THE WEEK IN FASHION: JANUARY 14th-18th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Everything you need to know about fashion this week is all compiled here in a handy little post. Swot up then get out in the snow...

John Galliano makes a comeback (image via thinkboutique.com)

TODAY'S BIG NEWS: John Galliano is making his tentative first steps back into fashion with a short residency at the studio of his long-time friend Oscar de la Renta in the run up to his AW13 show. Galliano opened up to WWD, confessing that 'I am an alcoholic', going on to speak about his recovery and regret at the events which led to him leaving Dior in March 2011. He added that "I am grateful to Oscar beyond words for inviting me to spend time with him in the familiar surroundings of a design studio." Galliano has been spending time studying the history of anti-semitism as well as meeting with the Anti-Defamation League.

There has been a big focus on menswear this week, with the AW13 shows taking place in Milan and Paris. Here are a few of the highlights...

RAF SIMONS... Notice the neck tie's similarity to Stephen Jones' scarf creations for Raf's Dior debut. In other Raf news, a collaboration with Adidas was also unveiled during the Paris show.

PRADA... Surprising simplicity, with messy collars and shirt tucking

LOUIS VUITTON... Kim Jones' luxe Himalayan adventure

All menswear images via Style.com

Alexander McQueen today confirmed that their AW13 show will be scaled back to an 'intimate presentation' to allow Creative Director Sarah Burton to begin her maternity leave in peace. The deisgner is expecting twins and looked rather heavily pregnant when she received her OBE in December. The decision is a further sign that the fashion industry is getting with the time when it comes to being kind to designers.

Sarah Burton gets her OBE from Prince Charles (image via telegraph.co.uk)

American Vogue has got itself into hot water this week with a shoot based on Hurricane Sandy. The images feature models in new season looks posing with emergency workers including doctors and even on a coastguard boat. The accompanying feature tells the story of those that helped during the crisis in October so was probably intended as a well-meaning tribute to their efforts but plenty say it's in poor taste. Perhaps this is Anna Wintour's way of combining her current fashion magazine duties with setting herself up for a diplomatic or political post during Obama's second term?

Doctors plus SS13 Marc Jacobs

Army plus SS13 Proenza Schouler

Staying with the US, President Obama's inauguration for his second term takes place on Monday. While the world waits to see what he has planned for what is usually a more bold programme as thoughts of re-election are not an issue, fashion watchers are also keen to see what Michelle Obama will wear. Shallow as that may sound, the impact she has made is considerable and this is a really great piece summing up those changes.  In the same way that Duchess Kate got a fringe before a very important event (announcing her pregnancy), so FLOTUS debuted her 'bangs' yesterday via her brand new Twitter account. We love.

Michelle Obama got a fringe (image via twitter.com/flotus)

It's not a complete surprise but yesterday we found out that Rihanna x River Island will launch with a catwalk show during London Fashion Week. It will take place on the Saturday and of course RiRi herself will be in attendance. Anyone keen to buy won't get their hands on the collection until March 5th.

Rihanna was a big attraction at last February's Stella McCartney LFW party

One extremely good reason to get excited about the Oscars is Quvenzhané Wallis, the 9 year-old actress who is the youngest ever to be nominated in the Best Actress category. She has been setting up huge expectations for her red carpet look with her penchant for doggy handbags and age- appropriate part dresses. She recently sang to André Leon Talley that 'fashion is my kryptonite' while The Telegraph has dissected her love for a canine themed bag.

Quvenzhané Wallis wins best Young Actress at the
Critics Choice awards (image via huffingtonpost.com)

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 25th-29th JUNE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Cloak by Giles Deacon and Jeremy Deller (image from guardian.co.uk)

We're sandwiched right in the middle of Britain's two big events of the year- the Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics- so this week was an apt time to launch Britain Creates, a collusion of fashion and art. Designers such as Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou worked with artists including Jeremy Deller and Mat Collishaw to create pieces for the exhibtion which underlines the creativity at work in the UK in 2012. The open brief given to the collaborators has resulted in an array of artworks from hats to sculptures.There was a launch and charity auction on Wednesday evening at Selfridges but the pieces will be on public view from 6th to 29th July at the V&A which has worked on the project with the British Fashion Council.

Screen print by Jonathan Saunders and Jess Flood- Paddock (image from guardian.co.uk)

Wednesday was a busy evening as it was also the night that the much anticipated auction of pieces from Daphne Guinesses' wardrobe took place at Christie's. It was a night of records after £133,250 was paid  for a Mario Testino portrait of Guinness- the highest sum a piece of his work has ever reached. The record price for a McQueen was also smashed after £82,250 was bid for an empire line gown which Guinness originally wore for a Harper's Bazaar shoot. All proceeds from the auction will go to the Isabella Blow Foundation. There are plans afoot for an exhibition of Blow's vast fashion collection which is now owned by Guinness.The dress's winning bidder was none other than Lady Gaga and Guinness took to Twitter to thank the star for her contributions:

'And, THANK YOU my friend Lady Gaga. You are a real person. and a great one! Your proof of friendship, your time was very touching XXXX'

Gaga replied:

'I am a passionate fashion collector & feel honored to support The Isabella Blow Foundation. Daphne Guinness is a pioneer for artistic women'

Daphne Guinness in the record breaking McQueen dress (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Fashion show attendees can always depend on Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to put on a mega glitzy extravaganzana each season. The Italian design duo are now adding their name to the couture calendar with a show in their native Sicily on July 9th. However, the press will not be allowed in to report on the glmour as the event will be reserved for clients- only. It's an interesting move after Dolce and Gabbana's more affordable line, D&G, was shut down this year. This is another sign that the big money spenders who demand made-to-measure gowns have not gone away during the financial crisis. Now the mere mortals among us are left to mourn the fact we won't get to see anything from what is sure to be a molto fabulous occasion. 

A look from the gold and gilt-full Dolce and Gabbana AW12 show (image from catwalking.com)

It's been a nostalgic week for Spice Girls fans- myself very much included- after the launch of Viva Forever, a musical based on the songs of the 90s group. It's been written by Jennifer Saunders and produced by Judy Cramer. From a fashion perspective, the girls have come a long way since the pigeon -holed days of Sporty, Ginger, Baby etc. Melanie 'Sporty' Chisholm had swapped crop tops and adidas for a white tiered Acne dress and Victoria 'Posh' Beckham was naturally in a dress of her own much lauded design. The only Spice who hasn't moved on it seems is Geri 'Ginger' Halliwell who eschewed a designer number for the big appearence, instead making her own dress with a little help from Emma 'Baby' Bunton. It's safe to say that this DIY jobbie will not achieve the same fame as the Union Jack dress she ran up out of a tea towel for the Brits in 1997.

Spices reunited (image from telegraph.co.uk)

In other Spice news, the girls are apparently planning to auction many of their outfits- including the Buffalo boots which we think may be about to have a bit of a revival- for Save the Children and Children in Need. There are also whispers that Victoria is expanding her fashion portfolio even further with a collection designed with Sarah Jessica Parker, who previously dipped her toe in design waters with her role as Creative Director at Halston.

Beckham's new collaborator: Sarah Jessica Parker, who
 previously worked on Halston Heritage (image from marieclaire.co.uk)

Huge congratulations to Paula Reed who is leaving Grazia to become Fashion Director 
at Harvey Nichols. Her move continues the growing trend for moves from editorial to
 retail. Last year, long-time Vogue Fashion Editor Kate Phelan moved to Topshop while 
Lucy Yeomans has recently left her editorship of Harper's Bazaar to edit Net-a-Porter's
 magazine. We can't wait to see Harvey Nichols with Paula's touch.

Image from philltaylorblog.blogspot.com

The Paris Menswear shows are in full swing after Milan earlier in the week. Vogue Italia 
editor Franca Sozzani took to her blog to tell the world that a lot of what she sees at menswear
 shows 'is not a nice sight for anyone'. She was referring to 'cropped pants and polo shirts,
 so tight they showed through, depending on the body’s shape, toned-up biceps or curved
 bellies'. It's an interesting perpective when many Womenswear catwalk shows also contain
 looks which are far beyond the reach of the every day woman. However, let's not dismiss
 menswear altogether. Raf Simons' show won the praise of many for his collection this
 week which does, admittedly, have some of the elements Sozzani discusses- short shorts
 and big pink coats (a trending item after J.W Anderson also did one). Then there's Kim
 Jones' collection for Louis Vuitton which was a film-like nautical dream full of outfits
 I'm sure Sozzani would love. The quote of the day from Mr Jones? "I wanted to do a 
luxury version of things that are real" 

RAF SIMONS

A man version of the coats from Raf's last Dior collection (from catwalking.com)

Evidence of Mr Simons' art and archtecture obsession (image from catwalking.com)

 LOUIS VUITTON

I want to go on holiday with Kim's boys (image from catwalking.com)

Also at the menswear shows, history is being made with the longest fashion show ever, courtesy of Band of Outsiders. It's set to go on for 60 hours and you can watch what's going on in the Paris gallery where it's taking place by clicking this link. There is just one, as yet unidentified, model taking part and he changes every 90 minutes. The final three hours, tonight, will see guests invited into the space with the entire collection on show. A little bit of genius from Scott Stenberg, Band of Outsiders' Creative Director.

The model in the longest fashion show ever eating his dinner (image from fashionista.com)

Ever wondered what Karl Lagerfeld is doing when you hop on the bus to work or set off to the pub in the evening? Well now, you can find out after  the Chanel Creative Director told Harper's Bazaar the ins and outs of his daily routine. We learn that no hot drinks pass his lips, mornings are spent in a white shirt of 17th century design and all he seems to eat are steamed apples. Completely fascinating. 

A day in the life of Karl Lagerfeld (Karl's own photo, from harpersbazaar.com)

More music costume nostlagia now. This time from Lourdes, daughter of Madonna. She tweeted a photo this week of herself wearing a cone bra, the very same style made iconic by her Ma. This is the 2012, MDNA version, complete with hip caging, designed by the original creator himself Jean Paul Gaultier. I'm pretty sure every girl would like to have her moment in a cone bra- and who hasn't tried to recreate it using plastic cups? Lucky Lourdes gets the real thing. 

We wish you happy weekends with this video which has reignited our love for Lana del Rey. All you need to know is that she plays Jackie Kennedy while Rocky is J.F.K. It's beautful in a VERY Lana way...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 16th-20th JANUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Almost-Weekend...

This week we start you off with a delightful preview of the award winning documentary about Bill Cunningham the original street style photographer; the film has its British premier on February the first. Bill is a living legend.

"Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life."

 Bill Cunningham

Chanel is off to Japan! Lagerfeld and his team have planned three events as a special treat for their Easternmost fans. In March, there will a winter couture show, a pop-up shop and an exhibition entitled 'The Little Black Jacket'. The exhibition, on for seven weeks, coincides with a book of the same name which Lagerfeld is working on with Carine Roitfeld, showing celebrities and other brand favourites, in their Chanel jackets.

Chanel waves the flag for Japan

More bumper business news from across the retail spectrum this week as Burberry, ASOS and Primark all posted recession defying results. At Burberry, there was a 22% increase in sales with particular strength, unsurprisingly, across Asia. It's the brand's stalwart pieces which are performing best- coats and luggage. While it is well-acknowledged that luxury labels aren't suffering as much as might be expected from the global downturn, word on the high street has been somewhat bleaker; Peacocks was the latest store to go into administration this week. However, Primark and ASOS are proof that the fittest survive. Primark announced a 16% leap in profits for the last quarter while ASOS saw an 18% increase in its share price after profits rose 10%, thanks in the most part to its global reach.

Cara Delevingne and Eddie Redmayne in their trench macs for the SS12 campaign (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

 After much wrangling amongst the organisers of the big four fashion weeks, the clash of dates which looked set to overshadow the SS13 season has been resolved. For attendees, this means that fashion month will kick off earlier than usual with the New York shows beginning on September 6th. Steven Kol, CEO at the CFDA rightfully pointed out that 'there's no value for the cities to compete'. So, there will be no choosing between Katrantzou and Gucci, or Pilotto and Versace for those who skip to all four events.

Piero Tosi with director Luchino Visconti and Dirk Bogarde on the set of Death in Venice in 1971 (image from vogue.it)

 Louis Vuitton has teamed up  with Rome's Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia (Italian National Film School) to bring the worlds of fashion and film closer together. Over three years, there will be a number of projects to support Italian film and young filmmakers, such as workshops and scholarships. One of the first schemes to get underway will be a costume workshop focusing on 17th century design, with Italian costume designer Piero Tosi acting as a key participant. Like Tods, which is in the process of taking on responsibility to restore the Colosseum, Vuitton has taken it upon itself to contribute private money to protect another integral part of Italian culture, at a time when the public purse cannot stretch to such limits.

Hatmaking at the film school (imae from WWD.com)

On January 24th, a Prada museum will pop-up in Paris for 24 hours. Conceived by Francesco Vezzoli and the AMO Think Tank it could have the potential to create a bit of a 'moment' as its brings together films and sculptures which represent iconic women including the likes of Lady Gaga. The event will kick off with an exclusive dinner and club night before opening up to the public, who will now doubt rock up early to see the invited guests tumbling out. The three museum spaces, historic, contemporary and forgotten, will provide the backdrop for Prada and Vezzoli's message about femininity now. It may sound a bit obscure, but anything with the Mrs Prada stamp on has got to be fab. Talking of Miuccia, she got herself in hot water this week when she appeared to criticise the Met's new exhibit which will compare her with Elsa Schiaparelli. She told WWD:

“It’s too formal; they are focused on similarities, comparing feather with feather, ethnic with ethnic, but they are not taking into consideration that we are talking about two different eras, and that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposite,” said the designer before her show on Sunday. “I told them, but they don’t care,” she said with a shrug, resigned rather than upset.

A statement was later released by Prada which claimed her comments were 'taken out of context' and that she was  'honored and proud to be taking part in the exhibition'.

Miuccia Prada on the cover of iD in April 2009, designed by Francesco Vezzoli (image from designscene.net)

After last week's quick dip into the sartorial goings-on in the US Presidential election, FEAL's world news radar turns to the Olympics  where a row has broken out among the boxing community. The point of contention is whether female contenders should wear shorts or skirts. And it's not just a question of what is the best performing item, it does actually come down to the 'fashion' element. Skirts were first worn so that spectators could differentiate between the boy and girl boxers. Polish and Romanian coaches say that skirts should be worn because they create 'a more womanly impression' and are 'more elegant'. We're not sure that elegance is the first priority of any sportsperson looking to win a title so we're supporting  Elizabeth Plank's petition for boxers to able to choose, just like every other girl can!

The Menswear season is in full-swing, moving to Paris yesterday after Milan earlier in the week. At Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones fused Japanese and Parisian influences; the work of illustrator Antonio Lopez was cited by the designer  as a starting point. Further along, the Okujun silk spinning was used to create an ivory suit. The technique is UNESCO protected, and only 20cm of yarn can be produced in one day. The Vuitton show also mirrored a wider trend which began in womenswear to use more Asian models on catwalks.

One of the Asian models who walked at Vuitton (image from WWD.com)

Love this high shine parka/anorak, a nod to Japan on the belt (image from WWD.com)

 Lanvin is launching its first eyewear collection and has made a video to underline the artisan approach it's taken to the range. Along with De Rigo, Lanvin has applied the same levels of artistry to the glasses as it would to its clothes. While the video may not have the catchiness of the dance of late 2011, it serves to remind us of the level of craft which sets designers like Lanvin apart. The question on everyone's lips, which ones has Alber ordered?

THE WEEK IN FASHION 20TH-24TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

This week in fashion has been all about making up, breaking up, love and hate. It's been emotional.  Here's our look at the goings on from the fashion playground over the last 5 days...

 Galliano's last couture collection for Christian Dior. There will probably never be anything like this ever again.

1) The big one. John Galliano's trial took place on Wednesday at the Paris magistrates court. Just in case you were under a rock/in rehab/on the moon when the scandal broke, Galliano is being sued on moral grounds for an alleged anti-semitic, racist, and generally offensive rant directed towards three people in a Paris cafe earlier this year. He also subsequently lost his job at both Dior and his own label. It's a really sorry state of affairs, which has seen a former shining light of the industry reduced to a shadow of his normal gregarious self; hidden away in a rehabilitation program since the alleged attack, his future remaining highly uncertain and bleak.

He appeared in court to explain his behaviour (apparently a consequence of problems with drink, drugs and stress) and the result of the trial will be announced in September. This is undoubtedly a very dark moment for both the designer and the industry, and the case should be given the coverage it deserves - however is the slew of commentary about the outfit he wore for his court appearance really necessary? With that in mind, I won't be posting a picture. If you do crave a blow by blow account, the Telegraph have it covered in their live blog.

 

Tania Fares, Bella Freud and Lulu Kennedy, all in Lulu &Co

2) In a much friendlier turn of events, this week Lulu Kennedy hosted a lunch to celebrate the launch of the latest Lulu and Co collection. According to a certain Fashion editor at Large who happened to be in attendance, "the whole of London" turned out for the fashion feast, proving that there is a lot of love for Lulu. The new collection will be in stores from August.
 
3) Back to the business of bitching, and Azzedine Alaia has exploded with the outburst to end all outbursts, and the subjects of his disapproval are one Karl Lagerfeld and one Anna Wintour.

 Grace Jones and Azzadine Alaia. Who do you reckon is scarier? Read on to find out...

Lucky it was no-one important, eh? According to Alaia, Karl "has never touched a pair of scissors in his life", and "no-one will remember" Anna Wintour. Despite her scary rep, Alaia claims that when the Editor-in-chief of US Vogue sees him, "she is the scared one." Somehow, we're not surprised! 

4) As far as fashion relationships go, this week has been more on and off than Made in Chelsea's Caggie and Spencer (oh! the drama!). After joining in the whoops and hollers that followed the announcement of a Versace and H&M collaboration, the industry was subdued by the news that Jil Sander will no longer be designing for Uniqlo, and the next J+ collection will be the last. There were audible sobs emitting from fashion editor's offices across the city. If you are a fan of the Sander/Uniqlo collab, you better start preparing for the last offering now; it will no doubt be elbows at dawn when it hits stores.

Jil Sander: no longer + Uniqlo

5) Florence Welch 'got the love' from Nylon magazine (sorry, that was terrible) when she hosted a party at the Mondrian Hotel in New York, to celebrate their music issue, of which she is the cover star. Florence can do no wrong in my eyes; she is consistently beautiful, inspiring and unique. Her choice of this quirky Anna Sui dress for the party has divided opinion, but the people who don't like it are, well, wrong.

Flo: it's good to see you back. New music soon please!

6) Fashion doesn't get much more friendly than bestest buds Leith Clark (Ed of Lula) and Kirsten Dunst, who are rarely seen at events without each other, and have obviously been having a bit of a girly week out and about in London town. These two are so close, they are even co-ordinating outfits like schoolgirl best friends do - but you know what? They are so cool, they can get away with it.

 Leith and Kirsten looking demure yet achingly stylish at Wimbledon  (nice sunnies, Ms Clark!) ...

...and just a little bit naughtier as they skip out of The Box in matching trenchcoats. Kirsten&Leith4Eva!

7) And finally, a little bit of eye candy to put a spring in your step this sunny Friday afternoon. The SS12 Menswear shows have been happening over the past week and yesterday's offerings from Paris were causing ripples all the way over this side of the Channel. Friend of the Fash Ed, Kim Jones, sent his debut Louis Vuitton collection down the catwalk to rave reviews, with critics hailing his arrival as the best thing to happen to the label since Marc Jacobs.

 Louis Vuitton SS12

However, before Kim Jones took Paris by storm, one other designer had got everyone hot and bothered. Twitter exploded, pictures were being sent round the world, journos who normally pay no attention to the menswear collections were suddenly clicking onto Style.com like there was no tomorrow.

Five words: Nicola Formichetti, Mugler, ARMOUR BOY.

Mugler SS12

Images: Splash, Getty, AFP, Style.com

A FIRST LOOK AT OASIS SS10!

Posted by the Fashion Editor at Large

I really enjoyed the Oasis press day for Spring/Summer 10. The people there are my friends and I was lurking around watching the whole press day get organised, so on the day itself I actually didn't attend like a journalist, more like I had a cuppa and chatted to the design team about how their collection seemed to go down with the press.  Oasis have really raised their game lately, they have an excellent shoe and handbag designer in Emma Christmas and the Creative Director Nadia Jones (sister of Kim Jones) has taken the brand to a new level. Go Girls! And boy - Iain Ewing is the talented head of design there.  Oh and not forgetting Yellowdoor whose art team concieved the lookbook. So because I wasn't marauding around with my girlfriends camera (she put her foot down yesterday, and I bought my own one today - a spanky Lumix G1) I asked the team for a sneak preview of their SS10 lookbook, and in that way chose my Oasis top ten pieces. So here they are.

Black suede pencil skirt with fringe panel. Mmm..this one is as good as the ACNE one I saw in Paris.

These leggings make me happy. They have a Cirque du Soleil meets Pans People thing thing going on

Loving grey suede for SS10. This is a fringed biker jacket. Very Garth Brooks in Manhattan

I'm probably a bit late picking up on this shoe shape. Surface to Air did some similar, and Chloe Sevigny also created some a bit similar for Opening Ceremony. These are my first bet for the fashion shoe of next season.

This is how I will be dressing on next summers jaunt to Patmos. I like how the stylist Fran Burns used the belt of the cotton printed shorts in the models hair. Oh and a denim jacket with fringing and gold chain? Give me some!

This is my favourite piece I think. I'm so into these African prints at the moment. I'm call them Traveller Prints. They are the sort of thing you wear when you've cut loose from urban life and chilled out so much you've got to the point where going to the shop is a big event in your day. I imagine finding a dress like this in a hot dusty street market, buying it, and living in it all summer. Need baggy pants in this fabric too.

                                                                                                                                                        

Oasis are always doing clever little mini-collections, and this dress is part of their naive Trompe L'oeil range.                                                                                                                                                

I saw Olivia Palermo in a pale grey trouser suit the other day, and it reminded me that a woman can look very sexy in a suit in the daytime, and not at all butch. Olivia has inspired me, and this is two-piece definitely on my shopping list for spring.

One of my Grazia colleagues, Siobhan, is really backing the shift dress for spring. I didn't see the shift dress thing at first viewing of the collections, but now the shows are over I am seeing them everywhere. This is a lovely dress.

Ok, so I will not be wearing spray on jeggings (or in normal speak jean style leggings) next season. Heaven forfend. But I think anyone with a touch of flamboyance about them will be able to carry of this suede tunic with copious fringery. And it is in pale grey suede! Mmmmm.