'INVESTMENT' - FASHION SPEAK FOR GUILT-FREE SHOPPING! YESSS!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I love this time of year. Not just because of the milder weather and longer lighter days but because it's one of those rare periods when you don't have to feel guilty about shopping. A complete wardrobe overhaul can be justified as an 'investment' for the season ahead. I've got my eye on these little 'investments' this spring:

(From top left)

1. Laser cut waterfall fronted leather jacket, ASOS, £120. I got this last week and I can't tell you how zzzexy and expensive it looks. Leather is sticking around as a major trend for AW as well, which makes it an even better investment.
2. Floral print leggings by Hermione De Paula, Browns, £120. Since seeing her first stand alone show this season and meeting Hermione herself backstage I've become a big fan. The girl knows how to make a great print.
3. Lace up suede ankle boot, Urban Outfitters, £55. Urban is one of the first places I head to for shoes. These navy booties with cream laces are high on my wish list.
4. 'Bad Bunny' jumper, French Connection, £45. 'Bad Bunny' must be the best garment name ever! Why is the bunny bad I wonder? This looks like a nice low-key Sunday afternoon in the pub jumper to me.
5. Jersey maxi dress, Full Circle, £50. Forget floaty bohemian long-length dresses, it's all about the jersey maxi this season.
6. Blush summer dress, Hoss Intropia, £171. Gorgeous on-trend colour and a shape that works whatever the occasion. I intend to picnic in this little dress come summer. Check out the new Hoss Intropia store in Covent Garden for impeccable service and lots more demure dress options.
7. Backless mule, River Island, £44.99. I never thought I'd see the day I wanted another clog (the last time I wore one I was 9. It was patent lime green. Hot huh?) but lo, that day is here. I love this clog's Fashion Junior friendly price as well.
8. Cats eye sunglasses by Luella, ASOS, £68. Not quite as amazing as the Alexander Wang ones, but a pretty close second. Cats eye is obviously the shape of choice for the season. A good 'investment' wouldn't you agree?

BARBIE SHOWS US HOW TO DO SS10!

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

My former assistant Hannah Almassi, now the fabulous Style Hunter and the fashion features assistant to the superchic Kay Barron at Grazia, has a blog (yes, her too!) called fashionfoibles.blogspot.com and today she showed me what she had been up to this weekend. Namely, the below....

Yes, Hannah has been re-making clothes for her Barbies all weekend in the spirit of the SS10 collections. The results, showcased on her blog are, I think, pure genius. The Stella and Kane ones were my favourites, and Hannah forwarded me the JPegs so I could share.

There is a very good reason for this weekend project. Hannah's parents are about to move house and she was taking a trip down memory lane (as you do when you are going through boxes of childhood stuff from the attic) and found 30 Barbie dolls, two Ken dolls, a Barbie and Ken caravan and lots and lots of clothes from the late 80's and early 90's and got carried away. As you do.

According to her mother, Hannah was found sat on the floor in the same position she used to sit when she was five playing with her dolly's. Cute, cute cute. Apart from gaining a bit more insight into Hannah's childhood than I expected for a Monday, I nevertheless instantly understood why Hannah came to study for a B.A in fashion design, and how she came to work at Grazia and become the success she is.

When I questioned her inspiration for the Barbie project Hannah responded with her characteristic half smile and a toss of her mane of hair and said, "The reasons are so deep I think it will take some time to answer the question." 

We don't need the answer just yet, but in the meantime see if you can recreate the last Chanel show using your Barbies, Kens and perhaps the caravan in place of the barn? You just need a bit of hay and some mini-clogs and can turn one of the Ken's into a mini Karl, then Barbie and Ken can start rolling around in the hay.....

You're the best Hannah Wannah!
xxxx

MORE JOSEPH SS10!

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

It's taken me a while to get back to Joseph SS10 part II. A while that has been taken up by an exciting POP magazine commission, and getting my new logo installed as well as widening the visual register of the blog(thanks hapsical you are the best fashion blog geek ever). This is proper progress, and I have been jumping around the living room in a mental kind of hyper joy while my dog Walter looks at me wondering what the hell is going on, while outside thick snow is falling..

I have been having personal wardrobe issues with fashion of late. I don't feel that many designers are catering directly to me/my generation - me and Kate Moss, Stella Mc, Gwyneth Paltrow are of the age group in question.

So I'm pleased that Joseph is making waves in my head. I'm connecting its relaxed sexy urban look with luxe basics labels like Helmut Lang and rebuilding my idea of what fashion is for me, and how I can communicate who I am in a way that feels right with my clothes.

So here are the rest of my Joseph hot picks for Spring 2010 part one is here.
6.

I'm really into Lame for SS10. Joanna Sykes for her Sykes label has done the best silver Lame suit for spring 2010. These trousers are fab. Who knew the harem pant thing would become so mainstream? Olivier Theyskens was a pioneer when he introduced the drop crotch pant at Nina Ricci for AW2008.

7.                                                       

In terms of everyday fashionable legwear the noughties were dominated by skinny jeans, and then by leggings. So it follows that as we depart the decade the two should have become one. The great thing about a jean/legging is that though body-hugging, the garment won't require a crappy rendition of the Single Ladies video dance to squeeze into them. For Spring 2010 jean/leggings will be a staple, and these are damn good ones. As are the those by James Jeans which my colleagues on the fashion team at Grazia are obsessed with.

8.

This woven leather jumper is just what I would wear if I had toned, fit body and was working from my condo on Venice Beach overlooking the ocean. I would take my lunch break and rollerblade up and down the boardwalk. I would wear a bra underneath though.

9.

Charles Anastase is a Parisian designer on the London scene. I like his aesthetic - and I LOVE his fashion illustrations, so am delighted Joseph collaborated with him on this T as well as a few other designs.


That's it on my Joseph own label examination for SS10. My next Joseph investigation will be to reveal which Givenchy and Haider Ackermann looks they have bought for the new season; writing that post will be a form of self-torture.


Want more? Then head to Joseph where they've got Charles Anastase at home on Joseph TV and an Isabel Marant interview.

FIRST LOOK AT URBAN OUTFITTERS' SS10 COLLECTION!

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large

Fashion Junior at Large was flying solo at the Urban Outfitters press day this afternoon, as Fashion Editor at Large was super busy with other important and exciting projects.

I utterly heart Urban Outfitters, and these are the top ten pieces I saw today

I thought I was the only one in the market for bumbags, but Fashion Editor at Large quite fancies this one as well.

Seems a shame to hide this set away under clothing doesn't it? Might not have to though if the underwear as outwear trend continues to gather momentum.

Sheer, simple, pretty - the perfect canvas for some creative inter-seasonal layering no?

Leather shorts are the absolute number one on my spring shopping list, and these tailored ones are definitely hitting the spot.

Umm, AMAZING! French brand Shourouk was created by a former Lanvin jewellery designer, which pretty much says it all.

Loving the bare shoulder effect on this Surface to Air number. Tees with a twist are always a winner.

Wonderful Acne always manage to make the most plain designs lovable. The wide neck line gives it a little something as well.

Plaid shirt from Wrangler - the authentic cowboy brand according to Ms Fashion Editor at Large. It couldn't be any cooler really.

Revamped Cheap Monday jeans with mesh panelling (left), and leather inserts (right). Very special indeed.

Note to self: don't cancel the gym membership yet. Crop-tops ain't goin' nowhere.

FASHION & WISDOM FROM JANE SHEPHERDSON

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

My favourite black trousers from Whistles SS10

Last night I honoured an invitation extended by London College of Fashion (of which I am an alumnus) to sit on a debating panel to discuss whether women can succeed in the world of fashion. My fellow panellists were Jane Shepherdson, CEO of Whistles, Zowie Broach one half of Boudicca and Danielle Scutt. The debate was chaired by Professor Penny Martin, who also happens to be the editor of forthcoming new womens's magazine The Gentlewoman (from the same publishing house as Fantastic Man). We had a full house of eager students.

You might think, as I did, when I first heard the topic for discussion "yeah of course women can succeed in fashion, fashion is mainly a woman's arena." I was wrong to think that. When I relayed that thought to Rebecca Munro of LCF she batted the below back at me.

"The talk is timed to coincide with Women’s Enterprise Day on November 18th, which is part of a national campaign, Global Entrepreneurial Week UK (identical weeks run globally) and is all about celebrating successful female entrepreneurs and business leaders to inspire our students (the majority of whom are female) to take risks and be confident in their careers choices. Although I agree women are a dominant force in fashion – the majority of shareholders and CEOs are male and many women in fashion (like many other industries) have experienced some sort of discrimination during their careers. Of the 4.7 million UK enterprises, only 15% are led by women which I think is one reason why we have to encourage our students, especially our female students, to not be afraid of setting up businesses and turn their skills into money making enterprises."  

Very interesting, no?

ANYWAY. The debate turned out to be lively, compelling and I found it genuinely inspiring. Jane Shepherdson had a lot to say. All of it very telling. Here are a couple of her choice comments. All food for thought.

ON HOW SHE GOT TO THE TOP...
"I had to buy my own business to be a CEO; that's how hard it is to run your own company in fashion."

ON THE GLASS CEILING...
"I came up from buying and merchandising to become a CEO.  At Arcadia Group 95.5 per cent of the buyers and merchandisers are women. But when you go upstairs to see who is running the business, it is all men."

ON HOW TO SUCCEED...
"Be single minded. There will be shit, deal with it. Think "I'm going to show them". Do it your way. Accept confrontation."

ON THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WORKING WITH WOMEN TO MEN...
"Women work harder and spin more plates. They tend to be more collaborative."


And while we are on the subject of Ms Shepherdson, here is more from the SS10 collection of Whistles.

The fashion junior at large put these on her wishlist for SS10.

FIRST LOOK AT TOPSHOP'S SS10 COLLECTION!

Posted by the Fashion Junior at Large and the Fashion Editor at Large.


Just came in from the Topshop press day and couldn't wait to report back. Feast your eyes on our favourite things from the SS10 collection...

Love the clogs. Chanel better watch out!

This washed leather jacket with no sleeves made me want to dump my longtime leather love Rick Owens for a spring fling.

According to Karen Bonser the design director of TopShop this jacket uses a technique called cornelli. Don't you love the way the light catches this?

 

Will DEFFO be buying these boots in SS10

The TopShop press day had 101 ways with a denim short. I really liked the way there was pretty embroidery on roughed up denim. Juxtaposition!

A fairy tale skirt done in urban grey chiffon. Wear with a roughed up T and a shrunken leather jacket for the key TopShop look of SS10

 I've been feeling for a rounder sunglass, and TopShop are on the pulse with this one

 A floral long line bra top covered in gold studs. YES PLEASE!

This high-waist floral mini-skirt was laden with lingerie detailing.A clever way to do the lingerie trend. This is the Fashion Junior at Large's favourite

This is a digitized animal print, blown up. Like it.

FASHION IN CLOSE UP

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

I was just going through my pictures from the press days, and apart from being in a thrall to my girlfriend's camera - a sexy black Nikon D90 - I continually marvel at the incredible detail a multi-million pixel digital camera picks up. Its all too easy to think of high fashion and connect that mentally with a catwalk image and forget about the craft and hours of skilled work that goes into a finished garment.
So just because I can, I'm posting close-ups of some of the SS10 pieces I've been admiring recently.

McQueen fabric

                                                                                                                                                            

A hand-finished corset top with beading and lacing by Antonio Berardi

Galliano shoes that come with a detachable bangle, so the heel of your shoe matches your bangle. 

This the bottom section - as in rear end - of another McQueen dress

A close-up of an Erdem fabric. Exquisite. I would like to put it on my wall.

Leather cut out jacket by Graeme Black. I would love the technicans behind all these fabrics to talk me through sometime.

A TRIO OF FASHION SHOW REVIEWS BY LOUISE WILSON

FROM THE FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE IN PARIS....

First, a gratuitous picture of the gorgeous Natalia Vodianova that I took from my perch at Stella McCartney this morning. I’ve been thinking about doing this blog properly for too long. Time to do get on with it! And what better way to start as I mean to go on, than by kicking off with the most straight-talking women in fashion, Professor Louise Wilson, OBE, head of the MA course at St Martin’s. A significant majority of the best young designers working in the world of fashion design today are her former students, and she is held in high esteem by all (that is, if they're not scared of her). These include Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Sophia Kokosalaki and many others. This weekend Louise Wilson was invited to Paris fashion week by Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, her first trip to the Paris shows since 1986. (“Because I’m always in my f***** office.”) I caught up with her at the ‘Guy Bourdin: His Movies’ launch at Le Bon Marche, met Alber Elbaz (jeeezus!) popped a glass of Champagne into her hand, and asked for her personal reviews of the catwalk shows she has seen so far. I was laughing so much while she recounted her views on Margiela that I could barely decipher my notes afterwards. Over to you, Louise!

Louise Wilson and Alber Elbaz last night at 'Guy Bourdin: His Movies' launch at Le Bon Marche in Paris.

LOUISE WILSON ON MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

“It was horrific on many levels. Having been a long term fan of Martin Margiela you wanted to weep at how a parent company cannot enable their designer. How anyone with a modicum of understanding of the house of Margiela could produce things as bad as that, (Style.com), I don’t know. How anyone could clap for a skirt as long as a runway I cannot imagine, unless they were the people who made the damn thing. The giggling models, and streamers that burst from the lighting rig at the end of the show also ruined it for me.”

“Martin Margiela has left his house because they could not enable him in his work. His work had integrity. I never knew he used Italian mixed jersey. [What she means is, he didn't use the fabric, ever. So further proof he is not actually working there]. The company [Staff International, owned by Diesel founder Renzo Rosso] doesn’t know the brand, and should know better. The show I saw wasn’t trying to appeal the the faithful fans of Martin Margiela, of to lure in new fans, or attract the young to the brand. I don’t know who they were trying to appeal to, maybe a motorbike rider in Rimini?”

Maison Martin Margiela photos by Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

BACKSTORY: (It was confirmed at the weekend that press-shy Belgian Martin Margiela has departed the label he founded in 1988 after it was bought by Diesel owner Renzo Rosso and both clashed on the direction of the company. Rosso told WGSN that Margiela had "left a long time ago". Meanwhile my source says he finally left the building early this year, and had little to do with his Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, and nothing whatsoever to do with the one just presented in Paris. His die-hard fans are in mourning. Though on an up-note for those still pining for genuine Margiela designs, I hear that store-buyers are finding plenty at the showroom. Small consolation, but a consolation nontheless.)

LOUISE WILSON ON LANVIN

“ What I thought of Lanvin was it restored my faith in fashion. It rocked, and it felt young. A lot of fashion is not young enough. And this also felt like an event from cocktail to final dress. What I liked was the angriness; the sexuality; the colour; the crassness of the beading. I think every young designer looking at it should endeavour to put that much work into a collection.” Lanvin SS10 photos by Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

BACKSTORY: (This was mine, and everyone else’s for that matter, show of the week (so far, anyway). Alber recieved a standing ovation at the end, and while watching it, you felt instinctively that this was the best a fashion show could get.)


AND FINALLY, LOUISE ON COMME DES GARCONS...

“Loved the pieces. Loved the silhouettes, but it didn’t feel new. I am someone who is constantly searching for new, and feeling 99.9% of the time that I don’t see it. When I look at the way Comme present their shows I think it’s old fashioned. They are only talking to a certain kind of person. [She means conceptual] The clothes could be relevant for totally different people. I could see some of these as event dresses, for an audience entirely unlike the one they currently have. I am about applauding people trying to do new. If they can’t take that forward themselves what hope is there? It’s like not changing your hairstyle for years. You can get trapped in a look."
CDG SS10 photos by Chris Moore/Catwalking.com

Thank-you Louise. Now all we have to do is find that biker from Rimini you were talking about.