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Silvie Koang YOHJI YAMAMOTO Sunday, September 15, 2013 I’ve recently had the pleasure of watching a documentary titled “Notebook on Cities and Clothes” and directed by Wim Wenders. Just from the... 5

YOHJI YAMAMOTO



I’ve recently had the pleasure of watching a documentary titled “Notebook on Cities and Clothes” and directed by Wim Wenders. Just from the beginning of the movie we can see its unconventionality and its sophisticated manner of presenting the reality as if seen through the director’s eyes. The documentary was made for Parisian Pompidou Centre; it’s a real elevation! Initially, Wenders doesn’t seem to be interested in fashion; he tries to find similarities between making movies and making clothes. The main character is Yohji Yamamoto, an eminent Japanese fashion designer. He designs original and ageless costumes. He uses modified and draped blackness of new, unusual quality. His projects are full of unnamable quiescence but are dynamic at the same time. Yamamoto claims that “only Here and Now are always in fashion”. He is inspired by such brilliant photographers as August Sander because only those projects where “human beings seem real enough” are perfect for him. He is fascinated by the fact that years ago people’s clothes indicated their job, social class and status. Looking at a man, you could guess who he was and where he worked. It’s not like that now. In his opinion paradoxes are common today: “we get lost in the system of mirrors, in which we see and imitate ourselves”. “We paint the picture of ourselves and try to be similar to it”. What do you think about it?

Ostatnio miałam przyjemność obejrzeć film dokumentalny Wima Wendersa - ,,Notatki o strojach i miastach". Od pierwszej chwili filmu dostrzegamy jego niezwykłość, wyrafinowany sposób przedstawiania świata, jak gdybyśmy oglądali go oczami reżysera. Dokument ten powstał na zlecenie paryskiego Centrum Pompidou, co jest już ogromną nobilitacją. Reżyser temat mody początkowo podejmuje niechętnie, stara się odnaleźć analogię między kręceniem filmów a tworzeniem ubrań. Bohaterem filmu jest jeden z najlepszych Japońskich projektantów mody - Yohji Yamamoto. Tworzy awangardowe i ponadczasowe kreacje. Posługuje się zazwyczaj czernią, którą załamuje, drapuje stwarzając nową niepowtarzalną jakość. Jego projekty przepełnia nieokreślony spokój a jednocześnie dynamizm formy, jak mówi ,,w modzie jest tylko tu i teraz". Za idealne projekty uważa te, gdy ,,istoty ludzkie ubrane są w realność", dlatego tak bardzo lubi czerpać inspiracje z XX wiecznych portretów takich geniuszy fotografii jak August Sander. Fascynuje go fakt, że kiedyś strój określał zawód, grupę społeczną, stan majątkowy. Patrząc na człowieka mogliśmy zgadnąć kim jest i jaki zawód wykonuje. Dziś już tak nie jest. Według niego we współczesnym świecie często dochodzi do paradoksu - ,,gubimy się w systemie luster, w których odbijamy się i imitujemy samego siebie". ,,Tworzymy obraz samego siebie i staramy się być do niego podobni". Co o tym myślicie?



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