SLOGAN TEES: SHOW YOUR DESIGNER ALLEGIANCE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The slogan t-shirt is no new thing but the statements we chose to carry around for all to see are a barometer for the major concerns of the day. Where once, it was all about an anti-nuclear protest or a declaration of love for The Rolling Stones, it's time for fashion designers themselves to have their moment. With all the hopping between houses and going up against one another in frankly ridiculous media-fanned "battles", there has never been a better time to plaster the name of your preferred creative across your chest/ back/ bag. This is way more brazen than the golden chink of bag branding or the knowing choice of the stand-out catwalk item from your favourite brand, the t-shirt shows the world exactly which team you're on. Well, providing the people around you are savvy enough to recognise the significance of the word "Kawakubo". I made the grave mistake of taking to wearing a "In Karl We Trust" t-shirt from Monsieur Steve while I was at uni which attracted numerous surprised enquiries about my new found fondness for Karl Marx. The fact I was in fact showing support for Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld went right over most people's heads. Choose your audience wisely. 

Jumping for Comme des Garcons' Rei Kawakubo (image via highsnobiety.com)

Anyway, at Browns press day last week, hot new label Les Plus Dorés which translates as something like "The Most Golden Ones" was on show. The tees are the brainchild of Benjamin Fainlight and have been a sell-out thus far from their e-tail site but happily Browns has bought into the range which lets us sartorially shout from the rooftops our love for Celine's Phoebe Philo and, perhaps controversially, Hedi Slimane. Each tee also arms us with extra fashion geek points, telling us the year the designer was born. Les Plus Dorés are due to drop into Browns anytime between now and 15th December and will be a rather bargainous £70. Thus even if a Celine coat or Comme dress is way beyond your means, you can still put your hand up to be counted among the followers of your most beloved fashion designer. You may like to peruse the offerings of Monsieur Steve who knocks up super fun, tongue-in-cheek fashion tees. I remember one showgoer at the latest round of shows demonstrating the most brilliantly ironic way to wear your "Who the Fuck is Prada?" t-shirt; with the most Prada-ish of Prada optical illusion print trousers and crystal embellished shoes, bien sûr.

DRESSING UP WITH FARFETCH.COM

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

If you're a regular reader then you will know FEAL are good friends of FarFetch.com, the fashion website which lets you shop the edit of 240 designer boutiques from around the world. It's great because it has all the ease of internet shopping but takes away some of that element which can sometimes feel quite clinical of pages and pages of stock rolling before you in a "Buy me, buy me" kind of way, with no real sense of edit. FarFetch.com allows you to enter stores from all over the world and yes, any given label will probably be stocked at at least a few stores but it will be a completely different part of the collection. That's because a buyer working for a French boutique will be catering to very different tastes to one in Latvia or the US. You can behave the usual internet shopper way and scroll through "skirts" or "shoes" OR pretend you're browsing in Miami one minute and Berlin the next. The legendary Browns has recently joined up.

Image from FarFetch.com on Facebook

This week, FarFetch.com showed that they're not just one step ahead of the game when it comes to retail, but also rather forward thinking with their engagement strategy. Enter Tuesday evening's #digitaldressup event which was like a cross between a kids party and a press day. FarFetch.com had gathered samples from the AW12 selections of some of the stores that feature on the site, including shoes and bags, laid on drinks, a photographer and bravely let a load of bloggers loose for a dress up in the pieces.  I suppose it was a little unfortunate that it felt like the hottest night of the year so there was no way that after a long day sweltering in the London heat, anyone can have felt all that fabulous or up for struggling into a whole new outfit, even if it was comprised of uber amazing designer pieces- who dares sweat in Stella? Anyway, some were brave enough and others were provided with a model to dress up rather like a life sized doll in outfits we picked out.

The FarFetch.com team challenged me to dress my model like she was going to work then out for drinks- fairly standard but obviously elevated by the fact that there were Phillip Lim clutches, J.W Anderson skirts and ACNE jumpers among the selection of pieces to choose from   I eventually plumped for a ridiculously cool red sleeved Givenchy blazer (from Concept Store Smets, Berlin), Mary Katrantzou typewriter print dress (from Feathers, London) with a bottle green Calvin Klein satchel bag (not online just yet) and Giuseppe Zanotti heels (from Dante 5 in Bari, Italy)- fashion yumminess. My main thought being the rather predictable one of wear the blazer to work then slink it off for drinks to show off your clingy, sexy yet super edgy dress.

Well done again FarFetch.com for a brilliant event concept. I can't wait to see what you do next.

P.S As we're now into SS13 fashion show season, there'll be no fashion news for a few weeks as usual but I'll be bringing you the latest from the shows and you can click on the new SS13 shows tab to watch live. Happy Weekend!

TIME FOR NEW SHOES

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Today is A-level results day which strikes fear into anyone under the age of 18 (crap, that could be me one day) and evokes strong memories for anyone who did the exams. As with many of my memories, A-level results involved a pair of shoes. The day after I found out I'd got into the university I didn't want to go to, I went on a very hungover shopping trip with my Mum and she bought me a pair of nearly thigh high suede lace up pirate boots as a reward for my efforts. Rewind to GCSE results and an abiding recollection is a pair of pink and grey striped stilettos with a huge pink bow on the front- another reward for hard-earned grades. Although my tastes were questionable, these are far more pleasant markers in my personal footwear history than the annual trip to my school's appointed shoe shop which would happen at this time each year, like clockwork, from the age of five to sixteen. It was a hugely painful wrangle to confront the fact that I had yet another year ahead of me in my regulation flat, black, boring lace-ups.

Thankfully times have changed and six years on from A-level results, the Startrites which punctuated my younger years have been replaced by much more exciting options. It is pretty obvious from my browsing, and eventual edit, that footwear is rather glitzy right now- think studs, full on metallic and more glitter from Miu Miu- I swear they're keeping the small bits of sparkle stuff industry in the black. The big game changer is glitz for day- it's now fine for trainers, everyday boots and the like to be just as blinged up as their evening counterparts. There's always further to go in the world though and I feel like I'm perhaps half way up my personal shoe Everest, at the top of which lies the most impractical, out of this world awesome and super expensive footwear- some sort of custom made Laurence Dacade/ Celine with a dash of Nicholas Kirkwood? The shoes below are also fantasies, of course. Unless by some freak of nature I pass an A-level in "Magicing from Nowhere Lots of Shoe Money". Something to work on, Michael Gove?

Giuseppe Zanotti at STYLEBOP £780

ACNE at Browns £440

Miu Miu at My Theresa £325

Laurence Dacade at STYLEBOP £625

Charlotte Olympia at Matches £465

Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem £795

Esquivel at Net-a-Porter £600

ALL ABOUT JOSEPH ALTUZARRA & HIS TOP FIVE FALL/AUTUMN PIECES

Posted by Melanie Fashion Editor at Large

I had the pleasure of meeting up with the NewYork based designer Joseph Altuzarra this afternoon at Browns where he was doing a trunk show and meeting customers and members of the press. 

                             

Me and Mr A

Still only 28 years old,  Joseph is currently on the kind of awesome - and it has to be said pretty mental - upward trajectory which only happens to one designer every few years. Joseph (never Joe) is the current recipient of the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund and won $300,000 last year to grow his four year old business. He is also, much to his chagrin, a bit of a fashion IT boy. Well, you've gotta love a designer who poses draped over a chair in one of his own snakeskin dresses, right?  

Hawt! Joseph Altuzarra shot for W Magazine

Don't let his chair work or penchant for wearing dresses give you the idea that he is a good time boy; Mr Altuzarra is certainly no intellectual lightweight and he is a worker, obsessed with his craft and constantly pushing personal boundaries with his work.  When I ask if he is happy being in the public eye, he admits "I don't want to be 'the hot designer' because that means one day the limelight will move onto someone else. I want a slow and steady progression. Look," he says leaning closer, "doing press is part of the job, but to be honest my favourite place to be is at home with my boyfriend [Seth a property dude)]and my [Schnauzer] dog Bean, watching TV.  Joseph used his prize money extremely wisely. Both his parents are investment bankers, so he knew exactly what to do, which was to move to larger offices and hire a production manager. Smart. 

That he spent the first 18 years of his life in Paris with his Chinese American mother and French father proved the starting point for today's conversation, which swiftly took us from French parochialism onto the inspiration behind his accomplished and trend-setting Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, one of my personal highlights of New York Fashion Week. 

Joseph Altuzarra Autumn Fall/Winter 2012 

One of the best everyday fashion looks for the forthcoming Autumn, hands down.

JOSEPH ON HIS FALL/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION + FRENCH PAROCHIALISM

"The starting point for me was looking at the way France is evolving as a nation. I think there are a lot of problems relating to national identity emerging as a result of the elections. French style, for example, is heavily influenced by North Africa and Asia, but actual French society is obstinately French. I guess they are focusing too much on immigration, instead of looking at integration. In the UK and USA I see 

integration. This whole idea of integration fascinated me, which reminded me of a cartoon character from my childhood called Corto Maltese. He is an iconic figure in French culture, a quintessentially French sailor who travels the world to brings back new ideas." 

As you can see Corto Maltese also likes a pea-coat, which happens to be one of the key motifs of Altuzarra's new collection. 

Corto Maltese 

ALTUZARRA ON HIS DESIGN PROCESS 

"When I am designing I try to take the best of the European and American sensibilities. There are great ideas on both sides of the pond. The design process for me involves pushing ideas through to their ultimate conclusion. Pushing the fashion hard, you know?  I guess, though, ultimately I always start with the idea of desirability. The idea of 'If I were a woman what would I want to wear right now?'   

JOSEPH ALTUZARRA'S "IF I WERE A WOMAN" PERSONAL TOP FIVE FROM HIS FALL/WINTER 2012 

"A pea coat, buttoned up and looking strict"

"Cargo pants tucked into a knee boot."

"I loved the white sweater with the fringing and coins"

"The Indian tiered dress. This a good example of taking it to the max. We pushed it with the cut and controlled drape of this dress, then just kept pushing it further and further. We pushed shape, fabric, embroidery and print. We got there. That's where the opulence in my collection came from. I've pushed things before like our cone breast cups, and these did not work at retail, but have been popular with the press. So in the end it became a strong brand statement. You've got to push, even if you end up at a dead end. " 

"My cheongsam inspired dress with the white cravat and thigh split; I love the controlled elegance of it."

With that, the IT designer whose greatest fear is being an IT designer, leaps up to meet two customers who have booked in to see him. Tonight he is off out for dinner with his good friend and London based designer Erdem.

WHAT TO BUY FROM JOSEPH ALTUZARRA NOW: all from Browns 

 Jersey panelled skater Dress £895

Chunky cotton knit lime Jumper £540

Techno Nylon jacket £1515 

All from BrownsFashion.com

With thanks to Zoe and Sarah at Zoe Communications & Browns  

FASHION STAPLES: THE BROWNS EDIT SS12

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

There are fashion staples and there are Fashion Week Staples. This post is about the latter. In 10 days time the New York fashion shows start, neatly followed by London Fashion Week and onto Milan and Paris. I've never been one of those women to dress up deliberately for the cameras at the fashion weeks; I do get snapped occasionally if I'm having a particularly photogenic day at the shows, but I dress for myself really, experimenting as I go. Of course, there are people out there who organise their outfits in advance, borrow clothes from designers and make a big and fabulous show of themselves to fan the flames of their online careers and web fashion fame. Hello Anna Dello Russo, Susie Bubble, Kristin Knox, Fran Burns and co, not to mention the hordes of fashion-obsessed students trying to get noticed. I wish I was more inclined to play the fashion game their way, but I'm not. No matter. Fashion-paparazzo not withstanding these are the clothes I want for fashion week.

I've been logging into all the major fashion websites everyday over the last ten days to see what is on their respective New In pages, and to see what makes my heart beat faster. For the high fashionista that I am right down to my marrow, Brownsfashion.com is hands down the best place to shop right now. Their edit of Kane, Balenciaga, J.W Anderson, Erdem, Carven and Alaia is inspired and I love the way they find labels that even I haven't heard of yet. I respect that their buying team, including Ruth Runberg and Francoise Tessier have the nous to order the printed Erdem trousers, say, not just his signature dresses which all the safe department stores buy. Browns have even bought into Dr Martens exceptionally cleverly, and the white-soled tassle loafers are truly edgy fashion shoes (even if, to you, they look like something a nurse at Broadmoor might wear).  Designers trust Browns and looking at their edit of Spring/Summer 2012, I can see why.  Now, I have to choose which one of these is the most worthwhile to have in my wardrobe. What would you choose?

J.W Anderson shirt

Christopher Kane skirt

Laurence Dacade boots  

Carven dress 

Erdem floral trousers 

Dr Martens loafers 

A FEW FAVOURITE THINGS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The FashEd and I have been busy skipping about London town, going to some of the myriad of press days which are taking place at the moment to showcase what will be in the shops next Spring. Before I pop out to another, I've got a minute to share with you some of our favourites from what we've seen yesterday and today....

1. BROWNS- BAGS BY SOPHIE ANDERSON

Sophie has lived and travelled a lot in Colombia and that shows in the bright pops of South American weave and traveller vibe of her bags. She stays faithful to the roots she has put down by employing four indigenous Indian tribes from around South America to weave her bags. The sleek finish and neon colour ways make these so much more than something reminiscent of a gap yah souvenir. We love.

2. STARWORKS- LULU & CO/ FASHION EAST

The Starworks Press Day was a complete treat- full of collections by some of the most exciting young designers London has to offer right now. In their midst is Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East, which is one the best ways for talent to get a leg up on the fashion week schedule. Her own label, Lulu & co works in collaboration with the designers which Fashion East supports. Lulu told the FashEd this morning that the line is about to become a whole lot more accessible, with lower prices so more people can get a slice of the action from Lulu's brood. Just the right time then to fall in love with this very elegant palm print dress with the most awesome raffia bow.

Maarten Van de Horst, one of the Fashion East designers

Cartoony fun from the Lulu & co label

Togue in cheek elegant by Lulu and co.

Raffia Bow

3. MATCHES- ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS

As you may know from the FashEd's summertime blogging, she is one of Greece's biggest fans so it's a shock she didn't actually walk out of Matches in a pair of these Ancient Greek Sandals. 

Matches told us: 'The Designer behind AGS, Christina studied shoe design at the prestigious Cordwainers College in London and then moved to Paris where she designed shoes for Iris, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga. Taking her clue from the classic Greek sandals, which have existed since ancient times she works with respect to that heritage, adding a more personal and playful interpretation, which give the collection a fresh and contemporary appeal'

We have a sneaky feeling you'll be hearing a lot more about Ancient Greek Sandals. I love the fun references to Greek mythology in the wing details.

MEET MY FASHION BROTHER

I was lucky enough to have some "family time" with my self-confessed fashion brother yesterday, Erdem Moralioglu. He anointed me his fashion sister a short while ago, in lieu of his own twin sister being away in Siberia filming a documentary. Granted, we were at Browns of South Molton Street where there was an air of quiet solicitude due to the death of Mr B, the co-founder, last week. The divine Mrs B was not present.

Erdem could cheer up any room, however, and as soon as he saw me he started trying to sell me an Alexander Wang dress from Browns 40th Anniversary collection of special edition designer "Future Collectables".  What is it with little brothers???  Guess he was just trying to fulfill his role of host and chief sales assistant at Browns on the occasion of this collection going on sale for the first time. I was more in the mood for the Margiela T-shirt (scroll down for it) I'm having a boyish fashion phase this month... Next month when I get hitched to M though will be another story.

After that he showed me the below from left: Phillip Lim, Christopher Kane (first collection for SS07, reissue) and David Koma (M.A graduation collection 2009, reissue)

Once I had declined the Wang, Erdem moved me onto his dress, "I wanted something black with a paint spatter effect," he told me, before graciously double-kissing a very rich looking client who came over looking for love. "It has a light shoulder pad, and the bottom is cut on the bias to accommodate....this will look good on any age. We've sold two today already.." Showoff.

Well, he deserves to be. Later yesterday he attended a cocktail at the Ivy Club hosted in his honour by Vogue and the BFC to celebrate him winning the very first BFC Vogue Fashion Fund. He has won £200K beating off Kane, Kirkwood and Nicoll and though he hadn't received the cheque yet, he is looking for a new member of staff, and new premises. These, of course, are the real prize.

All of the rather lovely pieces, including this Dries van Noten shirt, have special tags telling you they are "Future Collectables." Personally, I love it when designers date their clothes by season.

So why is Browns doing this? Over to Zoe, head of press for Browns. "People want what they can't find anywhere else," she told me. "Limited edition is the key to that, so Mrs B thought about what we would love to see again that has a unique Browns fashion spin. One of the pieces is the red Christopher Kane dress which, when it first came into Browns, sold out before hitting the shop floor. Another piece is the classic Balenciaga blazer. We never buy enough of them; they always sell out. We have managed to get the cost down to just over £1K." Normally these jackets are around £2K.

I'll be getting this at the weekend.

Me and Erdem: isn't the family resemblance striking?

To see more go to http://www.brownsfashion.co.uk/

'INVESTMENT' - FASHION SPEAK FOR GUILT-FREE SHOPPING! YESSS!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I love this time of year. Not just because of the milder weather and longer lighter days but because it's one of those rare periods when you don't have to feel guilty about shopping. A complete wardrobe overhaul can be justified as an 'investment' for the season ahead. I've got my eye on these little 'investments' this spring:

(From top left)

1. Laser cut waterfall fronted leather jacket, ASOS, £120. I got this last week and I can't tell you how zzzexy and expensive it looks. Leather is sticking around as a major trend for AW as well, which makes it an even better investment.
2. Floral print leggings by Hermione De Paula, Browns, £120. Since seeing her first stand alone show this season and meeting Hermione herself backstage I've become a big fan. The girl knows how to make a great print.
3. Lace up suede ankle boot, Urban Outfitters, £55. Urban is one of the first places I head to for shoes. These navy booties with cream laces are high on my wish list.
4. 'Bad Bunny' jumper, French Connection, £45. 'Bad Bunny' must be the best garment name ever! Why is the bunny bad I wonder? This looks like a nice low-key Sunday afternoon in the pub jumper to me.
5. Jersey maxi dress, Full Circle, £50. Forget floaty bohemian long-length dresses, it's all about the jersey maxi this season.
6. Blush summer dress, Hoss Intropia, £171. Gorgeous on-trend colour and a shape that works whatever the occasion. I intend to picnic in this little dress come summer. Check out the new Hoss Intropia store in Covent Garden for impeccable service and lots more demure dress options.
7. Backless mule, River Island, £44.99. I never thought I'd see the day I wanted another clog (the last time I wore one I was 9. It was patent lime green. Hot huh?) but lo, that day is here. I love this clog's Fashion Junior friendly price as well.
8. Cats eye sunglasses by Luella, ASOS, £68. Not quite as amazing as the Alexander Wang ones, but a pretty close second. Cats eye is obviously the shape of choice for the season. A good 'investment' wouldn't you agree?