Andam prize, the prestigious fashion award judged by some of the most discerning names in business. They include Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director of Christian Dior; Pierre BergĂ©; Sarah Andelman, purchasing manager and creative director of Colette; Humberto Leon, Kenzo designer and co-owner of Opening Ceremony. Tait is nominated alongside other exciting young designers Cedric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes and Nicolas Andreas Taralis. Tait told Vogue,  'If I were to win, I would show at Paris Fashion Week, which has been an unspoken dream of mine for quite some time now'. He went on to admit that he's 'a bit starsrtuck already' by the judges who will be deciding the winner. Previous Brits to win the award, which is worth £185,000, include Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon. Good Luck Thomas!

A look from Tait's very cool AW12 collection (image from catwalking.com)
Aquascutum has been offered a lifeline this week after a deal was reached  with YGM, the company's Asian licensee. It means that over 100 jobs have been secured and will see the survival of the UK stores, concessions as well as the head office set-up. There are still ongoing negotiations to sell the factory in Corby with hopes for a purchase to be made in the coming fortnight.

Vogue's Fashion Features Director Harriet Quick is leaving to join new invitation only travel club, Luxup.  She will become Editorial Director while Averyl Oates, formerly at Buying Director at Harvey Nichols, will be Commercial Director. In addition, Sarah Mower will be the site's London curator. Quick said "After so many great years at Vogue, I am thrilled to be joining Luxup...The global traveller is a growing force in luxury retail - just witness the environs of Bond and Mount Street. On a simple level, I'm frequently stopped for directions and advice from be-puzzled Chinese visitors. On a personal level - luxury, shopping, travel? That's a wonderful world." Quick's appointment is perhaps another sign of the trend for editorial stars moving from magazines to retail and online businesses.

Dress lust of the week, aside from the Met gowns obvs, goes to Eva Mendes in her Jonathan Saunders AW12 overblown peony print dress. Adore it with the turquoise sunnies.

Eva Mendes in Jonathan Saunders AW12 (image from telegraph.co.uk)


We told you earlier in the week that Tod's owner Diego Della Valle will be reviving the Schiaparelli brand, which he has owned for several years. There have been bubbling rumours that John Galliano, out of a job since his departure from Dior last year, might come on board as Creative Director. This is what Cathy Horyn gleaned of the status quo in her conversation with Della Valle this week.

"Asked if he might consider John Galliano, Mr. Della Valle pulled a good poker face. There have been rumors, he said: “One week it’s Galliano, the next it’s someone else.” He expects to hire someone by September. Finding someone with the skill for Schiaparelli is hard enough, but many designers are used to perks and big budgets, and these don’t seem things they will find in a brand trying to create a new experience"

Farida Khelfa who has been appointed spokesperson for the Schiaparelli relaunch (image from www.zimbio.com)
Anna Wintour appeared on the Colbert Show this week. Among the topics they spoke about as President Obama's announcement in support of Gay Marriage, which came this week (yay!). Wintour said "I am thrilled. There were tears in the office atVogue today in the support of gay marriage. We're thrilled about the president". Wintour also discussed how Prada was so much more than what the Devil wears and how tempted she was to don trackie bottoms and eat chips. I'm very sad to report that I cannot find a working video of the interview yet. 

Shoe King Christian Louboutin is expanding his business with plans to enter the beauty market it was revealed today. He is joining up with Batallure Beauty LLC. Their co-chairman is Robin Burns, a longtime fan of the iconic red-soled shoes. The admiration is mutual; Louboutin chose the company because he felt Burns understood him best. THe line, Christian Louboutin Beaute, will launch late next year. And the muse? Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. 

Louboutin's beauty inspiration Queen Nefertiti (image from jezebel.com)
Finally, Dolce and Gabbana's "Italiana: An Italian Style Comedy" feels like a rather fun way to start the weekend...








THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 16th- 20th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

First up this week, huge congratulations are in order for Alex Fury who is to become Editor of LOVE magazine, leaving his current position as Fashion Director at SHOWSTUDIO.com. Here at FEAL, we are huge admirers of Alex's unmatched dedication and fashion geek factor. We always look forward to his  unique perspective in the reviews he posts from fashion weeks.

Alex Fury in Maarten Van Der Horst for Dazed Digital (from www.dazeddigital.com)
Today also happens to be the launch date of Fashion East designer Maarten Van Der Horst's collection for Topshop. Alex has been modelling the Aloha shirt from the range for Dazed Digital. Also loving the Topshop carrier bag booties!

Aquascutum's factory was established in 1851 (image from www.aquascutum.com)
The other big fashion story which has really pulled at our heartstrings, but for all the wrong reasons, this week is the news that historic Brit brand Aquascutum has gone into administration. It was then confirmed yesterday that the factory in Corby will close. This means that the 115 employees will be made redundant. The move apparently comes from an attempt to secure the jobs of the company's remaining 135 staff. In an ironic coincidence, Burberry- a brand with a heritage easily compared to Aquascutum's- is still going strong, forecasting profits of £372m for 2011. According to EDITD, the past few months have actually been extremely good for Aquascutum, their online fan base grew by over 67% over fashion month- the biggest percentage rise of any brand. Aquascutum is now looking for a buyer to revive its fortunes- somebody who can take the strength of Joanna Sykes' design ethos and use it to give the brand back its appeal.

The super cute Jospeh Altuzarra with a model dressed in pieces from his J.Crew collection (image from www.fashionologie.com)

This week the highly anticipated J.Crew collaboration with Joseph Altuzarra was finally unveiled. Both these labels usually present me with the exact kind of things I want to wear, J.Crew being a little more achievable than Altuzarra. I was ready to pay massive shipping costs to get my hands on a piece from the collection. But I mentally shopped too soon. I'm not saying I don't love a Breton stripe top or a gingham summer dress, but I expect I, and most other women who might buy this, already have several of those. They're boring wardrobe staples, not pieces you would expect one of America's hottest designers to produce. I love that Altuzarra was inspired by 'what Jean Seberg wore in Breathless and by pictures of "Brigitte Bardot walking around St-Tropez in espadrilles and a slouchy boy's sweater" but the pieces just don't have the fashion element I was expecting. I think plenty of American women will be pleased to re-stock their wardrobe with Altuzarra's classic staples but I think I'll just have to save up for the real thing... Pamela Love and Creatures of the Wind collaborations are also on their way from J.Crew.

Jean Seberg in Breathless (image from www.fashioninfilms.com)
He may have been dogged by recent rumours that Stefano Pilati is being lined up to replace him but it seems Giorgio Armani is still very much at the helm. His latest venture is designing Lady Gaga's costumes for her upcoming sold-out tour. Mr Armani's designs are right up Gaga's street with latex, crystals and plexiglass detailing galore. He said 'Collaborating with Lady Gaga is always an exciting experience for me. I admire the way she uses fashion as a scenic element and as a means to build a character'. The outfits will be worn by Gaga during the Asian leg of the 'Born This Way Ball" tour.

Gaga's guitars (and keyboard) get up, by Giorgio Armani (image from www.telegraph.co.uk)
We have a lot of shop news for you this week... first up is Celine who will be opening a store on Mount Street after a three year absence from London's streets following the closure of the New Bond Street store shortly after Phoebe Philo joined the label. Form an orderly queue at the current site of Jordan International Bank people. While we're speaking of Mount Street, Oscar de la Renta will soon open his first UK store in the premises currently occupied by Nicky Clarke. We're sad to hear that Isabel Marant's first London shop will now be opening in September rather than July as previously planned- we'll have to wait  little longer to get the full Marant experience. I am most excited by whispers that Givenchy and Erdem are looking for possible London store sites.

An Erdem shop, yes please! (image from catwalking.com)
Another week, another Olympic outfit unveiled by bother designer looking to win gold in the fashion stakes. This instalment comes from Ralph Lauren who is kitting out the American team for the closing ceremony. Whatever we all had to say about Stella's Olympic outfits, at least they don't seem to involve all white baker boy caps. I quite like the belted dress though. What do you think?

The US ladies' costume for the closing ceremony from Ralph Lauren (image from www.wwd.com)
We have another, properly exciting reason to get into the Queen's Jubilee celebrations- Karl Lagerfeld is to provide commentary on the day's outfits for French TV, as he did for the Royal Wedding. The Chanel designer is infamous for his acerbic tongue e.g his 'short skirts on fat legs' comment regarding the wedding guests. He'll appear on France 2, can we get that here?!
King Karl is set to give his view on the Jubilee outfits (image from www.galleryoftheabsurd.com)
A couple of news bites....

Carine Roitfeld has teamed up with MAC to create her own range of make-up. It'll be out in the Autumn we hear, the same time that her magazine 'CR Fashion Book' will debut.

Carven has been chosen to be Guest Designer at this year's Pitti Uomo. Lapo Cianchi, Director of Communications for Pitti Uomo said that Carven “harmonized perfectly with the general trend we are promoting at Pitti Uomo: a new, sartorial elegance and affordable luxury in men’s wear.”

The CFDA and BFC this week confirmed the dates for NY and London fashion weeks for the next two years. The announcement brings to an end a few months of wrangling over dates. It seems that Paris and Milan have stood firm on certain demands, meaning that New York will now have to begin earlier than usual.

Keith Varty with his partner Alan Cleaver and a model, in 1987(from WWD)
Finally, Keith Varty who designed Byblos during the 1980s died last week aged just 60. His friend Joan Burstein, founder of Browns said this in tribute:

"Keith Varty was the first of the first that set a standard, he was a young innovative British designer. Keith worked for Dorothee Bis in Paris before being wowed over to Italy by Gianni Versace, who then worked at Byblos. After two successful years, Keith Varty and Alan Cleaver took over. The collections could have been as modern today as it was then. He bought an infusion of talent from Britain into the Italian market."

Byblos from Spring 1992 (image from WWD)
The FashEd and I are off to enjoy the delights of the Vogue Festival now. Have wonderful weekends! 


AW10 LONDON FASHION WEEK: MY TOP FIVE SHOWS

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

London Fashion Week was excellent. It was supremely well organised with solid shows delivering the creative and commercial. Burberry came out tops for me, with special praise going to Meadham Kirchhoff.  However, my main category of good show is here. These five collections gave me the jolt of the new that I need to keep engaged in the job. These designers are, for me, pushing fashion forward into this new decade.  

JOANNA SYKES
Joanna Sykes: Love!

PETER PILOTTO & CHISTOPHER DE VOS
Peter Pilotto: How chic?
Peter Pilotto: Excuse me while I swoon...

RICHARD NICOLL
Richard Nicoll: His new proportions threaten to make everything else look dated

AQUASCUTUM
 
Aquascutum: I love you Michael Herz! Cannot wait to wear Aquascutum this Autumn.. 
Aquascutum: Freja better not have the sample of these trousers. They are mine.

CHRISTOPHER KANE
Christopher Kane: S&M florals go Scottish dancing. Where can I pre-order?
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