THE FUNNY THING ABOUT THE GREAT GATSBY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

When I began working in fashion getting on for two years ago, I remember one of the first things I had to do was look at Resort 2012 trends. Casting my eye back over that work, one of my folders is called "Gatsby". At the time, there was much excitement about Baz Luhrrman's forthcoming new film adaptation of The Great Gatsby which was being filmed at the time.

Carey Mulligan in The Great Gatsby (via telegraph.co.uk)

Thinking back, I'm not sure there's been a single week for the ensuing two years that an excited "Get the Gatsby Look!" e-mail hasn't popped into my inbox. No wonder, in a way, that lots of us were over it by the time it finally premiered at Cannes Film Festival last week. Our and America's obsession with Downton Abbey has also significantly contributed to a stringing out of the glitzy flapper girl thing. Remember Ralph Lauren's 20s and 30s English aristo homage for AW12? That seemed to plug the lull between on-set pictures of Gatsby filming, confusion about release dates and then, finally, the marketing campaign and release. Phew.

Louis Vuitton Resort 2012

Ralph Lauren AW12

Prada AW11

Before I go making sweeping comments about The Great Gatsby film, which I saw at the weekend, I should probably confess that I've never managed to read the whole book all the way through. I've reached about 2/3 of the way a few times but just found it so boring that I gave up. Seeing the film has made it my Summer's goal to properly finish and lay it to rest. It's also the best way to put paid to any actual desire, if there was any left anyway, to "get Gatsby style".

An original 20s flapper

It might not sound like it, but I love a good flapper dress up. I once had tiered, fringed dress which was not only very 20s, but huge fun to wear. You can shimmy about creating swirls and swishes of fringing around you. Don't do this on a bus though. I did and rather embarrassingly hooked myself on to an unsuspecting elder gentleman from whom I then had to disentangle myself. Fun, fun, fun. The thing about The Great Gatsby though, is that it isn't all great. The film and, from what I can gather, the book both leave a bit of a sour taste for diamonds, champagne, silk, fur and other lovely luxuries. Luhrmann doesn't stress the point but anyone with half a brain cell feels a bit grossed out by the end of the film at those excess things being ultimately associated with a quite horrible situation. If the film had ended an hour or so earlier than it actually does, then it would simply be a fun romp full of flowers, flappers, parties and pretty dresses. But it doesn't. I won't spoil it but those of you who know the story will see where I'm coming from.

Obviously, in the actual 1920s I'm sure there were lots of lovely, kind people who could also afford to charleston with feathers and jewels in their hair. History remembers them too. But for the moment, "Getting Gatsby Style!" feels not only old hat, but a bit awkward.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 15th-19th APRIL

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's back. Your weekly round-up of everything you need to know about fashion this week. Enjoy!

Prada have launched writing competition in conjunction with Feltrinelli Editore. To enter, they would like submissions at least ten pages long, written in Bodoni font on the subject:

"What are the realities that our eyes give back to us? And how are these realities filtered through lenses?"

Cleverly, this is also Prada's way of promoting their range of prescription glasses. Find out more here. 

After last week's news that Nicola Formichetti would be leaving Mugler, a surprise turn of events. Today it was announced that Thierry Mugler himself will return to overseeing shows and the design division of his label. Under his creative direction, new teams will reportedly be hired to freshen up both ready-to-wear and fragrance. No more Gaga then. The move follows Jil Sander's return to her eponymous label last year.

Demi Moore wearing Thierry Mugler in Indecent Proposal (image via onthisdayinfashion.com)

In Hedi Slimane's latest Saint Laurent trick, he has dressed up Daft Punk in sequinned jackets. it's all part of his ongoing music project in which he's worked with his favourite musician to emphasise the link between music and fashion. If you're interested in the impact of the Hedi/ Saint Laurent thing, then you should definitely read Eric Wilson's great NY Times piece which marks the first year of Hedi's tenure. Still no interview though.

Daft Punk in Saint Laurent (via timvogue.com)

It turns out that Margaret Thatcher's won't just be remembered as a lover her/ hate her politician and Britain's first female prime minister. Nope, she's also leaving a pretty strong fashion legacy. You could say that "Thatcherism" is just as much about pearls as it is about privatisation. If you need examples, here are 2. Number 1, Samantha Cameron paid her own special kind of tribute to Baroness Thatcher by wearing a pussy bow blouse to her funeral on Wednesday. Number 2, sales of Thatcher's favourite Launer handbags have seen a 53% rise in sales since her death.

Samantha Cameron in a Thatcher blouse (image via telegraph.co.uk)

Great Gatsby domination is gathering pace now that we definitely know the film is coming out quite soon. Carey Mulligan is on the cover of the latest issue of US Vogue in full flapper get-up. Grace Coddington, who doesn't usually work on covers or with celebrities, was responsible for styling Mulligan in an Oscar de la Renta gown. It is quite otherworldly. Opinions are divided online with many expressing disappointment that Mulligan isn't wearing Prada, who have worked on the film's costumes. I'm quite into it. In other Great Gatsby news, Harrods is opening a pop-up jazz bar from May 9th-20th so we can go and experience what it's like to be a bright young thing.

Carey Mulligan covers US Vogue (image via fashionologie.com)

You not have heard of Stephen Fried, but you will have heard of the word he's sorry for inventing- "fashionista". This week, Fried apologised for coining the term in his 1993 biography of Gia Carangi. Apparently, he "unleashed upon an unsuspecting public a single word of terrifying power and controversy." Poor fashionistas.

We love Man Repeller. If you do too, you should pre-order her book. Not out until September, but something to look forward to. Plus the cover is dungaree-spiration.

Leandra Medine a.k.a Man Repeller's new book (image via manrepeller.com)

In case you haven't seen it yet, here's the Dove ad which has gone viral this week. And if you want a to read a good thing to make you think about in lots of different ways, then read this from The Cut.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 7th-11th MAY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's apparently only been a four-day week but there have been plenty of happenings in the world of fashion for us to bring you up to speed on.

Vidal Sassoon styling Mia Farrow's hair (image from www.hellomagazine.com)

We begin on a sad but celebratory note with news that legendary hairdresser, Vidal Sassoon passed away this week at the age of 84. From a fashion perspective, Sassoon's impact was incredible. He is widely credited as creating hairstyles which freed women from the weekly shampoo and set. Not only were these liberating from a practical point of view, but the five point bob was the defining style which went with the mini skirts of the swinging sixties. What many may not know is that Sassoon spent much of his childhood in an orphanage. He also spent time in his teenage years as a militant Zionist, fighting fascists in London and then joining the Israeli army. His career in hairdressing affected women the world over, whether they had their hair cut into one of his styles, which still look modern today, or used his range of product. As many have already said, a life well lived.

The way it was (image from Guardian.co.uk)

A little more from Monday night's Met Gala now. Carey Mulligan is auctioning the amazing Prada fish scale sequin dress she wore to co-host the event on e-bay. All proceeds will go to Oxfam America. At  the time of writing, the bidding had reached $1,025 but it is widely expect to rise steeply by the time the auction closes on Saturday 19th May.

Carey Mulligan in Prada at the Met Gala on Monday (image from telegraph.co.uk)

We showed you the gowns on Tuesday. But here are a few other pics from the Met Gala and related events which we've come across this week.

Alexander Wang with Azealia Banks, wearing one of his designs, who performed at the gala (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/)

Clemence Poesy with the designer of her dress, Nina Ricci's Peter Copping (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/) 

Grace Coddington in Prada (twit pic by Jim Shi)

The Schiaparelli inspired place setting's at the dinner (twit pic by Jim Shi)

Alexa Chung and Karen Elson enjoying the night with Marc Jacobs (image from Marc Jacobs' twitter)

Grace Coddington has styled Prada's Broadway store to celebrate the Prada/ Schiaparelli exhibition...

Julian D'ys created the sculptures and masks for the installation

Images from Prada

If ever there were a tweet to flutter a thousand hearts (and more besides) then it came from Chanel this week: "Chanel has selected the world renowned actor Brad Pitt to be the face of the upcoming advertising campaign for Chanel No.5". Pitt is apparently heading to London to shoot this week. In Team FEAL's professional opinion, there's no better man to be the first male to promote Mme. Chanel's favourite perfume.

The picture which Chanel tweeted of Pitt

NEWGEN designer Thomas Tait has been nominated for the 2012 Andam prize, the prestigious fashion award judged by some of the most discerning names in business. They include Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director of Christian Dior; Pierre Bergé; Sarah Andelman, purchasing manager and creative director of Colette; Humberto Leon, Kenzo designer and co-owner of Opening Ceremony. Tait is nominated alongside other exciting young designers Cedric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes and Nicolas Andreas Taralis. Tait told Vogue,  'If I were to win, I would show at Paris Fashion Week, which has been an unspoken dream of mine for quite some time now'. He went on to admit that he's 'a bit starsrtuck already' by the judges who will be deciding the winner. Previous Brits to win the award, which is worth £185,000, include Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon. Good Luck Thomas!

A look from Tait's very cool AW12 collection (image from catwalking.com)

Aquascutum has been offered a lifeline this week after a deal was reached  with YGM, the company's Asian licensee. It means that over 100 jobs have been secured and will see the survival of the UK stores, concessions as well as the head office set-up. There are still ongoing negotiations to sell the factory in Corby with hopes for a purchase to be made in the coming fortnight.

Vogue's Fashion Features Director Harriet Quick is leaving to join new invitation only travel club, Luxup.  She will become Editorial Director while Averyl Oates, formerly at Buying Director at Harvey Nichols, will be Commercial Director. In addition, Sarah Mower will be the site's London curator. Quick said "After so many great years at Vogue, I am thrilled to be joining Luxup...The global traveller is a growing force in luxury retail - just witness the environs of Bond and Mount Street. On a simple level, I'm frequently stopped for directions and advice from be-puzzled Chinese visitors. On a personal level - luxury, shopping, travel? That's a wonderful world." Quick's appointment is perhaps another sign of the trend for editorial stars moving from magazines to retail and online businesses.

Dress lust of the week, aside from the Met gowns obvs, goes to Eva Mendes in her Jonathan Saunders AW12 overblown peony print dress. Adore it with the turquoise sunnies.

Eva Mendes in Jonathan Saunders AW12 (image from telegraph.co.uk)

We told you earlier in the week that Tod's owner Diego Della Valle will be reviving the Schiaparelli brand, which he has owned for several years. There have been bubbling rumours that John Galliano, out of a job since his departure from Dior last year, might come on board as Creative Director. This is what Cathy Horyn gleaned of the status quo in her conversation with Della Valle this week.

"Asked if he might consider John Galliano, Mr. Della Valle pulled a good poker face. There have been rumors, he said: “One week it’s Galliano, the next it’s someone else.” He expects to hire someone by September. Finding someone with the skill for Schiaparelli is hard enough, but many designers are used to perks and big budgets, and these don’t seem things they will find in a brand trying to create a new experience"

Farida Khelfa who has been appointed spokesperson for the Schiaparelli relaunch (image from www.zimbio.com)

Anna Wintour appeared on the Colbert Show this week. Among the topics they spoke about as President Obama's announcement in support of Gay Marriage, which came this week (yay!). Wintour said "I am thrilled. There were tears in the office atVogue today in the support of gay marriage. We're thrilled about the president". Wintour also discussed how Prada was so much more than what the Devil wears and how tempted she was to don trackie bottoms and eat chips. I'm very sad to report that I cannot find a working video of the interview yet. 

Shoe King Christian Louboutin is expanding his business with plans to enter the beauty market it was revealed today. He is joining up with Batallure Beauty LLC. Their co-chairman is Robin Burns, a longtime fan of the iconic red-soled shoes. The admiration is mutual; Louboutin chose the company because he felt Burns understood him best. THe line, Christian Louboutin Beaute, will launch late next year. And the muse? Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. 

Louboutin's beauty inspiration Queen Nefertiti (image from jezebel.com)

Finally, Dolce and Gabbana's "Italiana: An Italian Style Comedy" feels like a rather fun way to start the weekend...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: OCTOBER 10th-14th

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The Week in Fashion is back after its fashion week hiatus - it simply wouldn't have been able to keep up with all the excitement but is now raring to go again, bringing you all you need to know each and every Friday. This week we bring you images from the Frieze Art Fair, gross feet and we congratulate Sarah Mower MBE, recognised for her Services to Fashion. 

SARAH MOWER MBE
While Sarah's journalism career is stellar, it was in fact her contribution to the NEWGEN program and role as Ambassador for Emerging Talent that earned her the MBE.It is worth noting Sarah has transformed the global reputation of London Fashion Week since 2004 when she decided as she says "to become a botherer, and get young talented recognised and supported". Young designers who have been talent-spotted and/or nurtured by Sarah almost always go on to great things. See Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem, Louise Gray, Holly Fulton, Meadham Kirchhoff, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll and so on... Onto the party now, hosted by Sarah and the British Fashion Council.

Sarah Mower MBE with Melanie Rickey (aka FashEd). Sarah is wearing a coat made for her by Christopher Kane straight from the runway of his SS12 show

Sarah's MBE (via @_lulukennedy)  

Sarah and Chris Kane

Sarah receives her MBE from The Queen at Buckingham Palace (Image from  metro.co.uk)

(To see the full set of photographs of the night go here)

Photographs: Christopher James

NOW ONTO FRIEZE ART FAIR...

Leila Lavari from StyleBop.com at Frieze in the Isabel Marant navajo cardigan everybody wants (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

On Wednesday, the Fash Ed and I both visited the Frieze Art Fair at various stages of the day. We came back having enjoyed the art, of course, but also buzzing with the fashion spying opportunities on offer, Rick Owens here, Maison Margiela there, Christopher Kane everywhere. I was very excited to spot Tracey Emin and see some of her latest work. The FashEd attended a brunch hosted by Cos in the Frame section which they sponsor, showcasing the work of up and coming artists. Here a few of her favourite pieces from the exhibit...

We're still getting over Dasha Zhukova's inaugural Garage magazine cover (the Damien Hirst peel away butterfly, lest you forget), and this week the girlfriend of Roman Abramovich has supported her man by wearing a quite beautiful Louis Vuitton outfit for the court battle between her boyfriend and fellow Russian billionaire Boris Berezovsky. If the case were judged solely on the fashionableness of the participants' ladies then Abramovich would still be in possession of his £3.2 million right now but as it stands there is a load of legal wrangling to be getting on with.

Dasha arrives at court in Vuitton (image from dailymail.co.uk)

 I did bring you the news that this was on the cards, but it has now been officially confirmed that next year's Met exhibit will be a comparison of the work of Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli. To add further creative juices to the mix, Baz Luhrmann will be overseeing the retrospective. The opening gala will be co-hosted by Carey Mulligan who is currently working with Luhrmann on filming for The Great Gatsby. And, by the by, Tiffany will be providing all the jewels for the Gatsby movie. We feel a major fashion moment coming on.

The image which Baz Luhrmann released to announce Carey Mulligan's role as Daisy Buchanan (from deadline.com)

Alexander Wang has been on the peripheries of the fashion who'll-go-where-and-when saga for some time now since his name was thrown into the Dior hat. This week he told WWD:

“I always take a meeting and I always want to hear what people have to offer, but at the same time, I’ve been very content with focusing on our own brand,” he said. Wang said that if he took on an additional design gig, it would have to be something outside his comfort zone.
“If I was to do something else, I would want to do something that would be completely different from me,” he said, adding: “Sometimes you don’t get to say all you want to say in your brand.”

We could fill a book (has someone thought of doing that?!) with all the possibly relevant, yet probably irrelevant, comments we've heard in the past months but you never know.

Wang does his happy end of show bow back in 2010, now there are rumours he's moving beyond his own brand (image from harpersbazaar.com)

You have probably gathered that fashion month plays havoc with the skin, diets and general routines of all those that attend but today we ask you to take a moment to consider the humble feet of fashion show attendees and models alike. In Paris, the dust of the walk to the Tuileries has ruined the heavily invested in shoes of many a blogger/ photographer/ editor. This phenomenon was well documented on twitter, see exhibit A below. Models are no luckier; these shocking pictures of the feet of Sojourner Morrell, who walked in some of the biggest shows of the season from Marc Jacobs to Jonathan Saunders to Louis Vuitton, are one of the most extreme examples of the injuries which walking in sample heels every day for nearly a month can do. Any aspiring models, look away now...

The scourge of 'Tuileires feet' as tweeted by @candicelake

Ouch! (Image from refinery29.com)

Finally, much love for the new Sir Paul and Lady McCartney a.k.a Nancy Shevell who had a lovely looking wedding last Sunday. Fashion pundits have already said that the fact that the dress was designed by Paul's daughter Stella is the way we know this one will last; the last time Sir Paul got married, the bride did NOT wear McCartney. Sometimes a dress can speak a thousand words...

The official wedding portrait, captured by Mary McCartney (image from dailymail.co.uk)

THERES SOMETHING ABOUT 1962

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Jean Shrimpton in an Italian Vogue edition from 1962

At the end of the shows I was busy compiling my trend report as usual when the 60's trend came up on my radar. It was done best at the Parisian House of Rochas, designed by Marco Zanini, but  Balenciaga, Prada and Giles had a go too. It got me to wondering what exact moment of the 1960's had inspired the look, and mulled over who the muse might be. Jean Shrimpton? Jackie Kennedy? Brigitte Bardot? None of them felt right and I couldn't pin it down. It's here I have to hand it to the British High Street design teams and buyers. They know how to spin a trend and give it the shape they want for their customer base. On the way they sometimes manage make a trend ten times better than it seemed on the catwalk.

The 60's trend is a case in point. My Eureka moment hit at Urban Outfitters when I became enthralled by their Cambridge Satchel link-up (below), the shearling lined hiking bootees, the Harris tweed satchel collaboration, and the cute way they paired flecky grandad cardigans, plaid shirts, kilts, and yet more satchels. It was then I knew who the muse was for this whole darn trend... here she is...

Carey Mulligan just before she meets her man in An Education, set in 1962 

Cambridge Satchel

 

 

Urban Outfitters gets inspiration from Carey Mulligan in An Education and the English university style of the early 60's

New Look AW10

TopShop AW10

Lynn Barber: the real thing. I LOVE this book.

Of course, the film is set in 1962. Turns out this is the same year Tom Ford's film A Single Man is set. This put me on a trail for other significant cultural events from 1962 and following a a sixty minute journey through the Web I feel totally inspired.

Don't so many guys have this look today? Julieanne Moore could make each Rochas AW10 look her own.

A FEW THINGS OTHER THINGS ABOUT 1962:

YSL launches

The beautiful Yves Saint Laurent in 1962

Bob Dylan first album

 Francoise Hardy is (in my opinion) the sexiest woman in the world in 1962

These photgraphs are taken:

Photo credits: FEAL, Photobucket