NYFW SS13 : BIG HEADS ARE BACK!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

No, no New York designers have not cultivated a new breed of large headed model. If you're a veteran reader of this blog, then you may remember that before my time, Melanie and George (my predecessor) would choose their personal favourite looks from the shows and photoshop on their own heads to create "Big Heads". It's almost too early to tell what the big trends of the season are going to be- though I'm putting my money on clean lines, stripes and anything spacey- so now is an ideal time to indulge my own personal fantasy array of looks I'd like to be working next Summer. Aaaah, we can but dream...

1. MARC JACOBS

Anyone who knows me at all well will be aware that I have a whole shelf of my wardrobe dedicated to Breton tops. I think there were nearly 40 in the pile at the last count. So, you'll understand why Marc Jacobs' show, in the timeless words of Lady Gaga, "made my fashion pussy wet". Need I say more?

2. ALTUZARRA

Pretty scallops, black and gold and a tentacled cape jacket thing make for the ideal evening number. Of course, the whole look is finished off with knee high both/sandal things which seem to be rather prolific on the NY catwalk this week.

3. BOY BY BAND OF OUTSIDERS

It was Scott Sternberg's first solo outing at Boy. He cited The Hunger Games as a thought provoker for the collection so for one could be forgiven for thinking the clothes might rags and combats. Thankfully not. I might not wear three tie-dye items together in reality but I love each one of these easy pieces for their summer breeziness.

4. CREATURES OF THE WIND

Lady without being "lady" sums up this lovely look from Shane and Chris's first proper show. Also a brilliant lesson in doing peplums in a manageable, non scary way.

5. DEREK LAM

So easy, so chic but zingy and golden. I dream of dressing with this vibe every day.

6. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

On paper, pink dungarees should probably be reserved for pregnant people and decorators from the 80s but Mr Lim's totally awesome take on the now oft avoided item made them a real possibility. I definitely couldn't carry them off with nude booties but I love the thought of these with a leotard underneath and heels for alternative cocktail outfit. 

7. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

 I enjoyed 3.1 Phillip Lim so much I had to choose two looks. I'm pretty sure these t-shirts will become SS13 must haves. The subversive upside down love heart is a nice new direction for the slogan tee.

8. THEYSKENS' THEORY

If you're in the market for tailoring, Theyskens is talking to you this season. I was more drawn to this easy, sporty, sparkly ball gown though.

9. ALEXANDER WANG

Oh Wang, I adored your trekky athletic vibe. I'm still marvelling at the ribbon down the models' partings to look like some kind of futuristic barcoding or messaging system. This dress is worth hours of shoulder honing for. 

10. WES GORDON

I like to think this is what Betty Draper would wear in 2012. So very delicate but with that smudgy khaki print, Wes Gordon is definitely one to keep a watch out for.

SS12's SILVER LINING

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

I’m going to confuse you horrendously now because instead of telling you about fashion weeks and what you might be wearing in six or eight months time, I’m going to talk about SS12 a.k.a what to wear and buy right now. September and February are both months which require seasonal gymnastics in the minds of fashion lovers because we're obsessed with what's coming out of the fashion weeks- see yesterday's and Monday's posts- but we're also feeling that now is the time to shop for the months ahead which means rewinding to the stuff we were getting excited about back in September. Silver is what I want to buy right now.

Silver ruffles at Sarah Burton's Alexander McQueen SS12

There’s rarely a time when metallics are distinctly unfashionable, after all they’re fun, good for evening party dresses and go with pretty much anything. But for Spring/ Summer, if you want to be in fashion then sheeny silver is the metallic to go for. In my book, silver is the nonchalant and much cooler younger sibling to revved up. full watt glam gold. 

 The sheen element which lots of designers gave silver for SS12 is very important. It taps into two of the season’s broader trends; Modern Sportswear and Under the Sea. The subtlety which comes from a sheen is much more in keeping with these moods.  Chanel's drawstring maxi silver skirt is the ultimate case in point. The fabric and cut is techy and futuristic, while the floor skimming length conjures the modern girl's version of a mermaid's tail, especially when styled with a translucent, gilled vest.

Chanel SS12

Olivier Theyskens did a similar thing at Theory. For those of us who are not good with full on dressed down, and therefore a bit worried about embracing sportiness in our wardrobes, Theory is a good place to go because the silver in this slouchy tee takes it up a notch or two in the dressed up stakes. The silver looks amazing next to denim too.

Theyskens Theory SS12

At Givenchy, the slithers of silver flounce trims bring to mind the lights bouncing off the fins of deep sea fish.

Givenchy SS12

Andy Warhol's Silver Clouds, 1966

Giles SS12

There were hints of silver at countless SS12 shows, but the most dedicated to the cause was Giles Deacon. His set resembled walking into a roll of tin foil (in a good way!). It was apparently inspired by Andy Warhol's room of Silver Clouds. Giles used numerous silver and swan inspirations in a collection which was really quite opulent. Having said that, this dress is super simple- the shape nods to sportiness. But the more-than-sheen-silver makes it properly beautiful.

At Christopher Kane, the use of silver was more sparing but it illuminated a collection which was about 'the girls you hated at school'. The metallics transported the initial inspirations of bullies and peeling council house wallpaper into a infinitely more angelic and heavenly realm. That's the power of silver.

Christopher Kane SS12

So, what to buy in silver? To my great regret, I will be limiting my personal silver purchases to accessories. This is due to a traumatic childhood experience in which a silver dress I wore to be a star in a nativity production was confiscated because it 'drained' me. Even though I now have access to blusher, I still can't face the memories. For those of you still able to wear silver, I've mixed in a couple of brilliant silver basics.

Acne's pistol boots have become pretty ubiquitous and much copied. They are the boot to buy if you need a one item route to looking on trend. So, we were pretty thrilled to see that MyTheresa has a limited edition run of 50 silver pairs since yesterday. They're not sold out just yet, but hurry.

Silver Acne pistols £400

 I bought a pair of wedges similar to these in Topshop's sale. I think they're great for taking the super sweet edge off a lot of what we'll be wearing this season.

Topshop £75

River Island £40

Alexander McQueen at Matches £560

Topshop £22

All catwalk images from catwalking.com

PREFALL AW12: GETTING TROUSERED

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

As a fashion editor I'm supposed to be analysing the just launching prefall collections to give you a steer on the where fashion is going, but instead I'm shopping for myself.  This is to be expected as the prefall collections are, certainly for me and my friends, the richest source for the designer clothes we hone in on and buy as they arrive at the shops in late summer.

I'm not a woman who buys an off-the-runway look. However fabulous it is, give me the stuff I can wear over and over again please. As a dedicated wearer of trousers (today I'm wearing my navy "Cult of Nobody"jeans AGAIN) I have been looking for inspiration for where to take my trouser style, and happily found it from my personal current favourite crop of designers. These are: Carven, Theyskens Theory, Preen, and Givenchy. Celine is currently off my list as the Autumn collection was too heavy to wear for normal London life, and way too expensive.

Sometimes I feel like the only trousers obsessed woman on the block... Its not that I don't like dresses, I can rock a dress like the best of them, but I love wearing trousers. Are there any more of you out there?

Theyskens Theory Prefall AW12 - these leather jeans are effing gorgeous

Giles Prefall AW12 - digging the flares again

Preen Prefall AW12 - a good shade of orange

Givenchy Prefall AW12 - loving this whole look to the max

Carven Prefall AW12 - i think you would call these "slacks" now theres a word I haven't heard for a while

Images are courtesy of the designers

NYFW: A STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

New York Fashion week will end tomorrow with the much anticipated Marc Jacobs show- always looked forward to of course but an extra frisson this season given the intense speculation that the designer will soon be making a move from Vuitton to Dior. Meanwhile, the FashEd and I are busily preparing for the beginning of London's turn on the SS12 merry-go- around. I am particularly excited given this is the first time that I am in some way a real part of the event which I have long read about and dreamt of attending. As somewhat of an aside, I would thoroughly recommend to any readers in that same position I was in just a few months ago (or any reader really) to read Lisa Armstrong's account of her journey to becoming a Fashion Editor. Even the Editors at the very top of their game began blagging their way into shows and adoring the industry they now play a pivotal role in from afar.

So what's been going on at NYFW? Well, there have, apparently, been clothes as well as pregnant pop mega stars and newborn Beckham babies but who'd have known? The clothes are what we here at FEAL want to share with you now. In the coming weeks and months we'll be sharing a tighter edit of the trends which emerge from the shows. But now, in the midst of things, I have picked some looks which jumped out at me.

Narciso Rodriguez: We can already be quite certain that a dropped waist will be an important silhouette. The dress below gives this normally straight and stark detail a modern fluidity. Cut on the bias and not quite at the usual dropped level, we recognise the reference but it's something new too. And the colours whisper 'Summer holiday'.

Narciso Rodriguez SS12

 Theyskens' Theory was true to form in its easy wearability. The loose, deconstructed pocket trousers are a sure hit. I will dream tonight about those shiny versions, will someone invite me to a reptilean fancy dress party please? The jacket and the drop-waist dress make one think of the original purveyor of clothes women could live in, Mlle Chanel. But then we look to the feet and the models are being sent down the runway in these trillion inch heels. Rebecca Lowthorpe at Elle asked, via Twitter, that if Theyskens is so keen to dress women in clothes which they will be comfortable in, then why would he include such preposterously proportioned footwear? I can only think that they might add an element of legend and implausibility for a designer who doesn't want to become too literal- he perhaps wants his customers to feel there is an uncrossable canyon between what they see on the catwalk and what they buy and wear themselves. That show quality. But Theyskens was also playing with our minds a bit because his final look, the most heel-deserving of them all, was styled with worker boots. Maybe he just wants us to mix it up a bit more? Or maybe he thinks if Gaga can do it, why can't every other woman?

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Alexander Wang SS12

 Another trend which has been brewing since the last round of Spring/ Summer collections and now looks to have full- on exploded, is the printed suit/ top and trouser combo. My favourite thus far is Alexander Wang's for its mesh overlay, leather trim and flash of ab. The faded panel which bring the trousers to a high-waist is a genius twist which helps to break up the print bombardment. I am also fascinated by Wang's hats which look like a deconstructed version of the fun feline ones for Autumn/ Fall which the FashEd blogged about at the weekend. Either that or they look like bags on the models heads. The graphic suit is very Star Trek.

Alexander Wang SS12

Rodarte

 Designers often cite obscure sculptors or little known architects among their inspirations, which I do love. It means fashion is always expanding my horizons and making me look at things I would quite possibly not have come across otherwise. HOWEVER, the Mulleavy sisters cited Sleeping Beauty and Vincent Van Gogh as their references for this collection. A zany combination but probably familiar to most of us without having to furiously google something we've never heard of before. And the clothes are a testament to their deft handling of this pairing. It was refreshing also to see that Rodarte is looking across all decades for its shapes, prints and embellishments. There is a lot of room in this collection for the woman's own idea of who she wants to be.

Rodarte

Sophie Theallet

 As I read Meenal Mistry's synopsis of Sophie Theallet's show, I saw that Romy Schneider was one of Sophie's muses for this collection. This actress is important right now, given that Erdem used her as a key inspiration for his Resort offering. Theallet's collections was particularly influenced by La Piscine which Romy starred in alongside Alain Delon. I have provided a video as a taster. In case you don't speak French, she begins by saying she is only happy when she's with him and then, a few seconds later is telling him how annoying he is. Sexual tension is key and that backless dress is a key symbol of that. Romy is definitely somebody I will be writing more about at a later date. In the meantime, Sophie's clothes are rather lovely don't you think?

Sophie Theallet

And finally, Preen. This is by far my favourite so far. The colours make my mouth water. The peplums and frills take a silhouette which is familiar to a new level. It has sometimes been hard to imagine where print might go next with all the amazing work we have seen from the likes of Mary Kantrantzou and others. Bregazzi and Thornton have undoubtedly brought something very subtle but nevertheless new to the table which makes me go WOW, WOW, WOW!

Preen

Preen

Preen

Preen

All images from Style.com

FASHION GETS INTO THE GROOVE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Jigging about and getting energetic is probably the last thing on everyone's mind on Monday morning, but it seems that the fashion industry has other ideas. Having been perusing the Resort 2012 lookbook images, it couldn't escape our attention that a heck of a lot of the models seemed to be leaping around like they are hardcore members of Pineapple Studios.

Gone are the days of boring studio shots - busting a move seems to be the future. Not that we are complaining, it sure makes sorting through the new collections more fun. Now what we want to know is this: when are the images going to become GIFs? Even more enjoyable!

Here are our fave Resort 2012 shots featuring models on the move.

Max Azria

Chloe - shot on the streets on Paris, these pics reminded us of film stills, or particularly chic paparazzi shots.

Lanvin (above and below) Daphne Groenveld not only wafts around showing off the garments to their maximum potential, she's also clearly not afraid of a good 'hair swish' or three.

Missoni: slightly more sedate, but nevertheless,  having a model stride through the incredible backdrop made these looks come alive.

Theysken's Theory

Giles' multi-fluro-patterned-craziness for Ungaro looks incredible in these wind-machine shots. Glamour to the max.

It's Daphne again, striding about for Versace. Can this girl not sit still?

Vionnet: showing us the best way to model a skinny flare.

And finally, Lindsay 'The Pout' Wixon turns senorita for Z-Spoke. You can just see her ruffling that skirt and salsa-ing off the page!

So there you have it: for Resort, it's all about models who move. Fashion has dictated that it's time to start throwing shapes that would make Louie Spence proud...