OUR PICK OF MFW AW11 - FASHION JUNIOR

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The Fash Ed is currently negotiating the busy streets of Paris, and I am sure she will have plenty of insider gossip to report upon her return next week. In the mean time, this is the time of year when we analyse every look from every collection - and I mean every look. Before we get swept away in the glamour that is Paris Fashion Week, it's only fair to give Milan it's due attention, so here are my personal picks.

(Before anyone chides me on the high ratio of black outfits, Milan Fashion Week generally only offers three options: black, sparkly, or both. So it's a wonder that I found any colour at all!)

Dolce and Gabbana - a collection of two halves, and what truly awesome halves they were! On one side, the girlish and glamorous, on the other, tough tomboy chic with added retro-ness (see below). Everyone is raving about the floaty star print dresses, but this turquoise glittery number really sparked my imagination. I like how it's a simple, glittering block of colour that you can style many ways, and the long sleeves earn extra cool points.

 Dolce and Gabbana (part II) I couldn't limit myself to one pick from this collection. Having never been one to shy away from a sequin, I am drawn to these spectacular trousers, and enjoy the contrast with the masculine Teddy boy coat. An outfit for days when you feel a bit La Roux-ish. Did I mention the boy shoes?! Brogues and sequins; like I said, awesome!

 

Sportmax. A lovely treat for the eyes at the end of a fairly minimalist collection; this flamboyant embroidery is just wonderful when combined with the sheer chiffon and neutral colour. I like how covered up it is too, with that appealing midi length and long sleeves (again). Librarian chic, nice.  

Antonio Marras. Another tricky collection to pick just one look from, it was full of 1930s inspired midi-dresses, in a palette of black, navy and cream, topped off with genuinely wrinkly Nora Batty stockings. I don't know why that is a good thing, but trust me when I say it is! But this outfit was primarily chosen for those fantabulous shoes: platform, peep toe, granny-strap, old-fashioned RED DREAMS. They even match my lipstick!

Pucci. Something worrying has started to emerge from Milan - the return of the Afghan coat. Seventies chic is alive and well, but that is one trend that I cannot cope with. The furry collar and hem of this decadent jacket alludes to that late Seventies look, but is a little more chic than a shaggy old Afghan. Pucci, on the whole, seems to be getting stronger and stronger, a real favourite here at FEAL HQ.

Gucci: wowarama. This collection was full on, in your face glamour, with lashings of snakeskin, fur, chiffon and colour. Teals, purples, turquoises; Frida Giannini has dictated the shades of the season. So if you are going to pick a red carpet dress, why look anywhere else? Anything that floaty and floral instantly brings out my inner Kate Bush, which is always fun!

Check back for the Fash Ed's picks, and no doubt updates from Paris!

All pics: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

OUR PICK OF PRE-FALL 2011 - FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Anna Dello Russo, I thank you for inspiring this post.  There is nothing like popping a cut-out of one's oversized head onto an outfit to judge its suitability for the wardrobe, (and to laugh quietly to yourself at said images while colleagues look on with a concerned frown.)

Now onto the serious business of how good the pre-fall collections are for AW11. Designers and brands are definitely putting more time, thought and effort into them. In fact, when I do have enough spare cash to buy from catwalk labels, I rarely, if ever, buy catwalk pieces. I buy pre. Not consciously, it's just what I gravitate toward. All the Celine I bought last season was pre, for example. This will happen again next season. To my mind these clothes are just more wearable for everyday life. They are a stylish fashion statement to go back to time and again. Much preferable than buying a catwalk piece that has massive impact, but that can be worn less often because it is so memorable. (Of course I do make exceptions!) So here are my top ten buys from the pre-fall collections.

There is something so appealing about this sleeveless denim coat by Alexander Wang. Think of the variety that can be achieved with the sleevage!

I am in love with the work of Peter Copping at Nina Ricci. His work has a fragile toughness that is so appealing and chic. I would dare to say Copping is my favourite designer at this moment.  Also he is English, not that this should be a moot point, however its a qualifier for me.

The last couple of Balenciaga collections were fabulous, but to my eye hard to wear. The pre-fall on the other hand was full of great, approachable  pieces. Balenciaga designer Nicolas even reprised his Alsatian head intarsia knit that I remember from the mid-noughties. The structure of this dress is elegantly bold and can work as an amazing fashion statement all year round. 

As a child my favourite teddy was Rupert the Bear; this is the only way to explain away my obsession for plaid trousers. These from Celine will be mine.  

This zingingly vivid violet outfit by Derek Lam is addictive.

Does Phoebe Philo actually know me and study the workings of my mind? This is my dream work outfit. 

Really like how Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy has given a sexy twist to the new covered up austerity sweeping through fashion. There seems to be a competition to see how much of a woman can be covered up, and to edit sexiness out of fashion altogether. This look thumbs a nose to that with its transparent layer.

Oh Alber! Beautiful fashion in motion.

When I was a kid my favourite two TV shows were Magnum and Charlie's Angels re-runs. My favourite Charlie's Angel was Sabrina the boyish one whose wardrobe consisted of flares and tight tops. This is an "uber-Sabrina" look by the other Peter, Peter Dundas of Pucci, my second favourite designer of the moment. This makes me want to leap off pavements busy going places...

Big respect to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen whose collection The Row is super-sophisicated and modern dressing in the masculine mode that is so wildly popular in the contemporary collections. Hands up: the above look is how I dress almost every day, and I would very much like to update my basics with these from The Row.

Photos: Courtesy of the designers