FASHION NEWS: SOME THINKING AHEAD OF SS14 FASHION WEEKS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor of Large

The SS14 shows are officially underway and so for the next four weeks fashion news will largely centre on who's who and what's what for next Spring. So, today I thought I'd share a few links to longer think pieces which have appeared over the past couple of weeks as well as a couple of need-to- know news bits.

First up, Kering, who in January acquired a 51% stake in Christopher Kane, today added Joseph Altuzarra to their portfolio of brands by investing in a minority stake in the business just days before Altuzarra's NYFW show. Way to create a buzz.

Lauren Sherman on designers transitioning from no.2 to Creative Director star

Brilliant, thought provoking piece on fashion's moral compass by Robin Givhan

Cathy Horyn bemoans the new way fashion weeks pan out.

Suzy Menzes on faster and faster fashion

I listened to bits of this earlier and it was inspiring and fascinating- Lucinda Chambers interviewed by Lou Stoppard on SHOWstudio. 

Finally, music in fashion.

Christopher Bailey has a dedicated music team at Burberry.

And Hedi Slimane has made his first Saint Laurent video to promote ballerina shoes. It stars Gracie van Gastel, with soundtrack by Cherry Glazerr.

Happy Weekend!

Outfit | The New Icons

EN

I have been looking for the perfect (non-designer) leather biker jacket since I can remember and have never found it, until this one from the H&M New Icons collection came along. They tend to never be perfect and I am looking for a certain kind of perfect, like anyone does. What I want? Being specific, I want it quilted, a bit stiff with quality leather, with the reverse really sticking out and with one stud at the end of each side. Sometimes I find jackets quilted, but not stiff nor with quality leather nor with the reverse and studs, other times I find it with the reverse and studs but not quilted, and so on, but this time I got the perfect one! Weird, because I am not a fan of H&M, since the quality is very bad in general, excepting for special collections like this one, of course, and H&M Trend. I also never jump in the bandwagon with every new special collection of the brand, since I am never attracted, and the thought of buying something just because it's "in" is not really my cup of tea, but this collection was clearly an exception.

 Of course, if we talk designer leather jackets, I wouldn't mind this one from Blk Dnm, which is the most perfect one I have ever seen, even better than the Acne Mape leather jacket. 

And don't even get me started with wide brim fedoras! As some of you may already know, I am a big fan of Hedi Slimane's Spring Summer collection for Saint Laurent Paris, so the minute I saw this hat I knew I had to have it.

Now, let's talk about these shoes!!! They are the buy I was telling you about, I know I have been bad, but I just couldn't help buying them. The shape, cut, everything screams timeless and sleek, like all things Wang. Seriously, Alexander Wang is my favourite designer of all, I am simply obsessed with everything he makes and I cannot think of one pair of shoes of his current and last collections I would love to have in my closet.

Wishing you all a great and productive week! x

ES

Mi búsqueda tras la cazadora perfecto perfecta ha finalmente terminado desde que ví ésta de la última colección de H&M. La he buscado por anos y nunca tienden ser perfectas. Estaba buscando algo específico. A qué me refiero? La quiero acolchada en los brazos, un poco rígida y de buena calidad, y con el reverso prominente con una tachuela al final de cada extremo.

Algunas veces encuentro las cazadoras acolchadas, pero no rígidas ni de buena calidad ni mucho menos con las tachuelas, otras veces las encuentro con el reverso prominente y de buena calidad, pero no acolchada, y así sucesivamente. Pero esta vez he encontrado la chaqueta que más se acerca a la perfección y es curioso porque nunca he sido fanática de H&M, ya que la mayoría de sus prendas son de pésima calidad, exceptuando la calidad de colecciones como ésta y de H&M Trend. Tampoco me atrae la idea de comprar algo de colecciones especiales de H&M sólo porque estén de moda, pero claramente aquí hice una excepción.

Claro, si hablamos de cazadoras perfecto de disenador, me quedo con esta de Blk Dnm que es la más perfecta que he visto, aun más que la Mape de Acne.

Y el sombrero! Como ya algunas de vosotras sabéis, soy fanática de la colección primavera verano de Hedi Slimane para Saint Laurent Paris, así que tuve que comprarme este sombrero con ala ancha el segundo que lo ví!

Ahora, hablemos de los zapatos! Son la compra de la que os hablé recientemente, Simplemente no pude evitar comprármelos ya que la forma y el diseno son atemporales como todo lo que disena Alexander Wang. Es mi disenador favorito! Simplemente estoy obsesionada con todo lo que disena y no puedo pensar en un par de zapatos que haya disenado que no quisiera tener en mi armario! Es genial! Os deseo una feliz semana!

DE

Ich bin seit langem ohne Erfolg auf der Suche nach der perfekten Biker-Lederjacke, bis ich diese von der H&M New Icons Kollektion gesehen habe. Die Jacken sind niemals perfekt und ich suche nach der perfekten nach meinem Geschmack, wie jeder. Was will ich? Ich will spezifisch sein: Ich will, dass die Jacke gesteppt auf den Ärmeln ist, dass sie ein bisschen Steif und aus guter Qualität ist, dass das Revers heraussticht und dass es eine Niete am Ende des Revers hat. 

Ab und zu finde ich Jacken die gesteppt sind, aber weder herausstechende Revers haben noch aus guter Qualität sind. Und manchmal finde ich Jacken, die herausstechende Revers haben, aber sie haben keine Nieten und sie sind auch nicht gesteppt, und so weiter. Aber dieses Mal habe ich die perfekte gefunden!

Es ist seltsam, da ich kein H&M Fan bin, da die Qualität sehr schlecht ist (außer natürlich besondere Kollektionen wie diese und H&M Trend). Mir gefallen auch nicht oft die besonderen Kollektionen dieser Marke und ich bin auch kein Fan von der Idee, Stücke von dieser Kollektionen zu kaufen, nur weil sie "in" sind, aber diese Stücke waren ein Ausnahme.

Natürlich, wenn wir von Designer-Bikerjacken sprechen, würde ich  sehr gerne eine ähnliche von Blk Dnm  haben, da sie die perfekteste Jacke ist, die ich jemals gesehen habe. Sogar perfekter als die Acne Mappe Lederjacke.

Und der Hut! Manche von euch wissen schon, dass ich ein großer Fan Hedi Slimanes Kollektion für Saint Laurent Paris bin, deswegen musste ich mir sofort diesen Fedora-Hut mit breiter Krempe kaufen.

Jetzt: Die Schuhe! Ich habe euch schon davon erzählt, dass ich mir etwas Besonderes gekauft habe und hier sind sie! Die Schuhe von Alexander Wang, welche eine zeitlose Form und Design haben, wie alles von Wang.

Wang ist echt mein Lieblings-Designer. Ich bin einfach von allem besessen, was er entwirft und ich hätte am liebsten  alle Schuhe, die er entworfen hat!

Ich wünsche euch eine tolle und produktive Woche. 

I am wearing an H&M New Icons Fedora(THE Saint Laurent Fedora here), skinny jeans(similar here and here), belt and biker leather jacket(here and here), a Zara lace top(similar), and Alexander Wang shoes.

                                                                        

SAINT LAURENT SURPRISE... GET ON THE WAITING LIST

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

All you Saint Laurent haters out there, take a look at these. OK, so Hedi Slimane's second collection might not have gone down too much better than the last but did anyone focus on THESE button and trinket bedecked worker boots? More Meadham Kirchhoff than Parisienne but there's sure to be a waiting list a mile long, non?

HOW ONE VERY SKINNY BOY BECAME A THORN IN HEDI SLIMANE'S SIDE AT YSL

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Ever since Hedi Slimane re-joined the worshipful Yves Saint Laurent company last year he has been stamping his pointy black-booted feet all over the traditional conventions of the fashion industry, and in particular its media.

Only last night at his comeback menswear show at YSL (he previously designed YSL menswear from 1996-2000) he broke unwritten catwalk rule number one. Namely: Do Not Hire Underweight, Anorexic Looking Men (or Women) as Models.

This guy needs to eat (photo: style.com)

Back in the old days before social media a very very skinny, ill-looking male model, such as the one above, would cause raised eyebrows amongst those actually present at the show, and not much else. Last night this boy caused raised eyebrows in the catwalk theatre and beyond. Simon Chilvers of the Guardian said Slimane's skinny musician boys looked "dated" compared to the way the majority of brands including Prada and Margiela are using male models today. "When you start to see clothes on a wider variety of male bodies," says Chilvers, "you cannot help but hone in on models that are particularly thin, such as some of those boys in the Saint Laurent show last night." Tim Blanks even mentioned the elephant in the room in his Style.com review saying "You don't even want to go there with the skinny." But it was left to writer and former LOVE editor Isaac Lock to say what everyone was thinking, and it went viral.

Lock (@IsaacJLock) highlighted the above photo of this emaciated boy on his Twitter feed last night asking the question: "This is aspirational, right?" which prompted hundreds of Retweets. The former LOVE magazine editor also Tweeted "Hedi's Home for Hungry Boys. Fashion, you're pretty fucked up sometimes." Which fairly summed up the thoughts of everyone who put their twopence worth in overnight on social media. Yes, fashion can be fucked up, yet we all know Hedi Slimane is an agent provocateur. He has always used skinny models. But this skinny?? Could he be using fashion's biggest taboo to gain press coverage? By lunchtime the photo had prompted stories on the New Statesman and Daily Mail websites among others and interested parties knew Hedi Slimane was back at YSL menswear causing a commotion. 

When I emailed Isaac Lock this afternoon to ask him why he felt strongly enough to publish his thoughts on Twitter he sent me the following.  What Isaac has to say strikes at the heart of the matter of why social responsibility remains relevant in fashion. 

"I reacted so strongly because I think there’s an unhealthy silence around men’s body issues both in and out of the fashion industry. Women, of course, are subjected to extreme body pressures all the time, but there is, at least, an ongoing conversation in the media about it. That’s less the case when it comes to men and it can be embarrassing for a lot of men to talk about the way they feel about their bodies. The way the fashion industry often works is to pile shame on people then invite them to buy their way out of it. For men, or boys, since with this show we really are talking about boys, to say that an image or an ideal is shame inducing can be very difficult - it opens the door to more shame - that they’re not manly enough, they’re not tough enough, they’re not cool enough to just get on with it like the boys in the show. 

"More than any other men’s designer, Hedi Slimane trades in hype. He trades in saying, "This is it, this is the coolest, most relevant idea there is." When he’s saying that, and then presenting that idea on a series of boys who have a body that it’s unhealthy for the majority of the male population to aspire to I think it’s important to say ‘Hey, what the fuck is up with you? Are you ok?'  

"In the years between Hedi Slimane’s time at Dior and his time now at YSL there’s been a change which means there are a lot of teenage consumers of fashion. They don’t consume it by buying it, though, they consume it in image form. They obsessively gather images of shows and shoots on their Tumblrs and send them around. They respond to fashion in the way that some of their peers might respond to music or sport. These are kids sitting at home in their bedrooms pawing over the internet probably dreaming, like a lot of us did, about escaping to a new, metropolitan, exciting life. They are kids who are at a vulnerable age and whose stock in trade is trying to work out what they can do to realise their fantasies.  For those kids who are interested in fashion, something like the Saint Laurent show must seem like the epitome of excitement and escape. The thing is, those kids, like the kids of the Dior era can’t buy the clothes. They can, however, emulate the bodies the clothes are shown on. I don’t think Slimane can ignore his teenage fans and say it’s not intended for them because, by appropriating the language of youth culture to sell stuff, he’s talking right to them, and what’s he’s saying is hollow, disempowering, crap."

What do you think?

Christopher Kane sells 51% Majority Stake to Luxury Group PPR, joins roster including Balenciaga, McQueen, Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Christopher Kane

It's been tough keeping this one quiet, but at the stroke of midnight today, January 15th 2013, at last the news became public (my lip has been buttoned for ages). Christopher Kane the 30-year-old Glasgow born designer has sold a 51% stake of his business to the PPR Group in order to develop his business into a global luxury fashion brand.

This is brilliant news for a designer who graduated eight years ago with his Fashion MA from Central Saint Martins, and became an instant critical and commercial success. It makes today a very good day for British fashion and the education and grant system that supports and nurtures young talent, including not least the NEWGEN scheme which launched Chris into London Fashion Week for his first colour-popping show in September 2006, for S/S S2007. (Although sadly, if Christopher Kane was looking for a university place in England today, his 18 year old self would not be able to afford the fees.)

Even better, Kane will not be moving his catwalk shows to Paris; he stays in London.

In aligning with PPR Group (Printemps-Pinault-Redoute) Kane joins an impressive portfolio of luxury brands jockeying for 21st Century domination including Balenciaga (with newbie Alexander Wang as creative director), Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent with Hedi Slimane at the helm. His achievement is particularly sweet given the biggest fashion rumour connected to his name over 2012 was that he may be heading up design at Balenciaga following his departure from Versus, and the departure of Nicolas Ghesquiere from Balenciaga. "The Balenciaga thing wasn't a bad thing" Kane told Style.com, "but I had to make sure I denied that straightaway so that the PPR investment in my business didn't look like a consolation prize."

If this still leaves you slightly baffled as to its significance for Kane and the wider fashion picture, here are a few reasons why this is important news. Fans of Christopher Kane can rejoice in the knowledge that the Dalston, East London based designer will now be able to A) open stores globally over time, B) launch leather goods (woop!) C) spend more time creating his signature collection and less time on paperwork and the running of what was very much a family business with a small team of close confidantes.

"He is still the one and only graduate who was ever awarded New Gen funding right out of college," says Sarah Mower MBE the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent who discovered Kane while he was still at university. "We took a risk, which was stunningly well rewarded with his first neon-bandage show in Holland Park in September 2006 - one of the best London fashion shows ever and one which not only launched him, but marked the beginning of the wave of creativity and self-confidence which has transformed London in the eyes of the world." As head of the New Gen who has nurtured Kane from day one, Mower is also understandably pleased that he is staying loyal to his homeland. "I'm thrilled that Christopher has no thought of showing anywhere but London. That fact is the absolute proof and endorsement of how this city has been transformed as the international platform for new ideas."

For Kane and his business partner and sister Tammy Kane this means they needn't worry financially for a long time to come. Selling 51% of your company to one of the world's most powerful luxury groups is a mahoosive payday. Alexander McQueen is rumoured to have got £30 million in 2000 when he sold a 51% stake to the Gucci Group (as the fashion arm of PPR was still called then when it was co-run by Tom Ford).

It is worth noting that what Christopher has pulled off is even more impressive than it looks, as PPR group has not backed a young designer for a decade. Indeed, this is the very first fashion acquisition actively made by PPR chairman Francois-Henri Pinault; all the previous acquisitions were made under the leadership of Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole.

Francois-Henri Pinault described Kane as “ A truly great talent who in just a few years he has built a very distinctive and exciting brand with a unique DNA." For his part Kane told  US Vogue "Tammy and I have been dreaming of what we would do since I was about nine years old...we instinctively feel that PPR understand what we’re about and how we can grow- not headlong, but step by step. It’s fantastic to have that sense of security.”

I'm so proud of Christopher and Tammy and utterly delighted for them. They have been building their brand cleverly and diligently from day one, and it really couldn't happen to nicer people. Onwards!

THE WEEK IN FASHION: SEPTEMBER 5-12th

Posted by Kasia Hastings and Bethan Holt

So we've just about recovered from four weeks of shows...

REMEMBERING VIDAL SASSOON

Friends and family paid tribute today to one of hairstyling's legendary figures. Vidal Sassoon was described as a "generous and compassionate man" during the service at St Paul's Cathedral this morning. The service was made up of both Jewish and Christian tradition (Sassoon a lifelong anti-Semetic campaigner) and attended by friends such as Zandra Rhodes, Michael Caine and Jeremy Irons, amongst many others who remembered him for his contribution to fashion, culture and human rights.

Rex Features

CHANEL LBJ EXHIBITION
Last night Chanel opened their Little Black Jacket exhibition in London at the Saatchi Gallery following the success of their book, "The Little Black Jacket" this summer and the subsequent exhibition in New York. Naturally, Karl Lagerfeld invited London beauties such as Alice Dellal, Eva Herzigova, Yasmin le Bon and Amanda Harlech to mark the occasion. The exhibition itself consists of more than 100 black and white photos of Karl's favourite muses (some more surprising...Kanye) all sporting the iconic jacket. Sounds like a perfect Sunday afternoon treat to me - The exhibition is on until October 28th and admission is free.

Image: bohomoth.com

WHAT'S NEXT FOR CARINE

Is there no stopping Carine Roitfeld? Just when we all thought she had settled nicely into her CR Fashion Book project she goes and announces yet another string to her bow. And it's a fascinating one at that as Roitfeld is assuming the newly created role of Global Creative Director for Harper's Bazaar, published by Hearst and major rival to her former employers, Vogue owners Conde-Nast. Fans of Roitfeld's work should rejoice as the move will make her work way more accessible; her stories, which look set to include covers, will appear in Harpers editions around the world. She will be working closely with her friend Stephen Gan, Harper's Bazaar creative Director. Hearst's President and Chief Executive, Duncan Edwards said in a statement, “This collaboration marks the first time anything like this has been done, and we’re very excited about what Carine will bring to Bazaar editions around the world.”. Bring on the March editions which will be the first to feature Carine's shoots.

The Roifeld-Restoins en famille at the launch of CR Fashion Book Image: Bazaar.com

THE DUCHESS OF NEWCASTLE

Today it has come to light that the Duchess of Cambridge dressed up as Cheryl Cole and performed her hit "Fight For This Love" on her hen night. In her forthcoming autobiography Cheryl Cole reveals that it was Prince William who personally informed her of Kate's tribute back in June at the Jubilee Concert in which she performed. The Duchess is said to have donned Cheryl's famous split trousers and have been step perfect, now that we'd like to see, so much in fact that we have recreated the look for ourselves...

ALEXA CHUNG'S BOOK IS NOT A STYLE BIBLE
Alex Chung has insisted that her new book is not to be taken as a style bible! The style icon and Vogue contributor told Fashionista.com, "It's basically a compendium of drawings and photographs, and I'm going to write about a bunch of stuff,"- phew, no Victoria Beckham dictatorial then. Alexa's book is expected to be published next September by Penguin Books.

TREND: ENGAGEMENTS:
The bigger the better - Blake Lively and Jennifer Aniston have been flashing their atomic sized rocks this week in the latest round of celeb ring-offs. Blake Lively made her first public appearance since marrying Ryan Reynolds at the Chanel Bijoux De Diamant 80th Anniversary celebration earlier this week.  The Chanel campaign star's ring is reported to have cost $2m, the rose coloured diamond is the stuff of child fantasy and was paired with a similarly sugary Chanel AW12 dress. Meanwhile Brit girl Poppy Delevigne received an extraordinary proposal from her beau James Cook, whom she has been dating since 2007. Poppy's proposal came in the form of a bespoke jewellery box with an inscribed message by British designer, Anya Hinmarch. We hope Poppy knows it's James she's marrying and not Anya.

Delevigne tweeted "Err YES...#happiestdayofmylife" along with a photo of the jewellery box.

THE SAINT LAURENT DEBATE CONTINUES 

The Saint Laurent debate continued this week as Cameron Silver spoke out against Hedi Slimane's debut collect for the Paris fashion house. The L.A. "antique" store owner spoke to British Vogue about the "vintage education" he gave Raf Simmos before the designer embarked on his spring collection,  and of Slimane told them, "If you're going to present yourself as the messiah then you better deliver the 11th commandment". Ouch. Silver's branded Slimane's collection as, "too referential" and confirmed it as the wardrobe of every L.A. girl of the past 5 years. It seems there is still appreciation for Slimane's collection in the form of Francois-Henri Pinault, CEO and chairman of PPR who own Yves Saint Laurent. He spoke to WWD, publicly backing the collection. Finally, Susie Lau of Style Bubble wrote a great piece this week in the light of the Saint Laurent collection about what really constitutes "modern"- is what the average, non- super fashion girl wants to wear now? Or is it what is deemed experimental and entirely new by critics?

Image: ITVE/PA Wire

BRITISHISM IN AMERICA

"Crickey, Britishism are everywhere" wrote Alex Williams in the "Style" section of the New York Times this week. It seems the Downton effect is spreading beyond the Autumn/Winter catwalks and into the vernacular of the average American, or New Yorker anyway.  Brit colloquialism such as "cheers", "brilliant" and "loo" have been adopted by Americans... Whilst Williams suggests it might be Anglocreep and even annoying we're sure a bit of good old British charm won't hurt and with the likes of Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow way ahead of this trend perhaps it's here to stay. Jolly hockey sticks!

BABY FORD

Congratulations to Tom Ford and his long-term partner Richard Buckley who announced the birth of baby, Alexander John Buckley Ford, last Friday. The pair who have been together for 25 years, kept the pregnancy completely hush hush, Ford previously told Time Out, "if I have children, no one will know about it until the child is born. And no one will ever see the child because I certainly wouldn't use it as a press tool'. Looks like we'll be waiting a long time to see little Alexander John in a Ford suit.

vogue.co.uk

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FOR H&M

H&M released the first images of their latest designer-high street collaboration this week shot by artist and director Sam Taylor-Johnson. The first glimpses of the eagerly anticipated collection from Maison Martin Margiela suggest we can expect chic separates, statement coats and beautiful silhouettes- just the thing for a winter pick me up. The collection is available online and in store from November 15th.

HUGO BOSS AT THE NATIONAL THEATRE 

This week the first of Hugo Boss and the National Theatre's creative collaboration took to the stage in the opening night of Frank McGuinness' production of Tirso de Molina's Damned Despair. This is the first time the National has joined forces with a designer and with Hugo Boss set to create all the costumes for their forthcoming contemporary productions we are expecting some extra style with our next slice of culture. It's also an interesting development in the wider context of fashion gaining cultural capital and the stage as a commercial space.

Finally, check out the art work for RiRi's new album... Taking graffiti to the next lev

Image: JustJared.com

SS13: HEDI SLIMANE AND SAINT LAURENT, WHAT SAY YOU, WORLD?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Paris Fashion Week was billed as the battle between Raf and Hedi. Which designer would deliver and show us a new way to dress, a new version of what they're known for while staying true to the codes of the houses they're designing for? It was sad that it had to be a "battle" in the first place, couldn't both designers propose something unexpected and fresh without it being a head-to-head thing? Maybe those would be different propositions but choice is no bad thing.

Well, it's turned into something quite different. Raf's collection for Dior was generally much loved and without drama.  Hedi Slimane's debut collection for Saint Laurent is a different story. There was  major pre-show hype, some upset caused by super controlling behaviour from PRs, heaps of praise from Slimane's mentor and Yves Saint Laurent's partner Pierre Bergé as well as Kate Moss ("Gorge!") then lukewarm reviews from fashion editors which led to the publication last night of a slightly bizarre letter from Hedi (well, it was posted on his Twitter page) to New York Times' Cathy Horyn branding her "a stand-up comedian" as well as making sly digs at her book, her style and how Dior might give her a 2-for-1 tickets whereas "she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent". Ouch.

The whole episode has opened quite a can of worms about how Saint Laurent have handled Hedi's debut - or perhaps how Hedi himself has chosen to direct it - as well as whether it really matters commercially if a collection gets a so-so verdict from press. What would the reviews have said if editors noses hadn't been put seriously out of joint from the pre-show diktats and seating issues? Or do editors really let these things affect them? Was the collection properly good, or a stab in the dark from a menswear designer out of his depth in the womens' arena?

And what sane designer would refuse to take questions post-show from Sarah Mower of US Vogue, Suzy Menkes of the New York Times, Lisa Armstrong of the Telegraph and Laura Craik of The London Times? And why not?

We've gathered all sides of the story into one place....

THE LOVERS

Pierre Bergé: "Sublime... He respected the codes of Saint Laurent."

Diane von Furstenberg: "I completely identify with that look, and I think he did a great job"

Kate Moss: "I want it all"

Alison Mosshart: "It's the best thing ever"

Harrods' Marigay McKee told Vogue: "He delivered a slick collection fusing his contemporary silhouette with rock-meets-Seventies-inspired styles that echoed an iconic era of the house drawing heavily on the archives. This strong aesthetic reflects the continued demand for a more pared-back look, which has been prominent over the last few years - with many women buying less, and picking clever investment pieces that can be mixed and matched. The focus was very much on the cut, fit and fabrication, and this was a collection that is perfect for our customer."

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent muse: "He is our saviour... I love the fact he has the same attitude as Yves Saint Laurent, a lot of things in common with him, he understands his times totally."

THE NOT-SO-GREAT-ERS

Robin Givhan, The Daily Beast: "Slimane’s silhouette looks to be so unforgiving that it could be a financial liability to a brand trying to build its clientele"

Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian: "But the show left viewers with a hankering for more of the Slimane-stamped skinny tailoring which dominated the first few exits, and fewer of the dress-and-cape outfits. An industry who arrived at this show preparing to be scandalised at how Slimane ignored the YSL heritage left wishing he had imposed himself just a little more"

Tim Blanks, Style.com: "It seemed that witchy seduction was the agenda of the evening. A bizarre way to stake a claim to one of fashion's most unimpeachable legacies, maybe, but it felt perfectly in tune with what one could legitimately claim to be Slimane's California obsession"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph "The problem was, that like quite a bit of this collection, the accessories were slightly underwhelming... Crucially, what was lacking was the frisson of the unexpected - that challenging jolt that only a really strong show delivers"

HYPE AND CONTROL

Imran Ahmed, Business of Fashion: "It was the latest in a series of bizarre communications from a PR team whose attempts to control communication about YSL — whether coming directly from the brand itself or independent media outlets — seems obsessive...

"When we explained our thinking, namely that no designer can claim that every single collection is a commercial success, and politely declined to change the article, we were informed via email: “Don’t correct, fare [sic] enough, we won’t collaborate on any kind of project in the future"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph: "For starters, there was the seating. Or the standing, with some journalists admitted only right at the back. ("Don't worry", soothed the PRs, "you'll be standing with your peers") . Then there were the instructions about the change of name. Sorry, names"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph: "I would love to be able to watch his evolution at this house. Judging by his apparent fear of any kind of objective criticism, however, I fear I won't be allowed back"

Laura Craik, The Times- in an open letter to Hedi Slimane "All the things you seem to love and value — music, fun, sexiness — require freedom. You have yours. I have mine. Without it, we are nothing. So please, don’t ban me from your next show, because I really want to see it. We all do. We like you, even though you treat us like a bitch"

WHAT CATHY HORYN SAID

"I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons"

"And that was the problem: the collection was a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez. Mr. Slimane’s clothes lacked a new fashion spirit"

"I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years. If so, that might be an interesting perspective. But there wasn’t something new to learn here"

THE HEDI LETTER

Some have said that Hedi's twitter account could have been hacked by a stirrer and these may not be the words of the man himself. However, nearly 24 hours later no denial has been issued nor has the tweet been removed. 

From Hedi Slimane on Twitter- click to read more easily

THE TWEETS

Laura Craik ‏@LauraCraik

Had a really weird dream last night that I was in Zara circa 2008.

Jess Cartner-Morley ‏@JessC_M

Word for word RT@TeleFashion: Backstage at YSL :no questions no photographs. us: can we breathe? Pause: yes you can breathe

Jim Shi ‏@jimshi809

From hot dogs 2 Hedi, is it just me or did the fashion industry just get really, really dark & scary all of a sudden? Why all the hate? #PFW

stuart emmrich ‏@StuartEmmrichNY

Hedi Slimane's odd behavior is creating more headlines than his somewhat underwhelming first show for YSL: http://bit.ly/Padk2q#PFW

Page Six ‏@PageSix

Did Saint Laurent's Hedi Slimane refusal to seat top editors front row in Paris fuel bad reviews? http://nyp.st/PVDenB

Alexandra Shulman ‏@AShulman2

@YSL fallout an example of what happens when you try to overly control the media. Generally everyone is more generous to first collections.

susiebubble ‏@susiebubble

Is it me or has there been a lot of feuding this fashion month - upset PRs, banned journalists, open letters - thank f it's nearly over.

Images from Style.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JUNE 18th- 22nd

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Another week has whizzed by and there are plenty of developments to catch up on before the weekend...

Yves Saint Laurent outside the original store Saint Laurent (image from YSL twitter)

The news that rocked the (fashion) world so much that it was trending on Twitter on all day yesterday and this morning is Hedi Slimane's decision to change the hugely iconic YSL logo and Yves Saint Laurent moniker to SLP (i.e. Saint Laurent Paris). This isn't the first big change Slimane has brought about having already moved the brand's creative studio from Paris to LA. The outcry from the industry has been unmitigated. Here is a good example of the tone of tweet appearing on our timelines yesterday:

Fashion156.com ‏@Fashion156

#YSL rebranding to 'Saint Laurent Paris' sounds like a chain of downmarket budgets hotels. Why mess with something so iconic? thoughts?

However, Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent's partner and the person who probably has the closest emotional ties to the house, is not so worried. In an interview with L'Express he declared that the name change is "an excellent idea". Furthermore, Bergé states his confidence that Slimane can take Saint Laurent back to being "a house of creation" and to the "prestige which is at it's heart". It's interesting to note that Saint Laurent Paris was the original name the house worked under and so it is really a revisiting as opposed to a complete novelty.

Raf Simons' new menswear ads (images from dailymail.co.uk)

Paris' other newly instated big name designer is, of course, Raf Simons at Dior. There have been no shocking Dior announcements from him thus far however images of his eponymous menswear line's ad campaign were released this week and show that Raf is perhaps indulging any temptations to shock via this outlet. The imagery shows deconstructed bodies in a collage-like style. Many have called the campaign, entitled Run Fall Run, weird but I think it's quite beautiful and just what we have come to expect from Raf. Now bring on the new Dior!

Givenchy AW12 ads with Stella Tennant (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

More Autumn/ Winter campaigns are being released every day. We reported earlier in the week on Prada's look of the season and today I'd like to bring Givenchy's to your attention. Tisci favourites Stella Tennant and Joan Smalls are among those who feature in the shots inspired by "the energy of a rave".  Mert and Marcus were behind the camera and Carine Roitfeld  was styling- fashion dream team.

Gary Richardson, legendary hair colourist from Daniel Hersheson, very sadly passed away last week. LOVE magazine, with whom he had a close relationship, posted some great images of his work which we'd love to re-share...

Images from www.thelovemagazine.co.uk

As guest designers at this year's Pitti W event, taking place this week in Florence, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos were bound to pull something special out of the bag. The images from their presentation in a Florentine palazzo confirm those suspicions. The pair, who are already famed for their complex and form enhancing prints, installed a "digital kaleidoscope" at the venue which projected the prints- inspired by medieval manuscripts- onto surfaces all around. The result is an "old-meets-new celebration"which is depicted not only in the setting but in the garments themselves.

Peter Pilotto at Pitti W (image from Vogue.com/ Peter Pilotto)

Pilotto's prints on the walls of the palazzo (image from vogue.com/ Peter Pilotto)

Here's an up-close look at one of the pair's new tailored pieces at their London resort press day this week.

You know by now that we're suckers for little snippets of King Karl news so I loved these pictures The Telegraph found this week of what appeared to be the Chanel designer in a fishing boat in rough waters. Cue daydreams of Chanel SS13 being comprised of macintoshes, galoshes and gold spun fisherman beards. No such luck though as it's actually Karl impersonator Jörg Knör who regularly dresses up as Mr Lagerfeld. Oh well. 

Karl at sea images from www.telegraph.co.uk

I was sad to miss G-Shock's Maarten van der Horst vs. Sibling party last night to celebrate the launch of  the watchmaker's new collaboration with the Fashion East designers. Sadder still that I can't possibly choose a favourite between Maarten's surfer florals and Sibling's colourful animal designs. Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East founder and LOVE Editor at Large, sums it up when she says the designs "are perfect for summer" and "represent the fun spirit of Fashion East". You can get one at G-Shock's store at the Truman Brewery.

The reason I couldn't make it to G-Shock last night was because I went along to hear Melanie speak on My Daily's panel discussing the future of fashion in the digital world. She was joined by the brilliant Mary Katrantzou, LOVE Editor Alex Fury and Sasha Wilkins of LLG. It was a fascinating chat to listen in on and I learnt many things, including the fact that designers plan their catwalk looks according to Style.com's layouts so that when the pictures are up the looks are grouped together in rows of six- observe the colour coordination in this screen shot of Prada AW12.

Left tonight: My Daily editor Libby, Sasha, Alex, Melanie and Mary (image from mydaily.co.uk)

Finally, I know we're almost a week late on this but if you're NOT one of the 4 million people who's already seen Abercrombie and Fitch models dancing to Carly Rae Jepsen's Call Me Maybe" then get to it. Perfect Friday night getting ready to go out entertainment. Just beware the cheese factor is off the scale... Happy Weekend!