NINA RICCI'S BEAUTIFUL NEW LA RUE BAG

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Yesterday after a false start at Dover Street Market - a perfect excuse to gaze acquisitively (but pointlessly, as I'm only fit for a tent) at some Azzedine Alaia and Celine - we dropped into the Gazelli Art Gallery on Dover Street to see Peter Copping. Regular readers of FEAL will know Copping is the English artistic director of Nina Ricci Paris, and he has been in London to launch the brands' new signature handbag La Rue.

As with all things Peter does for the house (and in his life generally) the event was wonderfully charming and without the slightest pomp, and served not only to showcase the tactile bag and Mr. Copping himself, but also the work of British artist Jo Ratliffe and photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin who joined forces to create the launch imagery for the La Rue bag.

Fashion can truly come alive in creative collaboration, and this particular collusion took shape in organic stages, beginning with  the development of the new signature Ricci bag, which got its debut on the runway in Paris back in March. "Ours is not like the Louis Vuitton show, where its every girl with a different bag," said Peter Copping, while giving the pink snake version of the bag a squeeze.   "We just did one new bag, the La Rue, but in different sizes and fabrications. After the show our retailers loved it so I wanted to do something special to share it with the press." With its series of soft pleats folding towards the central opening, and pretty grosgrain ribbon pull the La Rue is basically a Ricci-fied version of a doctors bag, and very lovely it is too.

The finished image by Inez + Vinoodh for Nina Ricci with Jo Ratliffe

To bring it to life for launch was another matter. Copping shot the Autumn/Winter 2012 Nina Ricci campaign with photographers Inez and Vinoodh, and when he talked of giving an extra visual push to La Rue the couple immediately suggested the British artist Jo Ratliffe, with whom they recently collaborated on a Balmain film (see below).  Jo works in the mediums of illustration, painting and animation and decided to bring a element of collage and fine art to the bag images. "Flowers made sense as they are exquisite in their own right but also made the bag the focal point. I know the Nina Ricci brand, and this feels right. If you look closely at the image, you'll see I hand painted many of the flowers in oils to make it feel more authentic." I then comment to her that dressed in full Nina Ricci with her pink hair and strong brows she couldn't be a more perfect muse for the house. At this she points out that until yesterday she and Peter had only met via email, but I get the feeling we'll see more from this creative partnership soon.

Jo Ratliffe, me, Peter Copping

The pink croc version of Nina Ricci's La Rue

The La Rue launches in September. www.ninaricci.com

Here is Jo's work with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Balmain featuring Kate Moss

To see more of Jo Ratliffe's work go to www.JoCanDraw.com

FEAL'S TOP 12 GOLDEN GLOBES FAVOURITES

Posted by Melanie Rickey & Bethan Holt, Fashion Editor + Fashion Junior at Large

It's January and, therefore, the film and TV industry's awards and party season is getting into full swing. We are currently imagining the atmosphere above L.A is more hairspray than smog. Last night the Golden Globes, the event seen as the precursor to the Oscars, took place took place in Hollywood though there were other significant get-dressed-up events too. But the Golden Globes is what we're interested in. It was surreal to wake up to a Twitter feed buzzing with Tweets from people still out on the razz in LA at the post Golden Globes parties. 

Apart from the news about who won what and what that all means for the Oscars, the talk from the GG's is all about the red carpet style. Unlike catwalk and high street fashion, red carpet choices don't change much. You could look at the Golden Globes gowns from five years ago  - long dresses, up-dos, diamonds - and the changes would not be anywhere near as obvious as if you compared LouisVuitton even from one season to the next. 

Indeed, red carpet style takes only the merest nod from catwalk fashion. For actresses the objective is not  to be 'on trend', (as it is in their off-duty ensembles) so much as just looking movie star fabulous and making sure their full-length gown, evening bag, shoes, hair and make-up works in harmony to create a flattering, beautiful look that gives good photo from multiple angles - not just the front on hand-on-hip-one-foot-in-front position. This is easier said than done. We've included a full list of the winners at the bottom of this post (congrats Idris Alba and Jean Dujardin, we love you!) after we've shown you our Top 9 favourite (and not so favourite) DRESSES!  And our top two tuxedos. Do you agree?

1. ROONEY MARA IN NINA RICCI

It's good to see the work of one of my favourite designers, Peter Copping of Nina Ricci, on the red carpet. - MR

2. ZOOEY DESCHANEL IN PRADA (PLUS TUX NAILS)

J'adore Zooey's quirky style - MR 

From Zooey's Twitter

Someone with a sense of quirky humour on the red carpet? Go Zooey! BH

3. JESSICA BIEL IN ELIE SAAB

Her undone hair works for us at FEAL HQ 

 4. DIANNA AGRON IN GILES

Our very own Giles Deacon on the Hollywood red carpet!  

5. EVAN RACHEL WOOD IN GUCCI PREMIERE

This is a beautiful, classic pose. Gorgeous feathers and fab colour with her alabaster skin. BH

 6. ANDREA RISEBOROUGH IN VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

Historical referencing, but a bit further back than the 30s Wallis Simpson she plays in Madonna's film W.E. A good red lip is the cherry on the cake. BH

7. ROMOLA GARAI IN ALESSANDRA RICH

This is actually looks modern yet appropriate and pretty- moving on the red carpet 'look'

BH

8. MICHELLE WILLIAMS IN JASON WU

The cute headband make the devore column a bit more interesting. BH

 9. ANGELINA JOLIE IN ATELIER VERSACE

Angelina and colour... It's a rare but happy sight BH

10. EMMA STONE IN LANVIN 

Thanks to Verena Hafner who posted in the comment thread below, Emma Stone has made a belated entry into the FEAL Golden Globes top 10 best-dressed actresses. The dress, created by Alber Elbaz, might be a simple column shape, but the pleated damson and raspberry tulle combination is beautifully luxurious, and don't get me started on the belt! Love. MR

THE BEST MAN NO. 1.... MATT LEBLANC FOR THE NAVY

THE BEST MAN NO.2.... JEAN DUJARDIN... FOR THE GOOD POSING

AND THE ONES WE'RE NOT SO SURE ABOUT....

MERYL STREEP IN ALESSANDRA RICH

We're very happy about the choice of designer, Alessandra Rich is on the up. This looked great from a distance and is a great dress for her shape but close-up it the fabric looked unglamorous, we're not sure it was quite the one for Meryl.

 FRIEDA PINTO IN PRADA

Part of us feels like this is very chic and a nice departure from glitz and flesh but it's also stiff and unflattering on her tiny frame.

 

 TILDA SWINTON IN HAIDER ACKERMAN

The shape is fab and Tilda cannot really do any wrong. The lilac colour is so now; pretty and icy at the same time. It's just that the colour plus the jacket/ fishtail skirt seems, we hate to say it, a little bit Mother of the Bride. On its own and in a different context, the jacket could win the prize of best Jacket In the World.

THE WINNERS...

MOTION PICTURES

- Picture, Drama: The Descendants.
- Picture, Musical or Comedy: The Artist.
- Actor, Drama: George Clooney, The Descendants.
- Actress, Drama: Meryl Streep, The Iron Lady.
- Director: Martin Scorsese, Hugo.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Jean Dujardin, The Artist.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Michelle Williams, My Week With Marilyn.
- Supporting Actor: Christopher Plummer, Beginners.
- Supporting Actress: Octavia Spencer, The Help.
- Foreign Language: A Separation.
- Animated Film: The Adventures of Tintin.
- Screenplay: Woody Allen, Midnight in Paris.
- Original Score: Ludovic Bource, The Artist.
- Original Song: "Masterpiece" (music and lyrics by Madonna, Julie Frost, Jimmy Harry, W.E.


TELEVISION
- Series, Drama: Homeland, Showtime.
- Actor, Drama: Kelsey Grammer, Boss.
- Actress, Drama: Claire Danes, Homeland.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Matt LeBlanc, Episodes.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Laura Dern, Enlightened.
- Miniseries or Movie: Downton Abbey (Masterpiece)," PBS.
- Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Idris Elba, Luther.
- Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Kate Winslet, Mildred Pierce.
- Supporting Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Jessica Lange, American Horror Story
- Supporting Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Peter Dinklage, Game of Thrones


Images from Getty, Daily Mail, Grazia Daily, Makeuptalk.com, www.celebuzz.com

POP: PETER COPPING TALKS TO FASHED

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Among the FashEd's many guises is her role as Contributing Fashion Features Editor at POP. For the new Autumn/Winter issue, the theme was The Lady. So, it was only right that Peter Copping, Creative Director at Nina Ricci be featured, given that his collections are the epitome of ladylike prettiness. My first job as Fashion Junior was transcribing this interview, strange that such a highlight could come before I'd even made my desk my own. In my humble opinion, you cannot fail to fall in love with Copping after reading this...

Portrait of Peter Copping by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Photography by Ronald Dick, Fashion by Isabelle Kountoure

 POP is out now

CHRISTIAN DIOR'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR SHOULD BE....

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

John Galliano 

I didn't see this one coming: after over a decade at the helm John Galliano's reign as the Dauphin at Dior is over and done.

Paris - March 1, 2011
Today, in light of the deeply offensive statements and conduct by John Galliano in a video made public yesterday, Christian Dior has commenced termination proceedings against him. Sidney Toledano, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Christian Dior Couture, said: "I unequivocally condemn the statements made by John Galliano which are in total contradiction to the longstanding core values of Christian Dior". From the Huffington Post (via Racked)

While I am a long-time Galliano admirer, can't imagine a fashion industry without John Galliano, and feel compassion for the man, I ruefully agree that Dior chief Sidney Toledano had no choice but to fire him. It's so sad and a tragic way to go, but the bottom line is John totally brought it upon himself, albeit in the unconscious fug of intoxication in a bar in the Marais where he thought no-one knew him or cared what he was doing and saying. In another age maybe he might have been able to obfuscate events; in 2011 there's nowhere to hide from smartphone evidence (even if it wasn't from the night in question) streamed online by one of the worlds biggest media conglomerates. The hard truth leaves no room for public compassion - anti-Semitism is totally unaccepatble.

The ending at Dior also potentially sees his own eponymous line close its doors to him. It is a disastrous outcome, a gravity-defying fall from grace that is surely unprecedented in modern times.
It seems unfair to write all this about such an extraordinary talent. We all have our bad times - and to get through then in private and with dignity should be our right. But though it is unfair and unjust John Galliano doesn't have that option. He has been forced to face the music, but it could be a blessing in disguise. The extreme workload of the modern designer takes its toll on the most creative juices, and maybe a change is the best thing for Galliano and Dior in the long run.

But this is all only with hindsight. Until last Thursday I thought the business of Christian Dior was marching along buoyantly with Galliano at the creative helm. His creative work seemed  perfectly upstanding; the Spring/Summer 2011 collection was good. The multi-layered and coloured espadrille ribbon platform sandals from the collection have been massively influential.

Still. Transgression as a modus operandi succeeds on a creative level - but only if one doesn't let it contaminate the personal. Something Linda Grant writes on in todays Guardian online.

John Galliano is an enormous figure in fashion. Enormous. We in the fashion industry and beyond are in shock at the severity of the situation and will massively miss his design magic and  - on a totally superficial level - his famous catwalk exit at the end of each show. It seems silly to say but I feel lucky that I saw his very last show for Christian Dior in January. I hope he goes away somewhere to pull himself together with good friends close by and recover from  this. Someday he will be forgiven. Everyone deserves forgiveness and a second chance.

MOVING ON:
So who should Christian Dior be looking at? My first thoughts are the two Peters. Peter Copping, who heads up Nina Ricci, and Peter Dundas who heads up Emilio Pucci. Pucci is LVMH owned. Ricci is owned by the Puig group. In the same way that Bernard Arnault brought in Galliano to head up Dior from his position at Givenchy, it would be as simple for him to move Dundas into Dior. Or to hire Copping from Puig.

Peter Copping was key to the success of Marc Jacobs first years at Louis Vuitton, and his departure was keenly felt. In the last two years while Copping has been at Nina Ricci, he has brought a sweetness, elegance and purity to the house which is selling really well and bringing in legions of new young and not-so-young fans.

Copping, spookily, bears an almost striking resemblance to the real Christian Dior.

The real Christian Dior in 1953

Peter Copping of Nina Ricci

Peter Dundas of Emilio Pucci

Will update more later!

OUR PICK OF PRE-FALL 2011 - FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Anna Dello Russo, I thank you for inspiring this post.  There is nothing like popping a cut-out of one's oversized head onto an outfit to judge its suitability for the wardrobe, (and to laugh quietly to yourself at said images while colleagues look on with a concerned frown.)

Now onto the serious business of how good the pre-fall collections are for AW11. Designers and brands are definitely putting more time, thought and effort into them. In fact, when I do have enough spare cash to buy from catwalk labels, I rarely, if ever, buy catwalk pieces. I buy pre. Not consciously, it's just what I gravitate toward. All the Celine I bought last season was pre, for example. This will happen again next season. To my mind these clothes are just more wearable for everyday life. They are a stylish fashion statement to go back to time and again. Much preferable than buying a catwalk piece that has massive impact, but that can be worn less often because it is so memorable. (Of course I do make exceptions!) So here are my top ten buys from the pre-fall collections.

There is something so appealing about this sleeveless denim coat by Alexander Wang. Think of the variety that can be achieved with the sleevage!

I am in love with the work of Peter Copping at Nina Ricci. His work has a fragile toughness that is so appealing and chic. I would dare to say Copping is my favourite designer at this moment.  Also he is English, not that this should be a moot point, however its a qualifier for me.

The last couple of Balenciaga collections were fabulous, but to my eye hard to wear. The pre-fall on the other hand was full of great, approachable  pieces. Balenciaga designer Nicolas even reprised his Alsatian head intarsia knit that I remember from the mid-noughties. The structure of this dress is elegantly bold and can work as an amazing fashion statement all year round. 

As a child my favourite teddy was Rupert the Bear; this is the only way to explain away my obsession for plaid trousers. These from Celine will be mine.  

This zingingly vivid violet outfit by Derek Lam is addictive.

Does Phoebe Philo actually know me and study the workings of my mind? This is my dream work outfit. 

Really like how Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy has given a sexy twist to the new covered up austerity sweeping through fashion. There seems to be a competition to see how much of a woman can be covered up, and to edit sexiness out of fashion altogether. This look thumbs a nose to that with its transparent layer.

Oh Alber! Beautiful fashion in motion.

When I was a kid my favourite two TV shows were Magnum and Charlie's Angels re-runs. My favourite Charlie's Angel was Sabrina the boyish one whose wardrobe consisted of flares and tight tops. This is an "uber-Sabrina" look by the other Peter, Peter Dundas of Pucci, my second favourite designer of the moment. This makes me want to leap off pavements busy going places...

Big respect to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen whose collection The Row is super-sophisicated and modern dressing in the masculine mode that is so wildly popular in the contemporary collections. Hands up: the above look is how I dress almost every day, and I would very much like to update my basics with these from The Row.

Photos: Courtesy of the designers