MARY-KATE AND ASHLEY FEEL THE CFDA FASHION LOVE IN NEW YORK

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

It was the CFDAs last night. or Council of Fashion Designer of America Awards. Yeah, the acronym is much easier. Just wanted to point this out really.  Also that for the first time ever, the CFDAs are available from right about now to view on Style.com, with my friend and neighbour Tim Blanks hosting from the red carpet. According to the CFDA itself, the actual digital broadcast “will feature the awards ceremony from red carpet highlights and interviews through the final bow of the night."
It's a big deal in NYC, and always interesting to see who wins what, even just to understand the politics of the occasion. The winners are below, and definitely reflect the more populist format it has adopted with Style.com. Interesting to see Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) and his girlfriend Garance Dore  win a joint award for their separate blogs. Also the billionaire former child star twin sisters Mary Kate and Ashley were deemed worthy of the Womenswear Designer of the Year title for their luxury fashion brand The Row. The last item of theirs I loved was a white leather rucksack with gold hardware which cost $17k. I didn't buy. In Britain the equivalent award last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. Hmm. I like The Row stuff, and the Olsen's have fantastic taste, but Designers of the Year? Rei Kawakubo of Commes des Garcons picked up the International Award, but the designer considers awards as irrelevent, so didn't come to pick it up.

Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row looking very chuffed with their award last night (via myfdb.com)

THE CFDA WINNERS

Womenswear Designer of the Year Award: Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for the Row
Menswear Designer of the Year Award: Billy Reid
Accessory Designer of the Year Award: Reed Krakoff
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear: Joseph Altuzarra
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear: Phillip Lim
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Accessory Design: Tabitha Simmons
The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Tommy Hilfiger
The Media Award, in honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Scott Schuman and Garance Doré
The Fashion Icon Award: Johnny Depp
The Founders Award, given in honor of Eleanor Lambert: Andrew Rosen
The International Award: Rei Kawakubo

ADVENT DAY 22: A RUCKSACK, BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The Row Leather Backpack £2,635

 It was not so long ago that rucksacks represented the anitthesis of what we wanted from a bag. It was all about the arm candy, the It-ness, the glint of a designer tag. There were stories of women developing major back and shoulder injuries as a result of tucking their Lariat/ Alexa in the crook of their elbow for far too long. The inevitable return to a more practical model has seen the rise and rise of the satchel over the past year. And, more and more, the rucksack. Despite the usual connotations of practicality, techy fabrics and a pouch for a water bottle, there are a number of super luxe versions for those of us who can only handle this trend when it is taken as far away from potential Jansport comparisons as possible.

Enter The Row. While all their contemporaries are wearing bargain army surplus finds or battered up vintage leather versions of the rucksack, 25 year-old squillionaires Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have created a rather stunning £2,635 taupe objet de back art. Whether anyone besides themselves will be purchasing it is slightly doubtful but it is a thing of beauty we simply had to share. I went to view The Row's SS12 collection in Paris earlier this year. It was pristine and beautiful, all the materials and details hummed with luxury. I spied Mary Kate and Ashley in the corner of the vast room being interviewed. I can only describe the way they looked as reminding me of toys which had never been taken out of their box- so bright and shiny. Their collection is so covetable yet to have an item from it would really only be of any use if you lived your life away from the hum drum of grimy streets, public transport and well, reality.

'Contemplation seems to be about the only luxury that costs nothing' Dodie Smith

Lucy Rose is a friend of a friend. She works with Bombay Bicycle Club and has been supporting Ed Sheeran recently. If you're feeling the effects of pre-Christmas frenzy, close your eyes and listen to this this. Bliss. 

OUR PICK OF PRE-FALL 2011 - FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Anna Dello Russo, I thank you for inspiring this post.  There is nothing like popping a cut-out of one's oversized head onto an outfit to judge its suitability for the wardrobe, (and to laugh quietly to yourself at said images while colleagues look on with a concerned frown.)

Now onto the serious business of how good the pre-fall collections are for AW11. Designers and brands are definitely putting more time, thought and effort into them. In fact, when I do have enough spare cash to buy from catwalk labels, I rarely, if ever, buy catwalk pieces. I buy pre. Not consciously, it's just what I gravitate toward. All the Celine I bought last season was pre, for example. This will happen again next season. To my mind these clothes are just more wearable for everyday life. They are a stylish fashion statement to go back to time and again. Much preferable than buying a catwalk piece that has massive impact, but that can be worn less often because it is so memorable. (Of course I do make exceptions!) So here are my top ten buys from the pre-fall collections.

There is something so appealing about this sleeveless denim coat by Alexander Wang. Think of the variety that can be achieved with the sleevage!

I am in love with the work of Peter Copping at Nina Ricci. His work has a fragile toughness that is so appealing and chic. I would dare to say Copping is my favourite designer at this moment.  Also he is English, not that this should be a moot point, however its a qualifier for me.

The last couple of Balenciaga collections were fabulous, but to my eye hard to wear. The pre-fall on the other hand was full of great, approachable  pieces. Balenciaga designer Nicolas even reprised his Alsatian head intarsia knit that I remember from the mid-noughties. The structure of this dress is elegantly bold and can work as an amazing fashion statement all year round. 

As a child my favourite teddy was Rupert the Bear; this is the only way to explain away my obsession for plaid trousers. These from Celine will be mine.  

This zingingly vivid violet outfit by Derek Lam is addictive.

Does Phoebe Philo actually know me and study the workings of my mind? This is my dream work outfit. 

Really like how Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy has given a sexy twist to the new covered up austerity sweeping through fashion. There seems to be a competition to see how much of a woman can be covered up, and to edit sexiness out of fashion altogether. This look thumbs a nose to that with its transparent layer.

Oh Alber! Beautiful fashion in motion.

When I was a kid my favourite two TV shows were Magnum and Charlie's Angels re-runs. My favourite Charlie's Angel was Sabrina the boyish one whose wardrobe consisted of flares and tight tops. This is an "uber-Sabrina" look by the other Peter, Peter Dundas of Pucci, my second favourite designer of the moment. This makes me want to leap off pavements busy going places...

Big respect to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen whose collection The Row is super-sophisicated and modern dressing in the masculine mode that is so wildly popular in the contemporary collections. Hands up: the above look is how I dress almost every day, and I would very much like to update my basics with these from The Row.

Photos: Courtesy of the designers