LONDON FASHION WEEK AW11: THE HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR #1

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

We're into day three of LFW. It gets majorly busy from here on in, but we've found an hour to share what is inspiring us.

   JONATHAN SAUNDERS DIVINE MODERN ELEGANCE

This collection puts Jonathan in the big leagues for me

The designer totally reinvented his print technique, the mix of print and graphic is brilliant

 J.W ANDERSON SHOW

Fierce faced model Hannah Noble at J.W Anderson. This  outfit is so fresh, young and accomplished looking. More surprising still that this is the designer's second womenswear collection.  

  

DANIELLE SCUTT COMEBACK

Danielle Scutt back on the runway off-schedule Saturday morning after self-imposed exile. It was a tightly edited very Danielle-at-her-best kind of show. Sexy and fierce all at once with great gold jewellery piled on. We really like the fake-hair tassel earrings. Tassel earring being most popular also in New York. Danielle is a talent who finds the limelight hard, but she worked it and produced a collection to be proud of.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND NAUGHTY & NICE JUMPERS

Henry's friends tittered on the front row when this jumper, modelled by this butter-wouldn't-melt demure young lady, appeared on the catwalk. At the end of his show Henry took his bow wearing one. In slang sign-language it apparently means "shall we fuck?". Though we would like confirmation of this. Any sign language experts out there?

Henry also did some more tasteful looks, such as this. Jumpers/sweaters whatever you call them, are going to be major for AW11. Love the pearl detailing on this jumper. Also the orange/yellow flecked herringbone tweed trousers are special. Its a young royal, gone cool. I feel strongly that Henry is stepping smack-bang into the fashion territory vacated by Luella Bartley whern her business closed down. Smart boy.

CHARLES ANASTASE FRENCH DOLLY GIRLS

Double-breasted coats, jackets and car-coats are popping up all over the runway. A huge trend in the making too, is that for looping a seemingly endless woollen scarf multiple times around the nek to create a scarf larger than an in-flight-pillow. Oh and wide-leg trousers are here to stay.

WILL UPDATE MORE LATER!

FASHION & WISDOM FROM JANE SHEPHERDSON

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

My favourite black trousers from Whistles SS10

Last night I honoured an invitation extended by London College of Fashion (of which I am an alumnus) to sit on a debating panel to discuss whether women can succeed in the world of fashion. My fellow panellists were Jane Shepherdson, CEO of Whistles, Zowie Broach one half of Boudicca and Danielle Scutt. The debate was chaired by Professor Penny Martin, who also happens to be the editor of forthcoming new womens's magazine The Gentlewoman (from the same publishing house as Fantastic Man). We had a full house of eager students.

You might think, as I did, when I first heard the topic for discussion "yeah of course women can succeed in fashion, fashion is mainly a woman's arena." I was wrong to think that. When I relayed that thought to Rebecca Munro of LCF she batted the below back at me.

"The talk is timed to coincide with Women’s Enterprise Day on November 18th, which is part of a national campaign, Global Entrepreneurial Week UK (identical weeks run globally) and is all about celebrating successful female entrepreneurs and business leaders to inspire our students (the majority of whom are female) to take risks and be confident in their careers choices. Although I agree women are a dominant force in fashion – the majority of shareholders and CEOs are male and many women in fashion (like many other industries) have experienced some sort of discrimination during their careers. Of the 4.7 million UK enterprises, only 15% are led by women which I think is one reason why we have to encourage our students, especially our female students, to not be afraid of setting up businesses and turn their skills into money making enterprises."  

Very interesting, no?

ANYWAY. The debate turned out to be lively, compelling and I found it genuinely inspiring. Jane Shepherdson had a lot to say. All of it very telling. Here are a couple of her choice comments. All food for thought.

ON HOW SHE GOT TO THE TOP...
"I had to buy my own business to be a CEO; that's how hard it is to run your own company in fashion."

ON THE GLASS CEILING...
"I came up from buying and merchandising to become a CEO.  At Arcadia Group 95.5 per cent of the buyers and merchandisers are women. But when you go upstairs to see who is running the business, it is all men."

ON HOW TO SUCCEED...
"Be single minded. There will be shit, deal with it. Think "I'm going to show them". Do it your way. Accept confrontation."

ON THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WORKING WITH WOMEN TO MEN...
"Women work harder and spin more plates. They tend to be more collaborative."


And while we are on the subject of Ms Shepherdson, here is more from the SS10 collection of Whistles.

The fashion junior at large put these on her wishlist for SS10.