THE BEST SLOGANS IN THE NEW MARC BY MARC JACOBS COLLECTION

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Read all about the sparkling, energetically, brilliantly new Marc by Marc Jacobs in Alexander Fury's great piece about Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley's new vision for the brand. My favourite bit is the last few lines…

"They’re clothes to live in, for God’s sake. And when so many designers are creating clothes that seem like machines not for living, but for catwalking in (not even real walking, not in those shoes), Bartley and Hillier’s practical outlook is tantamount to a revolution. Which, incidentally, was one of the words printed onto those motocross-inspired garments.

Then again, so were “Be Nice” and “Bunny Hop”. So maybe we shouldn’t read into them too deeply. This collection wasn’t about intellectual claptrap, just clobber. Good clobber, too."

And here are a selection of those empoweringly meaningless slogans (all pics via style.com)…

NYFW AW13: CREATURES OF THE WIND GROWS UP

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

We are huge fans of the Creatures of the Wind guys, Shane Gabier and Chris Peters, at FEAL. We'll put it out there... this is pretty much the best start to AW13 we could hope for. Just the right balance of the boys original aesthetic with a new slick, grown-up edge which is very appealing indeed. Behold, five brilliant first looks at the new season...

Images via Style.com

NYFW SS13 : BIG HEADS ARE BACK!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

No, no New York designers have not cultivated a new breed of large headed model. If you're a veteran reader of this blog, then you may remember that before my time, Melanie and George (my predecessor) would choose their personal favourite looks from the shows and photoshop on their own heads to create "Big Heads". It's almost too early to tell what the big trends of the season are going to be- though I'm putting my money on clean lines, stripes and anything spacey- so now is an ideal time to indulge my own personal fantasy array of looks I'd like to be working next Summer. Aaaah, we can but dream...

1. MARC JACOBS

Anyone who knows me at all well will be aware that I have a whole shelf of my wardrobe dedicated to Breton tops. I think there were nearly 40 in the pile at the last count. So, you'll understand why Marc Jacobs' show, in the timeless words of Lady Gaga, "made my fashion pussy wet". Need I say more?

2. ALTUZARRA

Pretty scallops, black and gold and a tentacled cape jacket thing make for the ideal evening number. Of course, the whole look is finished off with knee high both/sandal things which seem to be rather prolific on the NY catwalk this week.

3. BOY BY BAND OF OUTSIDERS

It was Scott Sternberg's first solo outing at Boy. He cited The Hunger Games as a thought provoker for the collection so for one could be forgiven for thinking the clothes might rags and combats. Thankfully not. I might not wear three tie-dye items together in reality but I love each one of these easy pieces for their summer breeziness.

4. CREATURES OF THE WIND

Lady without being "lady" sums up this lovely look from Shane and Chris's first proper show. Also a brilliant lesson in doing peplums in a manageable, non scary way.

5. DEREK LAM

So easy, so chic but zingy and golden. I dream of dressing with this vibe every day.

6. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

On paper, pink dungarees should probably be reserved for pregnant people and decorators from the 80s but Mr Lim's totally awesome take on the now oft avoided item made them a real possibility. I definitely couldn't carry them off with nude booties but I love the thought of these with a leotard underneath and heels for alternative cocktail outfit. 

7. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

 I enjoyed 3.1 Phillip Lim so much I had to choose two looks. I'm pretty sure these t-shirts will become SS13 must haves. The subversive upside down love heart is a nice new direction for the slogan tee.

8. THEYSKENS' THEORY

If you're in the market for tailoring, Theyskens is talking to you this season. I was more drawn to this easy, sporty, sparkly ball gown though.

9. ALEXANDER WANG

Oh Wang, I adored your trekky athletic vibe. I'm still marvelling at the ribbon down the models' partings to look like some kind of futuristic barcoding or messaging system. This dress is worth hours of shoulder honing for. 

10. WES GORDON

I like to think this is what Betty Draper would wear in 2012. So very delicate but with that smudgy khaki print, Wes Gordon is definitely one to keep a watch out for.

SS13: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK IS HERE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's that time of year again people, we're about to see what designers think we should be wearing next Spring/ Summer. Here follows four weeks of almost constant shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris, hundreds of thousands of tweets, a myriad of new ideas from designers and the formulation of loooooong wish lists as we see new things we simply cannot live without. I can't wait.

There are so many places to keep up with the action including Style and NowFashion which are putting up live looks. I've just pulled this beauty from the Creatures of the Wind feed as it live updated. Brilliant.

Creatures of the Wind live from New York via Style.com

We're going to have a live feed of some of the shows from New York and London, after tomorrow it'll move to a new tab so remember it's there (don't worry, I'll keep reminding you and you'll see it at the top of the page!). From New York, you'll be able to see the likes of Charlotte Ronson, Diane Von Furstenberg and Reem Acra live as they happen then you can see many, many more on demand afterwards including the much anticipated Holmes and Yang show. In case you didn't know, the Holmes in that belongs to the former Mrs Tom Cruise, Mother of Suri hence the anticipation for the label's first NYFW outing- that's at 9.30am local time ( next Wednesday by the way.

Coming up on this feed we have...

Richard Chai at 11am (4pm in UK)
Tadashi Sodji at 2pm (7pm in UK)

Tomorrow...

Rebecca Minkoff at 3pm (8pm in UK)
Nicole Miller at 6pm (11pm in UK)
Charlotte Ronson at 7pm (Midnight in UK)

Check here for the full schedule and ENJOY SS13 unfold before you.

                   

NYFW: A STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

New York Fashion week will end tomorrow with the much anticipated Marc Jacobs show- always looked forward to of course but an extra frisson this season given the intense speculation that the designer will soon be making a move from Vuitton to Dior. Meanwhile, the FashEd and I are busily preparing for the beginning of London's turn on the SS12 merry-go- around. I am particularly excited given this is the first time that I am in some way a real part of the event which I have long read about and dreamt of attending. As somewhat of an aside, I would thoroughly recommend to any readers in that same position I was in just a few months ago (or any reader really) to read Lisa Armstrong's account of her journey to becoming a Fashion Editor. Even the Editors at the very top of their game began blagging their way into shows and adoring the industry they now play a pivotal role in from afar.

So what's been going on at NYFW? Well, there have, apparently, been clothes as well as pregnant pop mega stars and newborn Beckham babies but who'd have known? The clothes are what we here at FEAL want to share with you now. In the coming weeks and months we'll be sharing a tighter edit of the trends which emerge from the shows. But now, in the midst of things, I have picked some looks which jumped out at me.

Narciso Rodriguez: We can already be quite certain that a dropped waist will be an important silhouette. The dress below gives this normally straight and stark detail a modern fluidity. Cut on the bias and not quite at the usual dropped level, we recognise the reference but it's something new too. And the colours whisper 'Summer holiday'.

Narciso Rodriguez SS12

 Theyskens' Theory was true to form in its easy wearability. The loose, deconstructed pocket trousers are a sure hit. I will dream tonight about those shiny versions, will someone invite me to a reptilean fancy dress party please? The jacket and the drop-waist dress make one think of the original purveyor of clothes women could live in, Mlle Chanel. But then we look to the feet and the models are being sent down the runway in these trillion inch heels. Rebecca Lowthorpe at Elle asked, via Twitter, that if Theyskens is so keen to dress women in clothes which they will be comfortable in, then why would he include such preposterously proportioned footwear? I can only think that they might add an element of legend and implausibility for a designer who doesn't want to become too literal- he perhaps wants his customers to feel there is an uncrossable canyon between what they see on the catwalk and what they buy and wear themselves. That show quality. But Theyskens was also playing with our minds a bit because his final look, the most heel-deserving of them all, was styled with worker boots. Maybe he just wants us to mix it up a bit more? Or maybe he thinks if Gaga can do it, why can't every other woman?

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Alexander Wang SS12

 Another trend which has been brewing since the last round of Spring/ Summer collections and now looks to have full- on exploded, is the printed suit/ top and trouser combo. My favourite thus far is Alexander Wang's for its mesh overlay, leather trim and flash of ab. The faded panel which bring the trousers to a high-waist is a genius twist which helps to break up the print bombardment. I am also fascinated by Wang's hats which look like a deconstructed version of the fun feline ones for Autumn/ Fall which the FashEd blogged about at the weekend. Either that or they look like bags on the models heads. The graphic suit is very Star Trek.

Alexander Wang SS12

Rodarte

 Designers often cite obscure sculptors or little known architects among their inspirations, which I do love. It means fashion is always expanding my horizons and making me look at things I would quite possibly not have come across otherwise. HOWEVER, the Mulleavy sisters cited Sleeping Beauty and Vincent Van Gogh as their references for this collection. A zany combination but probably familiar to most of us without having to furiously google something we've never heard of before. And the clothes are a testament to their deft handling of this pairing. It was refreshing also to see that Rodarte is looking across all decades for its shapes, prints and embellishments. There is a lot of room in this collection for the woman's own idea of who she wants to be.

Rodarte

Sophie Theallet

 As I read Meenal Mistry's synopsis of Sophie Theallet's show, I saw that Romy Schneider was one of Sophie's muses for this collection. This actress is important right now, given that Erdem used her as a key inspiration for his Resort offering. Theallet's collections was particularly influenced by La Piscine which Romy starred in alongside Alain Delon. I have provided a video as a taster. In case you don't speak French, she begins by saying she is only happy when she's with him and then, a few seconds later is telling him how annoying he is. Sexual tension is key and that backless dress is a key symbol of that. Romy is definitely somebody I will be writing more about at a later date. In the meantime, Sophie's clothes are rather lovely don't you think?

Sophie Theallet

And finally, Preen. This is by far my favourite so far. The colours make my mouth water. The peplums and frills take a silhouette which is familiar to a new level. It has sometimes been hard to imagine where print might go next with all the amazing work we have seen from the likes of Mary Kantrantzou and others. Bregazzi and Thornton have undoubtedly brought something very subtle but nevertheless new to the table which makes me go WOW, WOW, WOW!

Preen

Preen

Preen

Preen

All images from Style.com

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: THINGS THAT MAKE ME GO WUUUUU

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I am not at New York fashion week. Want to be there, but couldn't justify the cost in time out from LFW prep and cost. I try make myself feel better about the fact I'm not there by telling myself that - and this is purely personal - only two handfuls of NY designers showing are properly relevant to the global picture of fashion. The rest are successful and pertinent in their homeland.

My NY stars are Marc Jacobs (+ Marc by Marc Jacobs), Alex Wang, Jason Wu, Philip Lim, The Row, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Diane von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren. Also these days I can't not look at Joseph Altuzarra, Peter Som and Prabal Gurung to see what they are picking up on.

Though, as a side-thought, and in a kinda nostalgic way, I am loving that Tara Subkoff has properly brought her label Imitation of Christ (IoC) back to life in the form she originally created it back in the late nineties. Tara was feted then, and she and her friend Chloe Sevigny (who worked on the label too) were the coolest girls in NYC.

An older and wiser Subkoff did a runway show Thursday at the ballroom of the W hotel in Union Square that doubled as the actual wedding of model/actress Lydia Hearst to a man who, according to Susie Lau is called Miles. Though, from the impression I get no-one thought it was real at the time. Surely turning a genuine wedding into a fashion show (or is it the other way round?) is a fashion first?

N.B  SEPTEMBER 13th UPDATE, The Cut blog reported over night that Lydia Hearst claims she is not married after all, and remains resolutely single. So the most twsitedly cool fashion event of NYFW was a stunt after all!

Lydia Hearst and her un-identified new husband. (Image Racked.com)

IoC, in its original form, showed wonderful, crafty and romantic ways to re-work vintage, and seeing the girls dressed in1930s flapper dresses, and depression-era-seeming tea dresses as they wandered dreamily down the aisle made me wish I was at this particular happening.

I want it all. Imitation of Christ by Tara Subkoff

So, as I am not in New York, I use subscription only catwalking.com for visual close ups, flick onto Graziadaily.co.uk to see what our style director Paula Reed is up to and of course, for its complete hose-down of everything that breathes at any given fashion week, Style.com. I have been a fan of style.com since it began in 2000, and still miss my friend Sarah Mower's writing on there, (she's now at American Vogue's website, critiquing. A site, despite forcing myself to be patient with it, I find painful to navigate) though Tim Blanks and Nicole Phelps have stepped into the empty chief critic position at Style with aplomb.

ANYWAY..I've been dreaming of and waiting patiently for the day that on a catwalk site like style.com, a still catwalk image would be accompanied by a moving image, (what a geek). And this morning, when having some face time with the Jason Wu collection -  massive fan of his work and all that - I saw the day had come!  A button to the left of the image says "move It!" and boom, sure enough when you press said button on look 11, Jourdan Dunn - in a black lightweight parka with a decidedly 40s's hourglass/fishtail shape, gym shorts, and a pink lightweight knit over a cute-collared shirt - look, she walks!

Here are the looks from the show that made me go Wuuu...

Jason Wu SS12 (catwalking.com)

With his Spring/Summer 2012 show Jason Wu has picked up with some tiny trends that were emerging at the last shows, and run with them. Namely peplums, an hourglass silhouette of tiny waist and full volume at hips, pretty pink, acid-ish yellow, decorative collars and wearing the same print top-to-bottom. His look is very European American; and this collection is most definitely for a modern, young and cool version of Grace Kelly. Top marks.

MY PICK OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK AW11

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

In our feverish excitement two days before London Fashion Week, we are getting to grips with the trends coming out of New York. While we edit the collections, it's becoming something of a tradition for us to 'try on' our favourite looks - so brace yourselves for the return of the Big Heads...

Here are my choices, which as per usual do not involve any trousers. I'm still on a quest to discover a pair that truly inspire me, maybe LFW will offer some better choices! Tune in tomorrow for the Fashion Editor's no doubt superb selection.

 The ultimate date outfit: A stand out look from the incredible Marc Jacobs collection. The stunning details, perfect colour combinations, sheer sleeves and peter pan collar are so. flipping. hot!

Weekend romanticism courtesy of Rodarte. I can't imagine a more perfect dress to wear with wellies and a cardigan and go kick leaves in. It's a little bit 70's, a little bit country and western, and a lot Little House on the Prairie. 'Anne of Green Gables' hair plaits optional. 

 

 The pure fashion outfit, for fashion meetings, in fashionable cities, by Preen. The California Art and Crafts movement provided the inspiration for the lovely, colourful patterns, so this outfit gets bonus geeky points for an art reference. Part of me wants to frame it.

 

 Rodarte - again! This collection was too brilliant to choose just one outfit from. I am making a wildcard prediction that dusky blue hues are going to be the colour of the season, and this high necked, delicate dress would be ideal for a special lunch party or for when you want to look particularly intriguing.

 

The red carpet dress by Monique Lhullier. It was love at first sight. I don't have many black tie events to attend this autumn, but if I did, this would be the dress I would like to wear. I will enjoy wearing it in my dreams.